MMM....:~( Did you mark the original spot for the dist shaft? If so...go back to original point or more or less where it cranked the best

Assuming it ran before you started fixing it...please take that in a good way...I've been right where you're at...albeit on another vehicle.

Checklist.
Intake and Carb pathways are are clear of debris, gasket material etc.
Idle screw(s)..were they turned too far and are now closed.
Bottom of carb ..the venturi vent(s) (if any) are pivoting freely.
Fuel Line is clear..did you disconnect it at carb and pump and then from the pump to the tank and blow out lines with compressed air (if available)
Is your fuel tank clean and free of debris?..
Filter (if any) is clean and clear or new
Lines all connected
Fuel pump pumping...is fuel coming out the line where it plugs into carb?
Choke opening closing correctly
Plugs clean
Plug Wires connected in correct firing order
Is spark jumping from end of wire?
Ignition wires connected correctly

Shees, I can't think of anything else to check these things aren't that complicated and will run even with a wire or two crossed...I've never had a Ford truck just not run when at least these things present as "all accounted for".


This list may seem redundant but dad always said it's that one last go 'round that gets it done...

One last thing...sometimes these trucks will start "better" with the vacuum advance disconnected and the line to it plugged.

TH1567
Just another wheeled vehicular conveyance heading down the road toward who knows where.

 

All have been checked and i have no backfire...It just won't start. I will make a post if i can't figure that out. Thanks So much for all your help and expertise. Thanks :]

 

Do you have a remote starter switch handy? Have you checked your fuses? Are all grounds tight? check any and all wires top of motor area you might have bumped one.

 

Change your oil now that you cranked and cranked on it... cheap money compared to damaged cause by running on ultra thinned out earl..

TH1567
Another yayhoo on the highway on the big highway to who knows where...but I'm in a Ford and I'm doing fine.

 

remote starter switch? never heard of one...ill read up on it and maybe get one if its not too expensive or indispensible. I'll check fuses tomorrow morning.

 

I had a similar problem until recently. mine started but would bog down coming off idle and pop through the carb all the time. finally got around to checking the timing (which i was "sure" was correct), turns out my distributor was walking around on me and my timing was now 3 or 4 degrees retarded. a good twist made the thing purr, had to turn my idle screw way down to ease the roar. My question is the further i advance it, the better it seems to run, clockwise until it stops is i think about 20 deg. adv. . is it possible that i'm off a tooth ?

 

Well ive toyed with the timing plenty, and its something else, so i'm getting the carb rebuilt, and im fixing the intake manifold (there was broken bolt that used to affix the inttake to exhaust manifold)

 

Yep, noticed the same thing on my 66 352, the further I advance the better it gets..I have no clue how many degrees BTDC I am..but I think my engine is so worn in it don't really matter a whole lot ..so long as it runs good for now..I don't care...

Good shot on getting that carb rebuilt..it that ain't it...well at least you've got that behind you...

TH1567
I jumped in my F100 as her face hardened...I didn't care, it was time to roll...so I did.

 

This is something new. I took off and put on the intake again, and it turns out i had forgotten to put in a bolt. this didnt solve the backfiring, but it did fix a leak

 

You'll get it handled here presently...and when you do..you'll be p'rt near an expoit...

TH1567
Tasty waves, cool Buds and I'm fine! - D McKinney circa 1987

 

Start at the basics.

Put the engine at top dead center for number one cyl. This can be verified by watching the pointer and feeling the pressure push out of the number 1 cyl plug hole.

Once there remove the valve cover. Each the intake and exhaust valves for number 1 should be in the full closed position. If not then your timing chain has worn and slipped causing errattic time leaving a valve in the open position when the dizzy fires the spark plug.

Back fire in the carb is a direct timing issue as it has a intake valve either in the open position allowing spark to ignite the fuel/air in the intake. Or a wiped lobe on the cam floating the valve. Tyically the intake valves wont cook and the exhausts on the 223 are sodium filled to help them from being burned. did you run the engine with the exhaust manifold off to watch the kewl blue flames?

The timing chain is an easy replacment on the 223 with the correct balance pulled and installing tool and paying attention to the install. Thay do not install like a chevy or any other ford engine, both the Y block and 223 had the horizontal and pin count timing sets.

It prolly needs a new set any way. Also the dizzy may need service with new bushings to cure errattic float on the points. It can even drive a pertronix unit crazy with misfires.

Garbz

 

Alright...i wish i didnt have to go this far to get it running...but i guess i have to..

 

Well i got my carb back from the shop put it on and cranked it...more spitting, so i know its a valve or timing chain issue...Thanks for all the help guys

 

If it's firing through the carb it means that the dist is firing with the intake valves open, indicating a timing issue.