lockers and towing
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2008
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lockers and towing
i have a 93 f250 with the d50 ttb up front and a 10.25ff rear and i want to put a detroit locker in the rear and one up front but what i want to know is i have the auto hubs up front and if i weld the spiders will it be fine on the street while they are unlocked or is it going to bind up in the corners while making turns it only has 285/75/16 michelins on it and wont see any bigger the motor is the 7.5l straight pipe and a k&n filter and thats all. the biggest trailer i haul is a 20ft 10k camper. thanks
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
Welding the spiders is a bad idea, only do so if you never intend to turn corners with it in 4 wheel again, even it the dirt.
If you just want it for straight line race / pulling it would work but the first time you forget and turn the auto hubs will explode.
Then you'll replace them with manual hubs, if they hold together the U-joint will blow up. If you upgrade to stronger u joints the axle shafts themselfs will snap off near the spline end. Of course you can buy stronger axles for that too.
If you get all that to hold together then spiders will blow into pieces on ya riping everything left in the box to shreds with it!
All that time and money spent you could have just bought a air locker or something equivalent for the front end and been very happy with it.
10k 20 foot camper? wow! ours is a 30 foot and is just under 7k, lots of that weight is the large slideout it has. Yours must be really built to be that heavy. Or you got to much stuff in it! lol
If you just want it for straight line race / pulling it would work but the first time you forget and turn the auto hubs will explode.
Then you'll replace them with manual hubs, if they hold together the U-joint will blow up. If you upgrade to stronger u joints the axle shafts themselfs will snap off near the spline end. Of course you can buy stronger axles for that too.
If you get all that to hold together then spiders will blow into pieces on ya riping everything left in the box to shreds with it!
All that time and money spent you could have just bought a air locker or something equivalent for the front end and been very happy with it.
10k 20 foot camper? wow! ours is a 30 foot and is just under 7k, lots of that weight is the large slideout it has. Yours must be really built to be that heavy. Or you got to much stuff in it! lol
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 658
Likes: 2
the first time you forget and turn the auto hubs will explode.
Then you'll replace them with manual hubs, if they hold together the U-joint will blow up. If you upgrade to stronger u joints the axle shafts themselfs will snap off near the spline end. Of course you can buy stronger axles for that too.
If you get all that to hold together then spiders will blow into pieces on ya riping everything left in the box to shreds with it!
Then you'll replace them with manual hubs, if they hold together the U-joint will blow up. If you upgrade to stronger u joints the axle shafts themselfs will snap off near the spline end. Of course you can buy stronger axles for that too.
If you get all that to hold together then spiders will blow into pieces on ya riping everything left in the box to shreds with it!
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2008
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ya after the tanks and huntin gear it comes in about 93ish but the front is what im concerned about cause where i go campin and huntin its pretty straight but like about a 1/8 mile long hill at like 30deg and muddy and rutty and i thought it would be alright with just 33s i have the michelin ltx m/s its not aggressive at all and im sure the rear 10.25 can handle being welded and towing to if i dont go with the detroit what do you all think
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2008
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I feel i need to lock it cause i had a 99 silverado with a ford 44 front and auburns front and rear and i had to use a winch to get up the hill after a small rain so i figured i was going to do 60/14 combo and spools but grenaded the t-case and tranny playin so i really want just traction and good looks for this truck
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
That would be a bad assumption, you can't tow on the street with an axle that doesn't have a diff, something will break the first turn you take. The only option I see here is switchable lockers, everything else leaves you stuck on the hill or stranded long before you get to the hill.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Dan is right about what will happen if you weld the front. However, before you did anything to the truck, the very first thing I would get rid of is the crappy auto hubs. They are unreliable, and they WILL break on you when you need them. Ditch them before they get you stuck.
Once you have upgraded (and it is an upgrade) to manual hubs, I have heard of some guys welding the front and then only locking one hub. This still allows you to turn, but you're obviously only pulling with one front wheel. An ideal solution is a limited slip in the front. This is what most multi-purpose offroad trucks use.
As Paul says, you absolutely cannot tow anything with a welded rear. It's not if you break something, it's when. Even a detroit locker is not recommended for towing, esp. with that much weight. There are some nice selectable lockers that are limited slip until you activate them and then they become lockers. I don't know if they're available for the 10.25" though.
You need to do more research before you spend any money on this.
Once you have upgraded (and it is an upgrade) to manual hubs, I have heard of some guys welding the front and then only locking one hub. This still allows you to turn, but you're obviously only pulling with one front wheel. An ideal solution is a limited slip in the front. This is what most multi-purpose offroad trucks use.
As Paul says, you absolutely cannot tow anything with a welded rear. It's not if you break something, it's when. Even a detroit locker is not recommended for towing, esp. with that much weight. There are some nice selectable lockers that are limited slip until you activate them and then they become lockers. I don't know if they're available for the 10.25" though.
You need to do more research before you spend any money on this.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
I would go with Warn premiums. They were OEM for Ford for a long time. Milemarkers are also good. Make sure you get the right ones for your axle - if you have a Dana 50, you need to get the bigger ones. The Dana 44 hubs are much smaller.