My vent window frames in my 65 CC were badly rusted out...I found one complete assembly for the passenger side that was in good shape on e-bay, and one NOS black frame without the glass here in Portland via e-bay. I had a glass shop take my existing glass and put in in the new frame for 30 bucks...and now it's ready to go back into the metal piece that the window and frame pivot in...but how do get the old parts that are riveted to the bottom of the metal frame out and onto the new window and frame? There's an tear dropped shapped piece that fits at the top of the pin that the frame pivots on...is it possible to get that off without removing the rivets from the frame? I looked here for an old thread for answers but no help....
thanks!

 

I may have answered my own question...the pin that the vent window pivots on has grooves in it...the tear dropped shaped piece can only go on (and off) of the pivot post one exact way...I think I got it backed off and now will install the old frame on the new vent window frame....

 

if you have questions about reassembling the door...holler...its a slow ordeal...and the outer lip of the vent frame rubber does indeed sit on the door skin...reason I say that is I have in years past seen trucks with new rubber improperly installed.



- cs65

 

The vent window; has two screws vicinty the A post portion of the door frame; holding it on; also the bottom portion nrar the division bar has one if not two screws in it. I would also recommend lossing the division bar and tilt it away from the vent window to allow more movement. I did a tech article on replacing the entire door glass system acouple years ago.
Hope this helps....

Mitch

 

I found your step by step from a couple years back here Mitch...very helpful...I'm waiting on the vent window rubber andthen I'll put the parts back together...it's a tough fit to get that division bar back up on top of the ledge where the two screws hold it at the bottom...I haven't bent the new channel around the window yet as you have described in your old post...it looks pretty straight forward although I may be missing the screw that holds the bottom of the vent window assembly to the division bar...hopefully I can find something that will work there. Did you use any glue behind the vent window weather strip? Is there a screw that holds the door weatherstrip? I seem to recall something when I pulled all this apart 6 months back..

 

There is an article in the D.C. catalog on how to install the door and v window weatherstrip, not very helpful in repairing. If no catalog, it's in their online catalog page 100-101.


When I replaced the V window seal, C1TZ-8121450-PR (A) in D.C. catalog, had to be mindfull when it came to drilling out the original rivets; also, not leave excess material in the glass channel. May want to pickup few extra rivets at auto parts, or hardware store. It was a few yrs. back, seem to recall using a small piece of alum. square stock that would set inside the channel on the replacement rivet head so I could flatten the back side using a small clamp to apply pressure. Anyhow, imagine there are number of ways to accomplish the same just on that thinking out of the box on that particular day was all I could come up with.

 

When I replace the V window seal, Citz-8121450-PR (A) in D.C. catalog, had to be mindfull when it came to drilling out the old rivets; also, not leave excess material in the glass channel. May want to pickup few extra rivets at auto parts, or hardware store. It was a few yrs. back, seem to recall using a short piece of square alum. stock that would set inside the channel and apply pressure on rivet head using a small clamp before flattening rivet shank. Anyhow, imagine there are a number of ways to accomplish the same thing, just thinking out of the box on that particular day was all I could come up with.

 

The only portion with glue was the vent glass to the vent window rail If I recall, been acouple years myself; my buddies glass shop did that portion for me as well. The division bar will move freely once the crank handle mechanism is unscrewed (4 screw that hold it on the door panel area; and the window glass is atleast in the bottom of the door if not completely out.
Good luck and let us know your end result. I plan on redoing the same for my daughters78 model; hopefully its kinda like our Slicks.

Dave:
I base my tech article after D.C cataloge print; with some additional steps that we found easier or in a better sequence to do.

