Shackle Flip - Any Drawbacks?
My question is... has anyone had problems resulting from this mod?
Thanks
There is a pic around here of a folded shackle that was said to have failed as a result of a shackle flip, but again I believe this is the exception and not the rule.
I have been running flipped shackles in most of my rigs, and have not had a single problem as a result of this.
Here is my shackle flip after a ton of miles, and no sign of any problem:
Image of rear shackle flip with 64" sping - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
As you can see here,
Image of bringing home the donor - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting it is not uncommon for me to tow several thousand pounds, even with this shackle configuration. I see, and maintain highway speeds here in So. Ca with this configuration, yes over the limit of 55, and even with this shackle configuration, the truck is solid, and the shackles hever never shown any signs of failure.
This truck has been stuck in the mud deep enough to completely bury the tires, and recovery has required a pull slightly from the side, which I though for sure would have killed the shackles, but,,,,,nothing. Thigs have held up fine.
These shackles are plenty easy to fabricate out of heavy stock steel, but I have not seen a requirement for this.
Later model shackles can be an option as these are heavier than the stock 30 year old units. (depending on spring width)
My biggest concern, is at what angle the shackle will sit if I use the factory frame holes. Also trying to understand the effects of using a 4" skyjacker lift spring with the flip (shackle angle).
I don't have a good spring shop locally, to work with on a custom length pack if one is needed to provide the proper shackle angle.
Thanks for the info!
This required me to move the front hanger foward, and the rear one towards the back. Only the outer most bolt holes were used. This would make sure that everything stayed square, and the axle was straight.
When I removed the front hanger, I replaced it with a longer chebby hanger (this would make the spring eye lower and obtaining additional lift) Now, after I removed the front hanger and replaced it, I installed the original front hanger in the back, and hung the shackle from it. This provided a considerable amount of lift, and after a couple attempts, and a few adjustments, I obtained a great shackle angle, and superb axle articulation.
Rear articulation now is limited by the shock length. I can only fit a 10 inch travel shock back there, and it uses every bit of that. With the shock removed, I could get over 14 inches of travel, or maybe a little more.
I would have to penetrate the bed floor to accomodate such a long shock, and I am not willing to do this yet, but, you get the idea.
I used all factory parts for mine, and probably have less than 100 bucks in the whole thing, including springs, and these are very flat stock 2wd 64" 1/2 ton rated springs.
A bit too soft, but flex like mad off road.
I have to many other projects right now, and can't justify investing the time in a major conversion on the rear, so I'll probably just buy the fabricated brackets and go from there. Worse case... I'll just have to relocte the bracket to get the correct shackle angle (MAG drill helps with that).
Thanks again for the info and pics.
Good luck with your ride, and you will have to relocate the rear hanger to obtain the proper shackle angle.
It is amazing how much affect that angle has on the ride.
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