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Old Jul 25, 2008 | 05:21 PM
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Question bleeding brakes

hi folks, it's my turn in the barrel. just finished full rebuild of brake system, lines, master, wheel cyliders, shoes--soup to nuts! noticed a small leak on brass block that attaches to back of master cyl. need to replace this block! i would think that most any 1.5 ton or bigger would have this part, but am not positive. master cyl. # is fd4570 and block has 3 lines exiting with shouldered bolt going through center. have sent e-mail to chucks trucks, awaiting answer, so thought i would put feelers out here. anybody hiding one of these or know where i might find one? parts stores have 2 line, but not 3 line. would like to keep original, and will persue until found, might end up making one. use truck all the time, so now i'm feeling the pressure. (i have other vehicles, just like my toy). thanks in advance for any and all help!
 
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Old Jul 25, 2008 | 09:44 PM
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I'm sure you did, but you installed the copper washers between the cylinder and the brass block?
Check a place called Job Lot Auto, they tend to have a lot of the NOS and hard to find pieces for these trucks.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2008 | 11:47 PM
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You might also try Lowell Meier in Walker Iowa, 319-448-4592 . He is way up in years, so not sure if still alive or in business. He was 3 years ago. Deals in 32-69 Ford parts. No website. He sent me a new transmission cover and a couple other things on phone order only, before receiving my payment. Ol Skool.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 05:33 AM
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In addition to Job Lot...which is excellent....try earlyford.com and my double secret resource is: Burton Antique Auto Parts:

Burton Antique Auto Parts - NOS and OEM Parts

He says he has a quarter million Ford NOS parts
 
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 07:19 AM
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thanks for the comeback, folks. yes, all new copper washers, the problem is that one of the lines had, at some time, been over torqued, creating a small split in block. believe it or not, i was able to overcome this issue for the last 18 years with no problem,but now that system is probably the strongest it's ever been, this block insists on dripping under pressure. is job lot auto a chain, parts store, overstock warehouse? don't have one around here. (eastern ny) have old burton catalog, and will call to see,and will try lowell.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 07:25 AM
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I;m thinking Job Lot is IN New York....I may be wrong. But they are Ford Parts Specialists:

JobLot Automotive
 
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Old Jul 26, 2008 | 07:42 AM
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steve, your right! they are in queens village, about 1 hour away. looks like a tip that will definitly go in the resource files. thanks a ton!!
 
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Old Jul 28, 2008 | 01:08 PM
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Here is the Web link for Job Lot JobLot Automotive
 
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Old Jul 28, 2008 | 06:12 PM
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ordered a catalog from joblot automotive. posted this thread on 48-60 forum, and found a used block that will work just fine. thanks to orin martin for that. were making progress, thanks to all the great info from the forum gang!
 
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Old Jul 28, 2008 | 06:29 PM
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Wait til you actually talk to the guy there........he's the kind of guy who will sit and talk through just about any scenario you might be trying and come up with helpful suggests and solutions. Really a SUPER outfit. He was VERY helpful when I was converting my '41 block to run the MSD ditributor like the 49-53s
 
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Old Jul 28, 2008 | 07:21 PM
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steve, i will chat it up with this fellow. for now, chuck (chucks trucks) just called me to say he has one to be shipped tomorrow. how lucky am i? can't wait for catalogs, i love to shop/browse through them. thanks for the tip, will chat with you later!
 
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 02:58 PM
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steve, how much did that msd system change performance? was it worth the cost?
 
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 03:52 PM
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Actually, I wasn't looking so much for a performance enhancement, as I was to improve overall reliability and lessen those awful vapor lock issues. With the electric fuel pump and eletronic ignition, I have total reliability.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2008 | 06:48 PM
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10-4 on that! i'm thinking of experimenting with a phenolic riser block under carb, just to see how she reacts. i've never vapor locked, but intake does get hot. any thoughts on this?
 
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Old Aug 2, 2008 | 04:55 PM
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Keeping the carb cooler is a good thing, and IMHO so are elect. fuel pumps. The float bowl is full on startup if you flip on the pump first, for quicker starts. At the end of the season turn pump off and let motor run until carb is empty, then disconnect fuel line, turn on pump, and drain gas tank into gas can. Now that almost everyone has 90/10 gas, it makes it even more important to drain gas from carb and tank before letting vehicle sit very long.
 
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