 

Theres a HUGE thing you all are forgetting...to be able to remove the vent frame and so on...you gotta remove the rear glass run which goes up the rear and across the top...use the door glass to help shape it...thats what the DC catalog says...you also gotta remove the window fuzzies...and their clips...then, on the division bar, there the 2 #2 phillips screws at the top of the division bar which are easily removed from topside of door shell. the lower division bar screw is USUALLY a real pain to get to since A, its a #1 phillips screw and B, it hides nicely in the tiny hole in the rear of the vent ruber thus after 40 years give or take, when you go to turn it, they usually arent too cooperative. I do have that lil sucker too as I pulled a RH vent frame yesterday....I will snag a pic of the door...it met up with a parked hi cube truck with a tommy lift...somehow the entire vent setup survived unscathed...
As for additional fasteners on the division bar, theres 2 nuts that are 3/8" that are used as adjuster type fasteners as well as stiffeners for the lower division bar.
As for undoing the glass from the channel , you gotta get the division bar loose first. But theres also a sperate lower rear channel thats held to the door by I believe 3 huge #4 phillips screws at the rear door face. If you undo these and drop that short channel out of the way that should relieve presure on the glass so it can be removed from the channel.
To disconnect it from the window regulator, you need to remove the spring clip from the window regulator roller which rides in the lower window sash channel. Once removed, simply pull the regulator arm towards you which will disengage it from the window and roller...slide the roller out and set aside. To protect the glass from scratches put so heavy cloth or similar between the pin on which the roller mounts to. Now remove the rear lower glass run channel with the 3 large phillips screws as mentioned above and remove from the door. Now theres plenty of room to move the glass to the rear to disengage off of its track on the division bar and rear glass run. lower the glass to the bottom and rest it against the door skin. What I have done in the past at this point is either remove the window regulator which is typically a pain as the 4 #2 phillips screws arent too cooperative. The other way to do it is to roller the regulator up a good portion of its travel, but not all the way.
Wrap the glass in a towel or similar and slide it forward a lil bit then pull rear edge of the glass towards you thus putting it on the other side of its run channel at the rear then slide the glass to rear of door which should allow the glass front edge to be moved also to the other side of the division bar run. with the fuzzies out and division bar loose **** it at a 45 or so degree angle with the top edge of the bar goint towars the rear and the lower end going foward. This should give you ample room to slide the protected glass out the bottom access hole. To remove the vent assembly from the door, that #1 screw MUST be removed as with the 2 parts attached, neither can be removed from the door without damaging the door. If you have never removed a division bar assy before, trust me on this...they are a chore to remove...lotta twisting and gentle coaxing is needed as it goes in and comes out through the bottom access hole. The vent assembly is removed from the topside as it simply slides rearward and lifts out. you may need to twist the glass slightly as theres the small teardrop shaped stop which is splined onto the vent glass assy. lower shaft along with the spring, etc.

I too had written a piece on the removal of these parts a couple of years ago as well.



- cs65

 

Very helpful...I got the driver's side door done today...after getting some parts in the wrong sequence of course...the Dennis Carpenter pieces I bought seemed bigger than the originals...at least the channel that clips into the door and runs down the side the opposite the division bar was....does that need to be trimmed somehow to fit nicely with the division bar? I also put everything together but managed to forget to put the windown glass in...so apart it all came and then back together again...save a few curse words and that channel, it looks good...I still need that clip to be able to put the door lock in...and I havent put the anti rattlers in yet...
thanks for the help...

 

No problem on helping ya...the extra length can be just run down inside the door at the rear...if any trimming needs to be done, do it on that end as it would be out of the way...whatever you do be ABSOLUTE certain everything is in the door, functions ok and so on BEFORE you put the anti rattlers in...they most likely wouldnt survive removal...plus the paint getting damaged.
Drop me an email with your addy and I will drop the clip and division bar screw in the mail...food for thought...for you and others...if you should happen across a 'clean' truck(no rust issues, etc.) and the fasteners cooperate easily...snag them...little things like these division bar to vent frame screws may seem miniscule to some...but when you need them lil puppies it makes a HUGE job go smooth or create a roadblock if they are around or not...
Im parting a 65 now....most of what I have gotten off of it is fasteners...unique to these trucks for the most part of course.



- cs65