RECENTLY MY TRUCK STARTED HAVING PROBLEMS CRANKING AND TO TOP IT ALL OFF MY BATTERY KEEPS RUNNING DOWN. I HAVE REPLACED THE BATTERY, THE ALTERNATOR, THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR, THE SOLENOID SWITCH, THE BATTERY CABLES, AND I ALSO USED A TESTING LIGHT ON THE FUSE BOX AND VARIOUS WIRES AND I STILL CANNOT FIND THE PROBLEM. I TOOK IT TO A MECHANIC LAST WEEK AND HE PUT IT ON A DIANOSTICS MACHINE AND COULD ONLY NARROW THE PROBLEM SOURCE DOWN TO A LOOSE WIRE CONNECTION ON THE ALTERNATOR. THE TRUCK WORKED FOR 3 DAYS THEN IT BEGAN TO HAVE THE SAME PROBLEMS, I TIGHTENED THE WIRES, RECHARGED THE BATTERY AND STILL NOTHING. SOMEBODY PLEEEAAASSSEEE HEPL ME.

 

Well I will try and help......just need to know what year of truck??

Sparky

 

>
Edited for easier reading

RECENTLY MY TRUCK STARTED HAVING PROBLEMS CRANKING AND TO
>TOP IT ALL OFF MY BATTERY KEEPS RUNNING DOWN. I HAVE
>REPLACED THE BATTERY, THE ALTERNATOR, THE VOLTAGE
>REGULATOR, THE SOLENOID SWITCH, THE BATTERY CABLES, AND I
>ALSO USED A TESTING LIGHT ON THE FUSE BOX AND VARIOUS WIRES AND I STILL CANNOT FIND THE PROBLEM. I TOOK IT TO A MECHANIC LAST WEEK AND HE PUT IT ON A DIANOSTICS MACHINE AND COULD ONLY NARROW THE PROBLEM SOURCE DOWN TO A LOOSE WIRE CONNECTION ON THE ALTERNATOR. THE TRUCK WORKED FOR 3 DAYS THEN IT BEGAN TO HAVE THE SAME PROBLEMS, I TIGHTENED THE WIRES, RECHARGED THE BATTERY AND STILL NOTHING. SOMEBODY
>PLEEEAAASSSEEE HEPL ME.



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[font color=red]Dennis

FTE Assistant Administrator
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[font color=blue]78 F-150 429CJ,Silver,Explorer Pkg.
64 1/2 Mustang Pre-World's Fair Car #8092
68-Mustang 289 2v-Sunlit Gold
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Thanks Dennis but my ears still hurt from the yelling!
Russell
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[updated:LAST EDITED ON 12-Aug-02 AT 12:09 PM (EST)]sparky,my truck is 1984 f-150 3/4 ton.

 

>>
>Edited for easier reading
>
>RECENTLY MY TRUCK STARTED HAVING PROBLEMS CRANKING
>AND TO
>>TOP IT ALL OFF MY BATTERY KEEPS RUNNING DOWN. I HAVE
>>REPLACED THE BATTERY, THE ALTERNATOR, THE VOLTAGE
>>REGULATOR, THE SOLENOID SWITCH, THE BATTERY CABLES, AND I
>>ALSO USED A TESTING LIGHT ON THE FUSE BOX AND VARIOUS WIRES AND I STILL CANNOT FIND THE PROBLEM. I TOOK IT TO A MECHANIC LAST WEEK AND HE PUT IT ON A DIANOSTICS MACHINE AND COULD ONLY NARROW THE PROBLEM SOURCE DOWN TO A LOOSE WIRE CONNECTION ON THE ALTERNATOR. THE TRUCK WORKED FOR 3 DAYS THEN IT BEGAN TO HAVE THE SAME PROBLEMS, I TIGHTENED THE WIRES, RECHARGED THE BATTERY AND STILL NOTHING. SOMEBODY
>>PLEEEAAASSSEEE HEPL ME.
>
>
>
>http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion/2cents.gif
>
>[font color=red]Dennis
>
>FTE Assistant Administrator
>[/font]
>
>[link: motorhaven.autoanything.com|How YOU Can Support This Site]
>
>http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion/canada_flag_animated.gif
>
>[link:www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion/Mil1ion.html|My
>Website,"North Of The 49th"]
>
>[link:www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html|Club FTE]
>http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion/Minimorleytruck.JPG
>[font color=blue]78 F-150 429CJ,Silver,Explorer Pkg.
>64 1/2 Mustang Pre-World's Fair Car #8092
>68-Mustang 289 2v-Sunlit Gold
>[/font]
i need more than two cents

 

>sparky,my truck is 1984 f-150 3/4 ton.

Ah one of those "new-fangled" models
Ok did you clean the starter mounting bolts, engine block and starter case really good???? This is where the starter gets its ground.
Did you clean where the battery cables, both positive and negative connect???? They need to be shiney clean.
How about the wire from the alternator to the starter relay (battery positive side) is it corroded internally???
Do you have a little over 13 volts at the battery positive when the trucks is idling with everything electrical turned off??
You also should have over 13 volts at about 1500rpm with everything on.
For the drain on the battery...do you have any accesories powered when the truck is off, like a clock?? Not like it will drain the battery but it will screw up this next test. So make sure everything is off
Disconnect the battery negative and hook a 12volt test light between the negative wire and the battery negative post. If the light comes on you have a "parasitic" draw on the battery, this is bad
Now remove fuses till the light goes out. The fuse that kills the light is powering the problem circuit.
If none of the fuses kill the light, then disconnect the alternator then the voltage regulator. If one of these kills the light it is the problem. I know you said they were changed but it wouldnt be the first time a "bad" one was purchased
Good luck and let us know how you make out.

Sparky