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Tell me if I am right. Does the red and white wires that go the the firewall off of the ignition control box hook up to the ignition switch hot and the ground
Perhaps a wiring diagram would be helpful. I went out and looked and it is a red w/ blue stripe and a white wiring. So they both go to the ignition switch is so what current do they get and when like when the key is on and when it is cranking are they both + wires .
Okay, This is the part where I need you you to e-mail me directly and I in turn reply with the Ignition switch continuity test.
So you in turn can print it and refer to it when you use your Multi-meter on it.
>Perhaps a wiring diagram would be helpful. I went out and
>looked and it is a red w/ blue stripe and a white wiring.
>So they both go to the ignition switch is so what current do
>they get and when like when the key is on and when it is
>cranking are they both + wires .
>
>Thanks for your help Brian
>:-X11
The white wire needs 12 volts when the ignition switch is in "start" and the red/blue wire needs 12 volts when the switch is in "run".
If I remember correctly the white wire retards the timing for start-up and the red/blue wire is 12 volts to the ignition module for normal running.
The diagram is generic but pretty much correct The ballast resistor is actually a wire running from the ignition switch to a splice by the firewall in front of the drivers knee area.
It is pink with a black stripe, well normally it is a burnt black color from the heat
Since you are installing this engine in a former diesel powered truck it most likely wont have this wire. So get a ballast resistor from a chrysler product, that is about 1.3 to 1.7 ohms. That will drop the voltage to the coil down to 7-9 volts for constant running.