Error Code 332: Insufficient EGR Flow Detected
I have been getting this intermittent message from my computer system on my 1995 F-150, I-6 truck. It's a 4.9 liter 2WD. It says Error Code 332: Insufficient EGR Flow Detected.
Anyway, what is the least inexpensive way to get this thing repaired. Is there a particular valve that needs to be replaced?
Thanks for all your past help on this forum.
Steve
A number if things could cause that code, one to check for first is a vacuum leak in the system. Check every vacuum line on it, it should have no leaks. Lines get old and crack, get pinched and or melted and so on so look at them all.
I have a Chilton manual for my truck, and all the instructions I've read say to do a tachometer test, which I don't have, as well as a vacuum test. I believe I did something like this before, minus the tachometer (which I don't think is necessary). The vacuum test was a matter of just putting my hand over the hose to see if it pulled a vacuum. It did. I am leaning toward replacing that expensive part.
Anyway, I am going to read this manual thoroughly and see where all this goes. I hope I get it right, but it's hard to say. I may just chance it and get a new EGR valve. If I fail at solving the problem, then it's just water under the bridge.
Overall, I get most of my repairs done, and I am glad this forum exists. I've saved hundreds, maybe even over a grand fixing my own truck.
Steve
goodluck hope this helps
You can draw some vacuum on it with your face if you do not have a hand vac, not preferable but would work in a pinch.
There is two other parts that could be bad, don't just guess and replace the valve itself.
Egr valves are tough, if it was working and just quit its likely to be something else and not the valve. They freeze up when people do not fix the system and they remain closed for a long time.
It takes more time than money to replace the vacuum lines, so i'd start there. If it's all original, it probably needs replacing anyways.
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I found a site that has a link related to my Error 332 code. It said that I should remove the engine manifold and clean out the coke from the intake port where the EGR valve goes. Is removing the engine manifold hard? I pretty much can do anything I put my mind to. Basically, the author of the article states that there's usually not a problem with the EGR valve.
Check Engine Light with EGR Error Code :: SHOtimes FAQ :: Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) about the Ford Taurus SHO from the SHOTIMES mailing list.
Let me know what you think of this article.
Steve
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I'm still leaning towards a small vacuum leak though.
So either the valve opens and the sensor is bad or the sensor works and the valve did not move. You need to find out if the valve functions first, if the controls work. IE does the switch that opens the vacuum supply to it work, and does the sensor that senses it move do so when it moves.
You really need to start with the basics, follow the instructions for testing the components in the manual first step by step.
Tearing the motor apart is not the answer, it may come to that but I doubt it. That would only need done on a very high millage motor that had little to no maintenance done to it in it life, one that is a "oil pumper". If your motor fits that description, block the EGR openings with a steal plate and plug, you have bigger problems!
And yes double triple check for vacuum leaks, has to be the #1 cause of EGR trouble codes.
I found a site that has a link related to my Error 332 code. It said that I should remove the engine manifold and clean out the coke from the intake port where the EGR valve goes. Is removing the engine manifold hard? I pretty much can do anything I put my mind to. Basically, the author of the article states that there's usually not a problem with the EGR valve.
Check Engine Light with EGR Error Code :: SHOtimes FAQ :: Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) about the Ford Taurus SHO from the SHOTIMES mailing list.
Let me know what you think of this article.
Steve
I cleaned that bugger twice in 4 years before finally breaking down and doing the seals too.
That said, check all the vac lines and other possible candidates before tearing iin. Can you spray some cleaner into a vac line near the EGR, to hopefully loosen the crud up, maybe tap with a hammer after spraying?
I'm unfamiliar with the 4.9...are you sure you must remove the manifold to get at the area in question? On the TC, I left the intake manifold alone and went after the EGR manifold, as I recall.









