Generally yes smoke and sweet smelling exhaust

 

Hi guys i appreciate yuor help on this. It look like I'll be doing the leak down test today and looking around for the gasket kit. Does anyone have any input on the gasket kit (recommendations) the parts man at my ford dealer wasn't able to find the kit at all.


Thanks agian CPJ

 

Talk to these guys about parts
Ford Parts and Ford Diesel Parts at Powerstroke Shop

 

Ok thanks I see these gaskets are not cheap. Come to think of it nothing been cheap about this problem.

Thanks again CPJ

 

One other thing. I had over heating problems because a new radiator I put in a van of mine turned out to be the wrong one. Cant tell by just looking at them because the difference is inside. The one I needed had three rows of tubes that went from the top tank to the bottom the one i was sold had two rows. It looked like the right on and fit like a glove but A friend told me to pop the cap and count the rows inside and sure enough it only had two rows of tubes. Looked in the old one and it had the three. When I took the new one back to the parts dealer and switch it out to the right one the problem went away.

P.S. Are you having any luck with this?

 

Hi,

I double checked everything on the radiator and all other parts I replaced to be sure they are correct.

As far as progress: well, I have tried the leak test without success so I've gone ahaead and pulled the right head and I am in the process of thoroughly cleaning and inspecting it. I check the head for warpage and cracks and it appears fine on this side. I wasn't to impressed with the condition of the head gasket, (I didn't really notice a place that would indiate a leakage or seeping of exhaust into the water ports, but the gaskets showed definate signs of bulging at the water port locations. I think I may find more on the left head.

I pulled the Injectors and found two really bad seals that needed replacing. I'll be replacing them all. I have been searching for a good fluid or cleaner for the injector sleeves. I notice quite a bit of (for lack of a better term) dirt or burnt on debrit-tarnish on the sleeve walls down in deep and I am trying to find what would be the best sovlents for me to remove it before I reinstall the injectors.

My plan is to have the right side back together and buttoned up tomorrow if everything goes right. Then it will be on to the left side.

Thanks for your help Scatgo and others. I will keep you all posted as to the out come of this entire escapade as things develop.

CPJ

 

ok, you guys probably thought I for got you but, I've just been working on this truck for ever. So here's the update and a question.

I pulled the heads on this thing. I replaced the Head gaskets (They were swelled up at the water ports) and I checked for warpage, and things appeared good to me.

I took them to a few head shops ,but nobody seemed to have much knowledge on diesels here in the area, so I just used a straight edge from my drywall T Square and feeler guage to check the surfaces.

While I was in there I found the Injector seals were toast on a few cylinders. So I replaced all the seals on all the injectors as well as cleaned them up good. I wasn't sure what to use to clean the brass bores for the injectors. I found Berryman B-12 Chemtool fuel treatment at Napa ( should you have the same question) and used that with the green scuff pads from home depot and that worked great at cleaning the bores with-out really scratching the surfaces up. I used the same stuff to clean the Injectors and it worked great as well.

I think the injector seals may have been a big part of my problems as well as the head gaskets. I had just changed the oil when I replaced the radiator and it was black after just a few test drives I had taken to try and solve the over heating problems. I think the bad seals on the injectors were allowing the fuel to leak into the oil ports and mix with the oil. I did notice that my oil level was higher than when I checked it during the oil change. So I did another new oil and filter change again.

I started the truck and it ran very rough as suggested by the Super Duty Work Manual someone had posted, but after the test drive ( about 10 Miles) the engine settled down and the computer figured it all out.

As mentioned in one of the posts, I blead the air from the oil rails via the front upper head plugs in the oil rails. This made quite the mess inside the valley. Which is leading into my question. One of the plugs I removed was actually the ICP Sensor.

I went to the local car wash to clean the valley out and excess oil from the engine and when I left the wash the truck began to act up. It missed and then began running as if it was just using half the motor and not the other half. I carefully milked it back to the garage thinking the water must have gotten into something. I use the air hose and blew the water out of all electrical connections etc. Then went for a test drive and it stalled as if the fuel was shut off. Then it started right back up, then as it shifted it was a real hard shift each time. It died out again and then again. So I milked her back to the shop and it starts but it runs for a few minutes, 2 or 3 and then poof it stops again.

I search the site here for more info and I seem to have possibly narrowed the problem to the ICP sensor. I start the truck with the ICP sensor disconnected and let it run for about 5 minutes and it seemed as if the problem was gone. So pluged the sensor back in and started the truck, and in about 2 minutes she died again.

The Questions: would you say thats my problem? The ICP Sensor I mean. Also, I dont have a code reader for my truck and I would like to get one. Do you have a reccomendation for this truck? Most I have seen are for prior to 1995, or 1996 and up I don't seem to find one that works with my 1995-F350, King Cab Duely 2 wheel drive.

Sorry about the long message ,but I felt I needed to keep you informed and let others know my situation should it ever happen again to them.

Scatgo and TJ, I have to thank you both a bunch your help and others for their info this forum is a life saver.

Thanks agian CPJ

 

Well, I replaced the ICP Sensor and it looks as if everyting is back to working normal on my truck. It starts and runs fine.

Next week I will be pulling my trailer and then I will know for sure that I have resolved my over-heating problems, but just watching the gauge I feel it will be fine.

Thanks for all the help from all of you! As I said before, if it were not for this forum, I'd still be looking at a broken truck or out a lot more money.

Thanks
CPJ

 

I have a Edge Evolution Programmer. It is also a code reader. I got it used on flebay for about 200. It can also be used to reprogram your pcm. It has 3 hp settings 60 80 and 100 HP. But I got to tell you some people have had problems with them. As far as your icp, not sure but if it runs better with it unplugged more than likely thats it.