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I am starting the process of building a stroker and contacted mike herman at H&H machine shop and he said even for my application(see gallery) that a 3 5/16 bore would not have any cooling problems. I may have to go that route as my spare block is already .060 over and has a good ridge in it. The sad part is the engine only has about 25,000 miles on the rebuild! Just goes to show how crappy oil was back then.
My engine guy (who is more machinest than mechanic) told me it was not only the oil....
Oil was only part of the problem back then. The largest problem by far and away was the selection of ring material. Now you know why I am searching desperately for a moly ring. Anything else, especially a chrome ring will wear the relatively soft block abnormally fast. Once you go to a moly ring you can then use todays best antiscuff synthetic oil full of zinc and phos that will prevent this.
We are still looking for moly rings if anyone knows a source.
Thanks
"Joe Gibbs recently came out with a syn oil made for old restoration vehicles. Just for us older cars. I will be stocking it and can have it drop shipped any where."
How does your engine guy know that there is pitting? Is this from a sonic test, or is it stuff he can see thru the deck? They aren't going to be nice, smooth surfaces at all, they look downright jagged on most I've seen. He may be mistaking '40's casting technology for damage.
has anyone tried upgrading their oil filtering by adding a modern filter locator and rerouting the oil passages? I was talking to my flatty guy and he says its like 95% filtration and its almost a free upgrade (except the cost of filter and modern relocator and tubing)