When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am in need of a rear drive shaft for a 78 f150 4x4 shortbed but I have not been able to find one at a reasonable price new ($480) and I have been unable to find a used one does anyone know of a place that has one I have been looking online but no help i checked carpart.com but when I call they don't have what I need thanks the shaft length from yoke to yoke is 54.5 that is with a 4 inch lift kit
An option may be to find one from a reg. cab long box 4x4-alot more around than the short boxes.
Then get it shortened to fit. Shortening is cheap and easy for a driveshaft shop.
Or find a reputable driveshaft builder, they can make all new, or use some of your old parts if they aren't worn out.
Should be an easy job for a machinist with the right equipment.
I have to second Thunderjet, get one from a long bed and have it shortened. A friend of mine just had the exact thing done by a shop for a little over a hundred plus tax.
It's possible a new original can be found, but I need to know exactly which manual transmission you have. If it's a 4 speed, there are two possibilities.
Look on the Warranty Plate, located on the left door face below the latch for the TRANS code...post it here.
I'll see if I can find a new original once you post the info (I've found several before for other members).
i have a good driveshaft out of my 79 f250 that was too short with my lift. i can measure and if interested i'd make you a hell of a deal on it, like free. its out of a long bed auto with 203 transfercase. if is too long i'll have it cut down and ship it to you. you pay the 20 bux to shorten and the shipping and its yours. takes a day to get it shortened. the guy i have do mine owns a jeep shop and he makes all his own shafts. he did mine, front and rear and they are better than factory strength wise.
I checked the plate on the door it said trans code "G" not sure if that is the code you needed, I really need the whole setup because I slung the whole thing out going down the road about 60 mph and nothing is reusable on the old shaft, it had a cv joint at the transfer case I am not sure if that was original or not and the guy at the machine shop said he could build me one but he had to buy each piece individually and it was going to be at least 400 dollars I have not given the long bed shaft much thought just because of having to shorten and and a different slip yoke on it, whichever way is going to be the best way works for me if the guy can shorten it and make it like my old shaft was for cheap than I am all for it, I am just running out of options and really need to finish the truck I appreciate all the help, just the best direction to take that will be the cheapest and best quality, the measurement from yoke to yoke is 54 1/2 inches if that helps, like I said when I lost my shaft all I had left was a yoke at the transfer case and the yoke at the rear end. Thanks
the rear shaft had a cv joint? is it at some crazy angle or something? i can get a driveshaft cut down to the running length you need from mine, but it aint gonna have a cv. mine has 10" rear lift and i dont have a cv just a slip-yoke and 2 u-joints. like i said if thats good with you its $20 for the driveshaft cut and re-welded and whatever the shipping is and its yours. im not looking to make anything on it, just get rid of some extra crap and help a fellow ford guy out.
the slip yoke on the autos is different than the manuals so he would have to weld the slip yoke for a manual on the shaft I talked to the machinist that I took my old one too and he said that it was not worth the hassle to deal with using a shaft out of an auto because of having to add the spined end to the shaft but if your guy can make it work and work with the original slip yoke for a manual transmission I am all for it I have got to buy another slip yoke anyway, thanks for the help and let me know
huh thats weird both my shafts were the same spline and u-joints. the original shaft was for an auto and the other came out of a 4 speed truck. i didnt see any difference other than the length. i'll have to ask him and see what he says.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.