axles and seals
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Cantonment, Fl
Which seals are you talking about. The only one that might be a problem is the one where the yoke goes in. Axle seals are fairly easy. The bearings have to be pressed off and back on. If you replace the brarings I would use the later sealed bearing versus the earlier bearings that are lubricated by the differential oil.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Fountain Inn S0. Car.
First thanks for your reply, I do not know but there is fluid, checking one wheel it appears to be the axle as opposed to the wheel slave, and the carrier is low on grease cant feel any with my finger..but at the same time that I found this had to top off master cyl. have just bought this truck, maybe put 300 mi. on it , has been parked since I found the problem.
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Joined: May 2008
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If you can replace the bearings with the sealed units, that's probably a good thing to do. If not, there is no reason you can't pull the old seals out of the ends of the axle tubes, and (gently, gently, carefully) bang some new seals in with a seal driver (or, failing that, a big socket, or a properly-sized chunk of wood with a flat end, or ...)
The axles don't have C-clips or anything dumb like that in the pumpkin, so removing the brake backing plates should allow the axles to be pulled out without problem. Just make sure the axles themselves have a good surface for the seals to ride on.
I'd drain and refill the axle with some good gear oil. Look in the manual, or online, for the right stuff, which should be available from your local auto parts store. One thing to watch for, is if you have limited slip (or whatever Ford calls it,) which might mean you need to get a different lubricant, or some sort of additive to keep the clutches in the limited slip unit gripping.
As for posting, if you're set up like I am, the posts show up here pretty much real-time, and a notification is sent to your email account, with a link leading back to this thread.
The axles don't have C-clips or anything dumb like that in the pumpkin, so removing the brake backing plates should allow the axles to be pulled out without problem. Just make sure the axles themselves have a good surface for the seals to ride on.
I'd drain and refill the axle with some good gear oil. Look in the manual, or online, for the right stuff, which should be available from your local auto parts store. One thing to watch for, is if you have limited slip (or whatever Ford calls it,) which might mean you need to get a different lubricant, or some sort of additive to keep the clutches in the limited slip unit gripping.
As for posting, if you're set up like I am, the posts show up here pretty much real-time, and a notification is sent to your email account, with a link leading back to this thread.
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From: Fountain Inn S0. Car.
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Generally, the vent holes will be at the uppermost part of the axle. That is, somewhere near the center of the top of the pumpkin, at the top of the differential pumpkin housing, at the center of the rear axle.
Usually these are little fittings (many times plastic) meant to let air in and out of the axle housing, but designed to keep dirt from being sucked or blown in too easily. Lots of times, these look like a little hose nipple wearing a dustcap.
Just make sure these are clean, and that you can blow/suck on it without obstruction.
Usually these are little fittings (many times plastic) meant to let air in and out of the axle housing, but designed to keep dirt from being sucked or blown in too easily. Lots of times, these look like a little hose nipple wearing a dustcap.
Just make sure these are clean, and that you can blow/suck on it without obstruction.
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Junior User
Joined: May 2008
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Oh, about pressing the bearings on/off...
You'll probably need to take your axles to a shop or garage that has an arbor press or hydraulic shop press.
Unless you have a press with the bearing separator, there's really not any way to do this at home.
Luckily, this takes a mechanic with a press less than 10 minutes to do both axles, if he has a clue what he's doing. Not a big deal.
You'll probably need to take your axles to a shop or garage that has an arbor press or hydraulic shop press.
Unless you have a press with the bearing separator, there's really not any way to do this at home.
Luckily, this takes a mechanic with a press less than 10 minutes to do both axles, if he has a clue what he's doing. Not a big deal.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Fountain Inn S0. Car.
Hey, and thanks again, I looked for a nipple fitting on top there is none the only thing on the Axle is the brake line brass fitting and it had a hose which had dirt in the end, took it off and cant blow thru it.. P.
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--Silly
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Senior User
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From: Fountain Inn S0. Car.
HEY Silly, On this axle there is no drain plug, do I have to open it to drain? filled it and took a ride , less noise but lots of smoke, I will remove wheels tomorrow and check for leaks, brake fluid , I like this web page, sure has been helpful, Thanks..P.
Hey SV. THIS SHOULD GO TO A PICTURE TEST.. p
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Joined: May 2008
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Hmm... on that one, you might have to either pump it out by hand, or pop the pumpkin off the housing after you've pulled the axles. I think there's a plug, with about a 1/4" or 3/8" sqare fitting in it that you can turn out to fill the axle. I believe the right way to tell you've filled the diff enough is when it begins leaking back out of the hole you're putting it in.
This is the first leak that I found also leaking at the other wheel.
P