For 6 months my 6.0 has taken a good 10 minutes longer to warm up (and its 92 degrees outside). At five bucks a gallon that idle time is hurtin me wallet.

Took to dealer for 60,000 service - they did not really care to figure it out, and I dont want to leave my truck there for a month.

Any possible hints out there?

 

Thermostat. It's just a hint, but possible...

 

i agree. the thermostat sounds like it's stuck open so the coolant doesn't stay in the block long enough for it to warm up so now you have to wait for all the coolant in the whole system to warm up instead of just the coolant in the block.

 

The 6.0L truck does not need to idle to remperature before you drive it. This will cause more problems. You do need to get it up to temperature before you drive it "hard". Are you saying you idle for 10 minutes frequently? If so, the EGR system will certainly begin to form soot and sticky deposits (if you still have an active EGR system). You can also jeopardize your unison ring sticking on the VGTurbo.

 

I second Bismic's opinion. You are wasting your money on fuel. If it's very cold outside then plug it in, but otherwise just drive it and take it easy until everything warms up. If your ambient temp. is 95 deg. then everything is already warmed up!!

 

i would not say driving it "hard", i need 12 minutes of idle for the engine to run remotely smooth. Prior to that the engine runs ROUGH (like a lawnmower with a bad spark plug).

I have had the truck for three years and this has only occurred in the last 6 months.

But I'll try replacing the thermostat. Is that a DIY project?

 

I think you have more problems that a thermostat will correct....I'd schedule a trip to the dealer and let him keep it overnight so it's cold when they start it....It should fairly SMOOTH even when cold! Maybe the EGR is ALREADY plugged!

 

You need to fix the root cause of the rough idling. You will have other problems if you do not. The thermostat is most likely not the core issue.

 

I have a 2005 6.0 that would run rough on cold start up for one minute at the most. The dealer kept it overnight and it ended up being a bad FICM(fuel injector control module). Runs great and only cost $100.00. Just happened last week.

 

sounds like you have a few bad injectors

 

Mine did this for a while as well. I got all new injectors under warrenty, but it did not fix the problem. In the end, they replaced the cam position sensor, and the problem was gone.

 

preciate the responses. a fuel injection problem makes sense, and its plausible that a fi control module could act up only when cold.

i just hate taking it to the dealership

 

there's nothing wrong with taking it to the dealership as long as you have a good one. now if you don't have a good one then i would chew off my arm before i took it in.

 

When it comes to running rough, the fuel and oil filters are always the place to start (new filters, correct filters, etc). Even the oil you use can be an issue (oil additives can cause similar problems due to thickening the oil). There are a few other things it could be. DTC's would help narrow it down if there are any.

Lacks or Loses Power in Cold Temperatures:
This may be due to fuel gelling or moisture freezing and reducing fuel flow. It is recommended to use a fuel conditioner, such as Stanadyne Performance Formula, to prevent this condition. Do not use conditioners that contain alcohol. Broadcast Message 0436.

Lack of Power, Hard/No-Start, Runs Rough on Delivery:
Air in the HP oil and fuel systems may cause the above symptoms. The vehicle should be driven 30 miles to purge the air from the passages. If this does not resolve the concern, use WDS to command the variable geometry turbo actuator to cycle. If the concern is still present, continue diagnosis. Broadcast Message 0211.

Runs Rough, Lack of Power, Oil Level Overfull/Fuel in Oil:
This may be due to fuel leaking through or around one or more fuel injectors. There is a comprehensive TSB that has step-by-step diagnostic procedures to isolate the problem to determine in which bank the leak is occurring and to identify which injector and whether it is an o-ring or an injector failure. Note: If more than four quarts of fuel is present in the oil, the turbo charger shaft end play must be inspected. If end play is greater than 0.004", or if the compressor fins have come into contact with the housing, the turbo must be replaced. After replacing any leaking injectors, the oil and filter should be replaced and the truck driven 20 miles. These steps need to be done twice more before releasing the vehicle.
TSB #04-9-3.

ICP Sensor Problems:
This is now covered by Customer Satisfaction Program 03B05. It applies to trucks build through 2-3-03. The program will be in affect until 12-31-05. Ford is authorizing a free oil and filter change under this program until 12-31-03. Some 6.0 PowerStroke engines may exhibit rough/rolling idle, poor idle return, lack of power, injector fault codes or excessive smoke. This may be caused by the ICP sensor reading incorrectly. The ICP sensor and connector terminals should be inspected for damage (the ICP is at the rear of the engine, under the turbo), and the sensor circuits checked for opens or shorts. With the engine at operating temperature (engine oil above 180 degrees), the ICP sensor signal should be 0.16-0.28 volts (less than 70 PSI) with the key on and engine off. The engine needs to be off for at least two minutes for this test. If the ICP signal is not within this range, replace the sensor with P/N 3C3Z-9F838-EA.

