has anyone used spray on or roll on type bedliner as a frame paint.or would this just scream pitted frame. i have recently blasted and painted my 55 f100 frame, and all the defects really stand out under the gloss black.i bought filler but did not use it. getting hot so went without.thought i could paint heavy and block it out,repeat a time or two .not happening. i was thinking scuff and roll or spray herculiner or line-x.would this be just plain wrong.or try it and learn a hard lesson. this resto is a driver but i want it decent. its not cheaper after a re-do or two,or three more times.

 

had a buddy who used spray on bedliner to do the frame of his jeep he beats the living daylights out of . so far it has held up quite well despite his best efforts to destroy the hapless thing ..........

 

that is what i need to hear. thanks for the reply

 

Hey just wanted to throw out another option for ya for frame painting..I used/am using Rustoleum Hammered..It gives the frame a nice texture that could possible be confused for powdercoating..This paint reminds me of the same texture that you might find on lathe or any other machinery like that...You can either spray or brush it on..I brushed mine on and you cannot see the brush marks..I attached a link to a pic of my frame, this was after one coat of paint...

http://www.hotrodders.com/journal_ph...2084828662.jpg

The great thing is if you plan on driving your truck like I do, then touch ups are a snap...

Just my 2 cents!

 

I'm using the reg. Rustoleum primer and black but it will show pits if you use the gloss. flat is an option. Someone on the site used the bedliner on bed and running boards and I plan to use on running boards. Good luck
later. Mike

 

Before you jump into the expense of that Rhino coating consider this... I Have an enclosed trailer that the factory used Rhino coat on the frame and exposed tongue. I'm not impressed. After one year it looks dull and aged. No amount of washing and cleaning can fix it. You can soak it witn Armour All and it will last about a month at best. I also have a garage kept F-350 wth a topper on it that I had Rhino coated in the bed. The stuff is nowhwre as tough as it is advertised. Any impact from a heavy item with a sharp edge or corner will gouge out the coating. The people who did the work did an excellent job, so it's not a matter of poor installation work. I have to keep a rubber bedmat in it to protect the coating. If I had it to do over again I would put in a bedliner.

As mentioned here, Rustoleum is cheap and it works great. Not spraycans... I buy it by the gallon and use Valspar's hardener. I do a lot of frames and trailer building. It's tough with hardener and holds up well. It's also easy to fix if you do manage to scuff it up. Take a look at the Scoobygator link in my signature if you want to see what it looks like on heavy steel. If you do use Rustoleum, thin it with Acetone, mix it with the hardener and spray it with a gun. Remember, the stuff has a short potlife after adding the hardener, so you can't store it for later use. Also you need to tear down your gun and really clean the parts with acetone immediately after you are finished spraying.

Later Man...

 

Why not use something like a satin Chassiscoat Blackfrom Por15. They also have primers and fillers that would help too. POR-15 Inc.

 

I just finished a frame with line x and it is working out fine. I actually think I will spray a base-coat cover over it,later before the engine gets installed. The frame was from Missouri and original paint on 90 percent of it,and after pressure washing was awesome. I sanded a little preped it and spayed it. Should hold for another 50 yrs. I am building drivers and this is the 1st I tried this,but my other frames are chassis-savered....Bill

 

There are some two part epoxy type paints that will provide a thick coat and the stuff hardens quite well and will resist rock chips and scratches. I think the Por 15 is an epoxy type paint. The PO of my truck used an epoxy paint so mine was already done when I got it.

Here is the link. POR-15 Inc.

 

The POR-15 is a Ceramic Coating they claim that is how it is supposed to stop rust. I painted most of my frame 6 years ago with Rustolem and it has discolored but has held up fairly well. I have sense painted some other parts of the frame with the POR-15 and it stilll looks great.

 

If you're making slow progress and the paint will have plenty of time to cure, "Liquid Plastic" or equivalent polyurethane paint seems to be pretty tough. Maybe that Valspar hardener would reduce the curing time.

There's got to be some tough catalyzed industrial or marine coatings out there, that could be brushed on safely.

 

Along these lines, what experience has been had with weld through rust inhibitors/convertors?

I have some surface rust showing in spots on my frame and want to box it but don't want to box in rust.

I am looking at Eastwood's 'Rust Encapsulator' and wondered if anyone here had used it.

 

I looked into this sometime back and didn't find anything that was weldable. The best I could come up with was to box and try to add some rustproofing to each section after it was welded in. I wonder how new frames are protected when they are built.

 

Anyone have any experience with 'Rust Bullet' advertised here?

 

I used the rust bullet paint on the frame of my '53 behind the cab (because I have the box off now) I rolled and brushed it on over a wire brushed surface. Paint went on smooth at first but as the heat and humidity came up, the paint started to thicken and the final finish is not at all smooth. That will be fine for this truck. It seems to be stuck on pretty good. If you get any on your skin it will not come off with any solvents that I had.