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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Pumpkin probloms

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Old Aug 1, 2008 | 01:28 PM
  #1  
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From: Wahpeton ND
Pumpkin probloms

Hey the oil in my diff is about the color of asphalt and think now is a good time to change it.
What is the proper sequence for pulling axles and the pinion on a 9"
is there any lash issues to wory about?
How bout special tools for pulling the axles.
thanks for any info.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2008 | 02:45 PM
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From: Mddl A MexCans
Sorry I cant help with info but the rear in mine is making some noises that have the sound of trouble on the way. So I'm thrilled this was posted and looking fwd to the details that follow. BOL
 
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Old Aug 1, 2008 | 03:10 PM
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Jack up and support the rear, remove wheels and brake drums, remove the 4 backing plate nuts using a deep socket through the hole in the axle flange, pry or slide hammer the axles out, inspect the bearing and seal on each, remove the drive shaft "U" bolts, remove rear "U" joint from pinion flange and hang rear end of drive shaft up out of the way, remove the 3rd member nuts leaving two top ones on a couple threads, pry the 3rd member forward with an oil pan beneath to catch the goo, remove the two remaning nuts and remove the 3rd member, clean and inspect everything reassemble in reverse order. New gasket and copper washers are highly recommended. While it's apart you might want to install a drain plug.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2008 | 03:16 PM
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Gotta run, but if I've re-geared my 9" successfully, anyone can. No special tools needed besides maybe a torque wrench. In a nut shell: Pull the axles, drop the driveshaft, and pull the chunk. I had a hard time getting the compu-idiot parts stores to get me the right gaskets for the wheel flanges. And check the gear lash while it's apart.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2008 | 07:51 PM
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I think I might offer a little different order of things than Rich.

After securing the front wheels, I would lift the rear and get it on jack stands, drop the DS and loosen the chunk and start it draining. Pull the tires drums and axles, go back and pull the chunk. Now go back to the inspection of the axles and bearings.

The gasket is thin paper and lots of folk use RTV instead. 4 bottles of 90w gear oil should do the refill, stick the new seals in and return the chunk, axles, drums and wheels, load the oil and you are good to go.

You should be able to pull this off in a couple hours or less.

I have seen several rears without the copper washers, don't know how critical they are to be in place.

my 2


John
 
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Old Aug 1, 2008 | 10:22 PM
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Whats with the copper washers in the rearend?
Ive got a 1/2" drain plug Im going to install.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2008 | 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by flipklos
Whats with the copper washers in the rearend?
Ive got a 1/2" drain plug Im going to install.
They are little washers on the perimeter bolts of the center section.


John
 
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Old Aug 2, 2008 | 08:22 PM
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From: San Diego CA
If you use RTV instead of a new gasket you can get away without the copper washers. If your going for a resoration and don't plan on swapping gears or messing with it ever again get the gasket and copper washers. You can do it in any order you want as long as the axles come out before the 3rd member. I'm not as young as I used to be and my body feels the abuses of my youth so I try to crawl under just once.
 
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