ok I have a 06 250 with a diesel and a 6" bds lift in that runs on 35s so I put the aftermarket bds stabilizer on and it wasnt enough had bump steer so i got a double kit that goes on the tie rod and it worked great...so now there is prolly 25000 miles on the stabilizers and i noticed more bump steer so I took them all off and moved them in and out and the ones on the tie rod will jump a half inch and the the damping kicks in the on in the stock location is fine.....so now im puting 37s on and I need dampers that will hold up a little longer what does every one suggest and haw many miles are ppl geting out of their stabilizers????

 

Bump steer can not be corrected with a stabilizer. Real bump steer is a part of the suspension/steering geometry, when the axle approaches the frame, the length of the draglink pushes the knuckle away from the gear box. To fix this, you need to get the tie rods and bottom of the pitman arm closer.

I have a bilstien for my steering stabilizer, and I have had no oscillation from my front end. You'll have to search back where I posted the part number, I don't remember what it was.

 

I just had a BDS dealer try to convince me that my truck was pulling to right because of the Nitrogen charged Daul set I have on the truck. I went to him for a front end alinement and before he even had the truck on the machine he was trying to sell me BDS steering Dampers OIL filled only. He thought the pull was caused by one of the stabilizers have more push to it. Just some food for thought. I kept what I had.

 

I'm not so sure I like gas-charged stabilizers for that exact reason - one leaks out a little, and you have an unequal push to one side.

 

Unless the single is overheating, is there a reason to have two? Much like shock absorbers I imagine, one will do the job well, but two splits the same work to reduce the heat in tube.

 

Higher dampening. As long as the single and the duals use the same shocks, that is

 

Perhaps I am working on the problem the wrong way, but a proper alignment will cause the wheels track straight at speed, the dampner is in place to stop minor oscillation in the steering wheel not keep the wheels tracking straight. Is this just a band aid then?

 

Some call it a band-aid. Some call it a necessity.

The damper is there to keep any sudden hits to the front suspension from pushing the tires to the side (and tie-rods and steering box pitman arm) too far, too fast.

The steering box, of course, will push back against the suspension.

If it pushes too fast, too far, the suspension will oscillate, and hopefully come to a stop after a few back-and-forths.

If you have enough of a damper, that won't happen. The resonating frequency of the steering box (and suspension/wheels) is canceled out by the damper.

Depending on the size of the bump, the weight of the wheels, the current state of the steering box (worn or not) and a whole bunch of other things, the damper will cover the "problem".

No matter what, no matter how new, how "good" the suspension is setup, you will get SOME give in the suspension and steering box.

If you dampen it enough you won't notice a problem.

Hence the "death wobble" - it's really the steering box going into oscillations that don't cancel out. The stock stabilizer is close to the steering box on the '05-up SD's, and can't cancel out the "problem". Putting an aftermarket stabilizer (or two) on the passenger-side of the front suspension has "band-aid'd" the problem for some people.

 

If you have the BDS kit, they are twin tube shocks correct?
(not nitrogen charged).


Personally, I've ran both kinds on my lifted 01 and the nitrogen charged are much better in terms of reduces feedback through the wheel caused by road imperfections.


I would recommend either the Bilstein or Icon shocks to run in that BDS bracket:
Bilstein 5125 - 8.5 Inch Travel - Truck Toyz Store
Icon Vehicle Dynamics 1999-2008 FSD Signature Series Stabilizer Shock - Signature Series - Truck Toyz Store


I would also remove the factory stabilizer with that setup. A factory stab that isn't working properly can cause what essentially feels like bumpsteer on the 05+ trucks due to it's location on the truck. This is amplified as the trucks get lifted higher and the angle of the drag link is increased.


Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for all the sugestions and i will try eliminating the stock on the drag link....Im leaning towards the gas charged ones cause yes DC the bds ones arnt nitrogen charged... and I think it is a necessity because any mechancal system is basically a spring for the steering we want it to critically damped (or no over shoot) resulting in the wobble so.... not running one would be like driving with no shocks on that is an exagerated case though....