351 motor trouble
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New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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351 motor trouble
1994 F-250 w/ 92' 351W 5spd.
So heres the problem i need some advice on.
I starts great in the morning but anytime after that it wont. I have to hold the gas pedal to the floor hard. and then after a second or two of turing over it will fire up. It will not start no matter how long i try to start it without flooring the gas pedal. why is it doing this. its EFI not carb'ed??????????
ps. it also sucks on hills trying to press 3 pedals to the floor at once with no e-brake.
Thanks in advace!!!
So heres the problem i need some advice on.
I starts great in the morning but anytime after that it wont. I have to hold the gas pedal to the floor hard. and then after a second or two of turing over it will fire up. It will not start no matter how long i try to start it without flooring the gas pedal. why is it doing this. its EFI not carb'ed??????????
ps. it also sucks on hills trying to press 3 pedals to the floor at once with no e-brake.
Thanks in advace!!!
Senior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton, AB
This is an absolute, total shot in the dark. Does your truck seem to be running very rich? Is there black smoke coming from the tailpipe when it's running and the truck is warm? Also you say the truck starts fine in the morning. Does it start fine with every cold start? Say you drive to work, and the truck sits all day, and it's cold. Does it start ok then? I'm beginning to wonder if it's your temperature sensor. Not the one for the gauge, but the one for the computer. I'm thinking that when your truck is warm, it's telling the computer that the truck is cold when it's not and it's putting the computer into cold start mode and (almost) flooding the truck. Do you know anyone with a snap-on scanner? If you hook this up, it will tell you what temperature the computer thinks the engine coolant is. If you've just driven home from work, and the scanner says the coolant is 80 degrees (for example), you can be almost certain that this sensor is bad.
Last edited by sconut1; Aug 6, 2008 at 10:03 PM. Reason: More info
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,558
Likes: 45
From: Concord, NC
You can check the codes without a scanner, all you need is a paperclip. Here are some instructions: EEC IV Self Test hookup
Just leave out the volt meter/test light and count the blinks on the check engine light. Let us know what comes up.
Just leave out the volt meter/test light and count the blinks on the check engine light. Let us know what comes up.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
When you mash the pedal while starting, it shuts off the injectors. So the engine has too much fuel in it. The question becomes where is this fuel coming from?
What I would do is pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and see if there is gas in the line. If there is, replace the regulator. The line is supposed to be dry. If that vacuum line is sucking fuel into the intake, that would explain where the extra fuel is coming from.
It's also not a bad idea to pull the codes as suggested. You may have other problems going on as well.
What I would do is pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and see if there is gas in the line. If there is, replace the regulator. The line is supposed to be dry. If that vacuum line is sucking fuel into the intake, that would explain where the extra fuel is coming from.
It's also not a bad idea to pull the codes as suggested. You may have other problems going on as well.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
So why would flooring it (shutting off the injectors) help it start? Where is the fuel coming from to start the truck?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,324
Likes: 4
From: Michigan
Andy, maybe he tries to start it and after it doesn't fire, puts his foot to the floor. IDK. Just giving ideas. Would a bad ECT throw any codes?
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ok heres what i got for codes....
fast beginning flicker:
first code: 5-5-3-5-6-5-5-5-8
than again: 5-5-3-5-6-5-5-5-8
than another code i think?: 1-1-1-7-3-2-7
than again: 1-1-1-7-3-2-7
and this truck has been my daily driver for about 3 months now!! WOW please help me out!!
fast beginning flicker:
first code: 5-5-3-5-6-5-5-5-8
than again: 5-5-3-5-6-5-5-5-8
than another code i think?: 1-1-1-7-3-2-7
than again: 1-1-1-7-3-2-7
and this truck has been my daily driver for about 3 months now!! WOW please help me out!!
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
I'd double check your codes there.
94 has 3 digit codes, I don't recall ever getting them out of numeral sequence lowest to highest. But that may just be the way you posted them?
But then I haven't used the count the flashes method in a while now either. Buy a code reader off ebay cheap. I got one for 20 bucks shipped to my door.
117 ECT sensor signal is less than the Self-Test minimum of 0.2 volts.
327 DPFE or EVP circuit below minimum voltage of 0.2 volts.
553 Air management 2 circuit failure (AM1/TAD)
558 EGR Vacuum Regulator circuit failure
565 Canister purge circuit failure
It's possible, just looking at those codes that whatever the issue is that caused code 565 may be the root of all evil or a large part of the problem perhaps. A weak or complete lack of vacuum to all the EGR controls?
94 has 3 digit codes, I don't recall ever getting them out of numeral sequence lowest to highest. But that may just be the way you posted them?
But then I haven't used the count the flashes method in a while now either. Buy a code reader off ebay cheap. I got one for 20 bucks shipped to my door.
117 ECT sensor signal is less than the Self-Test minimum of 0.2 volts.
327 DPFE or EVP circuit below minimum voltage of 0.2 volts.
553 Air management 2 circuit failure (AM1/TAD)
558 EGR Vacuum Regulator circuit failure
565 Canister purge circuit failure
It's possible, just looking at those codes that whatever the issue is that caused code 565 may be the root of all evil or a large part of the problem perhaps. A weak or complete lack of vacuum to all the EGR controls?
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
<i>thats the other biggest problem. there is no EGR, no air pump, no smog, NO emissions</i>
Oh I see, well then any and all codes are useless. None of the sensors are there so it will throw a code for them.
After thinking on it some more I was going to also add you may have a voltage problem looking at them again, a bad connection or two.........but uh.......never mind, you do have a connection problem. A bunch of them!
Oh I see, well then any and all codes are useless. None of the sensors are there so it will throw a code for them.
After thinking on it some more I was going to also add you may have a voltage problem looking at them again, a bad connection or two.........but uh.......never mind, you do have a connection problem. A bunch of them!
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
<i>yeah so i'm pretty much screwed when it gets down to it</i>
Maybe not but first.
Did it run right as it sits at any time? or did you remove what's been taken off and now it won't run or run right? Where the parts removed in a attempt to get it to run or run right?
Emissions aid it the way the motor runs and how clean and efficiently it runs but are not "necessary" per say.
The computer uses set tables to make adjustments based on information from all sensors. so removing some of the sensors changes that out come or no change occurs at all. That's also depending on engine temperature. May just drop into limp mode because of no response and so on, kind of a domino effect.
Exactly has been removed and what remains of the total system.
Maybe we can get you back on the right track if we know more about it's condition, how it came to be.
Maybe not but first.
Did it run right as it sits at any time? or did you remove what's been taken off and now it won't run or run right? Where the parts removed in a attempt to get it to run or run right?
Emissions aid it the way the motor runs and how clean and efficiently it runs but are not "necessary" per say.
The computer uses set tables to make adjustments based on information from all sensors. so removing some of the sensors changes that out come or no change occurs at all. That's also depending on engine temperature. May just drop into limp mode because of no response and so on, kind of a domino effect.
Exactly has been removed and what remains of the total system.
Maybe we can get you back on the right track if we know more about it's condition, how it came to be.