05 F- and E-Series Crank/No Start, Hard Start, Runs Rough at Idle:
Some trucks built before 11-1-04 may exhibit a crank no start with a low ICP reading, a hard start with slow building ICP, or a rough idle with a high ICP. If these symptoms are confirmed, remove and inspect the IPR valve. If the IPR screen is deformed, sucked into the valve, has a hole in it, or has metal debris covering more than half its surface, replace the HP oil pump (5C4Z-9A543-AA) and IPR valve (5C3Z-9C968-CA). If a rough idle is still present, the metal debris may have contaminated one or more fuel injectors. Perform normal injector diagnosis.
If the IPR screen is not damaged or contaminated, perform normal diagnosis as per the symptom.
TSB 04-25-18

White Smoke, Lack of Power, Exhaust Odor, Surge, Runs Rough, or No Start:
The above symptoms on trucks equipped with the 6.0 when the engine is cold may indicate a sticking injector spool valve. To reduce the likelihood of this condition, there is a revised program available for the Fuel Injection Control Module. This new program uses the injector spool valve solenoids to preheat the oil at the injectors. The diagnostic computer has to be at version 47.8 or higher, or 48.2 or higher to upload this new program. The new program supersedes TSB #06-2-13, which caused the injectors to actuate (buzz) for 30 seconds after the engine is shut off. With this program the injectors will no longer buzz on shut-down.
TSB #07-5-4
This supersedes TSB 06-2-13, which advises the above conditions may be related to poor oil maintenance practices. However, the programming mentioned in the current bulletin does not obviate the need to perform oil changes at the recommended intervals.

2005 Trucks, Crank/No Start, Hard Start, Runs Runs Rough at Idle:
Pickups and vans built before 4-15-05 and Excursions built between 1-10 and 4-15-05 may exhibit hard or no start conditions with a low ICP signal, or a rough idle with a high ICP signal. This may be due to a damaged high pressure oil pump and/or IPR valve. The IPR valve should be removed (mounted on HPP cover under the turbo) and inspected for a damaged inlet screen or debris on over half the screen. If either condition is present, the IPR (5C3Z-9C968-CA) and the high pressure oil pump (5C3Z-9A543-AA) should be replaced, along with the oil and oil filter. If neither condition is present, continue with normal diagnosis. If a rough idle is present after replacing the above parts, injector damage may have occurred.
TSB 50-12-3.

2003-05 Various Running Problems, Check Engine Light; New EBP Sensor:
Trucks built before 1-17-05 that exhibit buck/jerk, hesitation, lack of power, stalling, stumble, black smoke, surging, rolling idle, changes in engine sound at idle or when driving at a steady speed, or with the trouble codes P2263 or P0299, may have an exhaust backpressure sensor signal that is incorrect or erratic. A revised EBP sensor is available if this is found to be the case. Part number 4C3Z-9J460-A. Broadcast Message 3815.
Normal EBP signal reading should reflect atmospheric pressure with the key on/ engine off. Typically, this is 14.7 PSI/0.88-0.9 volts at sea level, decreasing one PSI/0.10 volt for every 2000 feet of elevation. It should be within 0.5 PSI of BARO and MAP sensor pressure signals

2003/04 Lack of Power, Runs Rough, Check Engine Light on With EGR Codes:
Some trucks may exhibit the above symptoms, as well as have excessive white or black smoke, and may have the following EGR valve code(s): P0401, P0402, P0403, P0404, P0405, P0406. Diagnostics for the EGR valve have been updated, as has the EGR valve--P/N 4C3Z-9F452-A. Broadcast Message 3614, SSM 18362.

Wire Chafing Issues:
A variety of driveability issues can arise from chafing/shorting wiring, such as crank/no-start, stall, running rough, misfire, buck/jerk or lack of power. The most common location for this is the valve cover/cover bolts near the FICM or the intake manifold bolts where the harness routes under the air intake hose. The harness should be rerouted and any chafe points insulated with rubber vacuum caps. Other chafe problems can occur where the sensor harnesses route around the valve covers, thermostat housing, idler pulleys, glow plug relay bracket, and near the accelerator pedal assembly (adjustable pedals), and also near the PCM by the battery and near the relay box brackets at the left rear corner of the engine compartment. On Econolines, also inspect at the top edge of the computer, along the oil dipstick tube bracket and auxiliary A/C lines. Broadcast Messages 1407 and 3077.

 

my truck sence it was new takes 10 minutes of driving easy to warm up even in the summer.