ok i have been working on my truck for a while now and i have finaly narrowed down the main problems. i have a turbo leak i knew of but i also ended up finding oil in the driver side up pipe so instead of trying to track down which cylinder it is im jus replaceing the seals on all of them on the driver side......<TABLE width="100%" border=0 itxtvisited="1"><TBODY itxtvisited="1"><TR itxtvisited="1"><TD vAlign=top itxtvisited="1">ok im going to replace both the injector o rings and the valve guide seals.. according to the dealer the intake and exhaust valve guide seals r the same,this didnt sound right to me.....is this correct? also is there any special things i need to do here? or is it like a gas motor simple pull out replace,put in? valve adjustments? oil priming in the injectors? ect. ect. o also im doin this heads on,,,,,,, useing the comprsor adaptor on the glow plug hole.compressed air in the cylinder so the valves dont drop. also can any one walk me thru doing a compression test? like step by step.....i jus got a compression tester and wanna make sure that the oil isnt comeing from worn rings.? im thinkin its an exhaust valve guide seal because there is so much oil comeing out the cylinder that i would think it would burn otherwise. anyhow thnx everyone and hope after this i can get her together and runnin.
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I don't know but I will bump you to the top.

Good luck.

 

Ditto, good question that I would like to know the answer to. I need to get in there and check the torque specs anyway.

 

Make sure you clock the motor at the mark on the main pully & the pointer on the CPS before you install & torque the push rods & rockers..

If you have a tester ,, install it & turn it over ,,,

You can use your addapter with regulated Air through a .040 hole ,,set the cylinder at TDC & listen for where the air leaks out (Intake, exaust ,or crankcase ),,

that will tell you where to look (rings or valves )

There is a tool made for a leakdown test if you are interested ...

Look here...

A compression tester will tell you the over all condition only....


On the injectors ,,,

look here ....

The only other special tool's are a spring compressor , a torque wrench ,& something to remove the oil from the cylinders....

 

ok good deal thnx.

 

ok update.... i got the injector o rings done today,not too bad of a job,,,but,,,,, i now have an intresting problem.i suctioned most of the oil out the cylinders before putting in the injectors and before the injectors went in jus to make sure i turned her over to let the small remainder purge out of the glow plug and injector holes....only problem is i forgot to disconnect my fuel pump,so ALOT of fuel went into the cylinders and when it turned over it sounded horrible and did a nice fuel,oil mix spray all over the place.it was really bad.but i did more suction put the imjectors in and went to purge again only with the glow plugs out.the response was much better and i dont here anything odd from the engine turning over IE. broken rods or crank or rattleing or pingin,,,, but i was noticeing during the purge my 2nd 3rd and 4th cylinders (driver side only i jus dont have the fireing order in front over me right now) were purgeing out nicely with ALOT of compression. however i didnt get the same effect from the 1st cylinder...in fact it appears to me that there is very little compression.so i decided that was enuff for one day and went ahead and ended the day on a bad note.....but....i know i have oil getting from one of thesse cylinders to the turbo,the o rings on the injectors all looked ok but i havnt made it into the valve guide seals yet.could this be y my number 1 cylinder isnt getting the compresion it should?or am i looking at the bad side of this like cracked piston or something like that.....should i jus go ahead and start looking for a short block now cuz im screwed?

 

Are you going to run a compression check before you tackle the seals? If you've got a compression issue on the #2 cylinder (front drivers side), do you have a plan B in case the air compressor trick holding the valves doesn't work?

 

Plan b is put that piston at top dead center. The valve can't drop in that way. All the valve guide seals are identical. They just pull off and put the new one on. . . very simple. Valve spring is tricky. . . make sure you get a good quality valve spring compressor. Be careful not to drop the two keepers that hold the valve in into the head while pulling them out. You really should do a compression check first. . . then you can pressurize the cylinders to hear where your leaks are coming from. Otherwise you might be chasing your tail. Your number one cylinder that appears to have less compression by cranking it. . . could be just less fluids inside. Let us know how it goes.
Timmy

 

im now looking at getting a new motor.i jus dont wanna deal with it.as for the finger over the GP hole i can actually hold my finger over it. thats how low the compression is.its pretty bad.so im thiniking i may have cracked the piston when i first went to purge the cylinders.it sounded pretty bad when i first did it and exploded oil every where cuz there was so much oil in the cylinders.i did the front one first (the one with no compression) so i think it had the most oil in it,but i wasnt thinking right either so when i went to purge i still had the fuel pump connected so it dumped fuel in it.....i was having a REALLY REALLY off day. so i can get a brand new (refurbished) motor complete from my buddy for 2800.he is hooking me up big time.turbo and everything....IDM wirin harness included with up pipes too.complete drop in turn key motor for 2800 with no core exchange. but i dont have that type of money up front so im wondering do u think i could get 2500 for the motor with an unknown leak of compression from cylinder 2 and a brand new turbo? i would like to get 2500 for it jus wondering if yall thought that is possible.
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Did you think to check the pushrods on the bad cylinder ..maybe a broken rocker?....

 

I hope you change your oil soon. You probably have diesel fuel in it now.

 

Man i really think you are overthinking this by wanting to just put a new motor in so fast. use a small wooden dowel that will go down into the injector cup hole, when you crank the motor over and it stops rising and begins to fall, (BY HAND), then put it back at TDC, the piston is within hundreths of an inch from the valves, and they will not drop. The valves, the springs, the seals, and the reatainers are all the same for all the valves. Put new seals in (oiled up on the inside), and then once you have that done do your compression test on the engine cranking it over by the starter.

 

ok... this is what is goin on now.everything is back together. new seals on.the push rods and rockers were fine not cracked or bent. the piston will not come to TDC.it falls short and wont come all the way up. also i did get a buddy to bring by his comp tester todat and its under 100 psi. and it doesnt build up.its sitting at around 40-50 psi at peak.so im deffinatly screwed.my buddy has a guy in town who will do a full rebuild for 3500. new pistons rods bearings and everything.the good thi ng is i dont have coolant in the oil so i dont think its the block.i think the block is fine.im also thinkin a bent connecting rod.(since the piston wont come all the way up to TDC) guess i had alot more oil in the cylinder than i thought when i turned her.thanks for all the advice to guys i appreciate it.if yall know anyone who rebuilds the motors for cheap and still does a good job i would appreciate it. im in GA so something not to far for shipping costs would be good.again yall thanks for the good advice and hope everything works out for this.

 

So when you cranked the cylinder, you had the injector and the glow plug installed, and you cranked it over by the starter? You cant bend a rod just barring the engine over by hand.

 

when i first did it it was injector in glow plug out,,,and it was turned by the starter....not by hand. yea,,,,i know,,,, i cant tell u what i was thinking