Valve check?
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: El Cajon,San Diego, CA
Valve check?
I took off my valve cover today, to continue my troubleshooting of my start problems...everything looks the same and i have no idea what im looking for! I wiggled the springs around and none were broken, so thats good. anything else i should look for?
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Benton, AR
Haven't read all your posts, so I don't know what your problem is, but... You can put a socket on the front of your engine and rotate it slowly and make sure you don't have any stuck valves. Last time I had trouble getting an engine going I did this and found two stuck valves and bent rods.
later
later
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: El Cajon,San Diego, CA
Haven't read all your posts, so I don't know what your problem is, but... You can put a socket on the front of your engine and rotate it slowly and make sure you don't have any stuck valves. Last time I had trouble getting an engine going I did this and found two stuck valves and bent rods.
later
later
Posting Guru
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From: Buckeye, AZ
Acording to the 20% rule 150 is over by 6 psi. first thought would be oil leaking into cyl through guides as was probably last cyl to test, just a guess at this point but would be concerned with making sure the valves especialy the exhaust valve is openning on the 6 cyl. Have you gave the ignition system a good check over?
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: El Cajon,San Diego, CA
yes i have...i timed it, change points and condenser and coil. cleaned all contacts. blew out the fuel lines, rebuilt the carb, and thats all
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Posting Guru
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From: Buckeye, AZ
Going to bed and getting ready to start another busy week but Iam stuck with out model, year, and size of motor along with when this happened, something you have recently purchaced that has not ran in some time? or had it been running OK then started to get worse only to die after repairs were made or simply never ran after tune up? Iam not insulting your work as I have put a brand new bad condensor in before and come up with a ton of grief. Hope this helps.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 108
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From: El Cajon,San Diego, CA
Going to bed and getting ready to start another busy week but Iam stuck with out model, year, and size of motor along with when this happened, something you have recently purchaced that has not ran in some time? or had it been running OK then started to get worse only to die after repairs were made or simply never ran after tune up? Iam not insulting your work as I have put a brand new bad condensor in before and come up with a ton of grief. Hope this helps.
its a 64 f100 with a 223 in it... it happend about 2 weeks ago, and it had been running fine before that.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Timing.
The timing chain has slipped (stretched). The cam and/or crank gear have stripped.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Glendale Arizona
Yes
Which goes back to the advice to start at the basics, Did you set the engine to number one top dead center with each valve fully closed by observation on the compression stroke?
If you have done this check the rotor for where it is poining it should be dead nuts in the center of number one cyl wires post.
If it is not adjust till it is, and time from there. If it is still errattic look to the timing chain for stretch common on these engines with over 50K in miles.
Garbz
Which goes back to the advice to start at the basics, Did you set the engine to number one top dead center with each valve fully closed by observation on the compression stroke?
If you have done this check the rotor for where it is poining it should be dead nuts in the center of number one cyl wires post.
If it is not adjust till it is, and time from there. If it is still errattic look to the timing chain for stretch common on these engines with over 50K in miles.
Garbz
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From: Buckeye, AZ
The compression test if done with an accurate gauge which appears to be would have reflected a lower compression than what I saw as the cam fall's back, the compression due to the intake staying open too long on compression stroke lowers the numbers. Rule of thumb for me is to check slack in timming chain by rolling crank around clockwise till lined up on T.D.C. then roll back untill feel slack go out of chain, should be 7 degrees or less. There is other tests but I doubt is needed . I agree that number one should be verified on compression stroke with rotor lined up on number one spark plug wire and to get it down tighter than that, on compression number 1 rolling the crank up to top dead center should stop at or as close to 5 degree's B.T.C. without backing engine inspect points in distribruter, they should just beginning to open.