Replacing Seals on Front Axle
#1
Replacing Seals on Front Axle
I am getting ready to replace all the seals on the front axle. The two that cap the end of the tube have been shot for some time. And also since replacing the ball joints on the passenger side I must of nicked one of the seals for the auto locking hub as well. So that is the main driver of this. I need the hubs to auto lock as the rims I have now have a cover on them. I don't want to leave the hubs locked either for fuel mpg.
Anyone have any tips or know of any specialty tools I might need to pull the axles and replace all the seals? I am pretty sure that I need to drain the front pumpking and remove a retaining clip to slide the axles out is that correct?
Anyone have any tips or know of any specialty tools I might need to pull the axles and replace all the seals? I am pretty sure that I need to drain the front pumpking and remove a retaining clip to slide the axles out is that correct?
#2
If you replaced the ball joints on the passenger side, didn't you already have to pull the main axle seal and remove the axle? Every write up I have seen for replacing the ball joints has pulled the axle, maybe you found a way around that. The factory service manual DVD I have does not show any clips in the differential, just says once you remove the hub bearing and expose the axle stub you will then remove the main axle seal and the axle will slide out. Here is a write up with pics. Hopefully this will help.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ll-joints.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ll-joints.html
#3
OOps I hope there werent clips... I just pryed the axle shaft out after taking the unit bearing out... It didn't slide out, I had to pry mine. use a 1.25 pipe x 8" long with a floor flange less than 3.80" OD to drive the knuckle seal on. Thats what I did... I just did the knuckle and tube seals on each side.
#5
well that just sucks, I was right there when I did the ball joints. I didn't pull them when I did the ball joints as I thought there was a C clip or retaining ring in the diff. Now knowing that I was but two hits with the hammer to get it done.
I guess this next weekend I will have to pull it apart and get them changed. Thanks for the link.
I guess this next weekend I will have to pull it apart and get them changed. Thanks for the link.
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#9
Threre is a picture somewhere that is made with the above parts mentioned. I went down to a local driveline shop and paid the guy 10 bucks cash and went on my way. Figured that it would be about 20 into it by the time I get the parts and only use it once. Time will tell if I stay a head or not. Next time it might be 20 bucks for the 2 minutes it takes them to pound it on.