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Am working on a 50 Ford tudor, original flattie and having a hard time figuring out a low power, stutter issue with it as well as a hard start issue. Not a truck, granted, but I am hoping you guys can help me out. I am not that familiar with these motors so looking for some expert advice. Carb, fuel pump have been rebuilt. Points, cap, rotor, wires, plugs,coil are recent. Vac diaphram seems to be working on dist. Actually have 2 issues.
First is that after the car has set for a period of time (basically cold start...whether a few hours or days) it doesn't want to start without a little shot of fuel directly into the carb. Once that is done, it fires and works fine with the manual choke.
Secondly, once warmed up the car acts like timing isn't advancing or carb is off somehow...acts like it is "restricted" and doesn't want to wind like it should, just kinda lays there. Not extreme (no backfire through the carb or anything, just laying way down).
This was my Dad's last toy before he died and am trying to get it respectable as a driver. No hot rod, just a nice basically stock driver. Please help. Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
Sounds like a vacuum leak. Once it is warm, and acting up, try giving it 1/2-choke, see if it runs better. Either that or the float setting is way low, not getting enough gas.
Now that you mention it, adding part choke does seem to help out a little bit but doesn't cure it entirely. Lines to the dist (hard line) and soft line to wipers seems fine. Any other areas I should look at (other than carb base mount and the usual suspect intake manifold, etc on most engines)? Thought float setting was right when the rebuild was done but have always wondered with the hard start issue. May need to tear it apart and recheck. Any other ideas?
how old is the fuel and are tank and lines clean and unrestricted? did you change fuel filter? rubber line to wipers may be dry at bend to connect to wiper motor.
Mike,
Thanks for posting, I am in a similar situation, except mine is an old truck. I inherited it from my Dad last year and now I am trying to get her running.
I will be watching what advice you get in this thread and trying what applies to me. I am another flathead newbie.
Cap the connection at the manifold for the wipers. The line to the distributor is fine to leave connected. See if it runs better. If not, with it idling, take an UNLIT propane torch, open it a fair amount (not too much), and run the nozzle along the manifold surfaces, and at the base of the carb. When it smooths out, you'll know where the leak is.
Cap the connection at the manifold for the wipers. The line to the distributor is fine to leave connected. See if it runs better. If not, with it idling, take an UNLIT propane torch, open it a fair amount (not too much), and run the nozzle along the manifold surfaces, and at the base of the carb. When it smooths out, you'll know where the leak is.
This car doesn't have an automatic by any chance?
Never have used a propane torch...not a bad idea...and alot neater than using carb cleaner, etc. Car is stocker 3 on the tree with fresh fuel, etc (and I know my Dad had the tank down to clean, seal, etc. so believe all is fine there but that was all of a sudden a long time ago). Figured I would just plug the vac lead to the wiper for the purpose of diagnostics (fancy term for trial and error...). I do appreciate the input alot...have always preached check the basics to anyone asking me for advice...sounds like I should listen!
Mike,
Thanks for posting, I am in a similar situation, except mine is an old truck. I inherited it from my Dad last year and now I am trying to get her running.
I will be watching what advice you get in this thread and trying what applies to me. I am another flathead newbie.
Jim....glad you are onboard! Feel free to post what you have ??? on too...we can help each other out (with the help of these fine gentlemen). Again, thanks guys for all...it is great to have a sight where we can help each other out and keep a great icon motor alive and kickin! I am pretty well versed on the SBF and my brother is pushing hard to just swap one...but I want the flattie in it alive and well but be forewarned...once we get it sorted out..I might just want to ask stupid questions about Stromberg 97's (?), Edelbrock heads, Smitty mufflers, 12V conversions, full-racer cam's, etc! Nah, nothing too fancy..but headers and some good sounding duals (man do those motors sound awesome when it is right), dumped a bit in the butt, get the skirts back on, hmmmm.....first thing first.
Jim....glad you are onboard! Feel free to post what you have ??? on too...we can help each other out (with the help of these fine gentlemen). Again, thanks guys for all...it is great to have a sight where we can help each other out and keep a great icon motor alive and kickin! I am pretty well versed on the SBF and my brother is pushing hard to just swap one...but I want the flattie in it alive and well but be forewarned...once we get it sorted out..I might just want to ask stupid questions about Stromberg 97's (?), Edelbrock heads, Smitty mufflers, 12V conversions, full-racer cam's, etc! Nah, nothing too fancy..but headers and some good sounding duals (man do those motors sound awesome when it is right), dumped a bit in the butt, get the skirts back on, hmmmm.....first thing first.
That's a lot of work... I can appreciate you want to keep it in the family, but your best bet is to sell to me, cheap, and save the hassle....
Have you checked to see that it's actually advancing the timing using a timing light? Also the distributor if I remember correct takes the "ported" vacuum so you need to be sure it's hooked up correctly.
Not wanting to fire cold almost sounds like the carb is possibly leaking down inside, maybe a bad power valve letting the fuel bowl empty out. Let it sit a day or so and then take off one of the bowl plugs that you remove to take the jets out, and see if much gas drains out.
Have you checked to see that it's actually advancing the timing using a timing light? Also the distributor if I remember correct takes the "ported" vacuum so you need to be sure it's hooked up correctly.
Not wanting to fire cold almost sounds like the carb is possibly leaking down inside, maybe a bad power valve letting the fuel bowl empty out. Let it sit a day or so and then take off one of the bowl plugs that you remove to take the jets out, and see if much gas drains out.
Will look into that. Have given thought to the bowl emptying (thus needing to add fuel). Distributor has ported vacuum, hard lined from intake (looks OEM) and I can hear the diaphram when moving the plate in the dist. and it will hold vacuum using the scientific fingertip measuring tool. I have a stupid question. Will a conventional timing light work on a 6V system? My suspicion is yes but have never tried it. The car has been converted (near as I can tell) to neg ground. Neg cable to head, neg lead from coil to dist? Between 6V, generator and positive ground this stuff is all foreign to me so forgive my ignorance. Am I on the right track? Oh, kinda related...have a factory clock and AM radio to install in the car. If it has been converted as I think to neg ground, anything I need to know about hooking them up? There doesn't seem to be any wiring there for them and the car had blockout plates in both places. Thanks again!
I fear someone just hooked up the battery backwards. There is no advantage to changing to 6v neg ground. Not sure the stock regulator will like that, either.
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