current draw
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2002
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From: Bonneau CSA
current draw
Seems I have a current draw that drains my battery pretty quick.
After checking the voltage at 2500rpm (12.21)I thought that I might have charging problems so swapped alt/reg from my 72 and read the same.Perhaps I wired it to the wrong terminals,bat and field is where I have it connected to now.I did everything I was taught for motorcycles but this ain't one of them and maybe something doesn't test the same.oh but do lord when she runs that brand new 289 runs sweeeeeeeet!!!!!!!
Maybe someone could walkthrough testing the regulator as I don't have a manual for the '82.(I know I know need one get one)Just this once.
Olddawg(Gator)
After checking the voltage at 2500rpm (12.21)I thought that I might have charging problems so swapped alt/reg from my 72 and read the same.Perhaps I wired it to the wrong terminals,bat and field is where I have it connected to now.I did everything I was taught for motorcycles but this ain't one of them and maybe something doesn't test the same.oh but do lord when she runs that brand new 289 runs sweeeeeeeet!!!!!!!
Maybe someone could walkthrough testing the regulator as I don't have a manual for the '82.(I know I know need one get one)Just this once.
Olddawg(Gator)
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 851
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From: Elizabeth City, NC
current draw
Try getting it started. While running, remove the positive lead off the battery terminal. If it continues running your charging system is working. If it dies then continue to troubleshoot the charging system. While running you should get a voltmeter reading of 13-16VDC across the battery terminals.
Russell
Russell
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 2,415
Likes: 3
From: Comox Valley, Canada
current draw
Sounds like you are not charging the battery. The readings should be 13.5-14.5vdc, especially at 2500 RPM. Maybe your wiring is screwed up, since you already tried a new/different reg and alt.
What year is the truck?
Sparky
ps
It isnt a real good idea to disconnect the battery when the truck is running. Some times it will actually blow the voltage regulator electronics or even the alt diodes. Why make problems use a voltmeter to check
What year is the truck?
Sparky
ps
It isnt a real good idea to disconnect the battery when the truck is running. Some times it will actually blow the voltage regulator electronics or even the alt diodes. Why make problems use a voltmeter to check
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 555
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current draw
Yes, what year is the truck because we can teach you how to full field the alternator to find out what's wrong. You will definately need a voltmeter. And I agree pulling terminals off while running is a no no....seen many troubles cause of it.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 39
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From: Bonneau CSA
current draw
well the truck itself is an '82.But the alternator came out of my '72.
the regulator I have on it now I just pulled from a 90 taurus.so far this is the best reading I've gotten yet @ 12.40vdc.the original alt/reg and the 72 alt/reg both tested at 12.21vdc I charged the battery all night on a trickle charge.I had 12.94 earlier this morning,and I'm fixing to check again.I appreciate the help,fellas.I did find a generic website earlier that suggests disconnecting the regulator and jumping the field/bat terminals then reading the voltage at the battery.I'm a little reluctant to do this since I'm unfamiliar with automotive testing.
Once again I really do appreciate the feedback.
the regulator I have on it now I just pulled from a 90 taurus.so far this is the best reading I've gotten yet @ 12.40vdc.the original alt/reg and the 72 alt/reg both tested at 12.21vdc I charged the battery all night on a trickle charge.I had 12.94 earlier this morning,and I'm fixing to check again.I appreciate the help,fellas.I did find a generic website earlier that suggests disconnecting the regulator and jumping the field/bat terminals then reading the voltage at the battery.I'm a little reluctant to do this since I'm unfamiliar with automotive testing.
Once again I really do appreciate the feedback.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 2,415
Likes: 3
From: Comox Valley, Canada
current draw
Wow good mix I am unsure if all these years/models/etc are compatible 
It still sounds like there is no charging on the truck. At approx 2000rpm you should see 13.5-14.5vdc, and if you turn on a big current draw like headlights, heater, etc it should drop for a second then recover to 13.5-14.5vdc.
Maybe the parts arent compatible.....I dont really know.
Sparky
I am unsure if all these years/models/etc are compatible It still sounds like there is no charging on the truck. At approx 2000rpm you should see 13.5-14.5vdc, and if you turn on a big current draw like headlights, heater, etc it should drop for a second then recover to 13.5-14.5vdc.
Maybe the parts arent compatible.....I dont really know.
Sparky
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current draw
The 82 should be a ONE PLug connector and the 72 harness should be the normal 3 seperate wires.
I'd love to see the wiring on this one.
[font color=red]Dennis
Calgary,Alberta,Canada[/font]
[link:www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html|FTEModerator]
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I'd love to see the wiring on this one.
[font color=red]Dennis
Calgary,Alberta,Canada[/font]
[link:www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html|FTEModerator]
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[font color=red]
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 39
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From: Bonneau CSA
current draw
Your correct about the 72 wiring having three seperate wires.The 82 however has only two.I looked to the 90 taurus to use the alternator off of it but it has the one plug connector that you speak of.Adapting something for use is okay by me but politically incorrect rigging is a differnt thing.I checked once again for current draw and couldn't find any problem there.Checked the battery with a load tester no problem there.So I brought the battery back up to full charge isolated it from the system and checked voltage this morning.It was back down to 10.3vdc.First rule I was taught for electrical troubleshooting was you gotta start with a good battery!
