Wiring Question on Cab Swap
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Wiring Question on Cab Swap
I just swapped a cab from a 75 f100 2wd to my 77 F250 4wd. I am using both harnesses in order to complete this task. The truck will crank and it is getting fuel, but it does not get any spark. What could possibly be the problem. Some of the wiring was alittle different but I used a wiring diagram and spliced them accordingly. The only wire in question is a wire that comes from the coil that is supposed to run to the EGR valve and back to the sarter relay. I can not find this wire in any of the harnesses from either truck . If this wire was not hooked up would it show these symptoms? All help will be appreciated. Other than this problem the swap has been very enjoyable THANKS
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
There is supposed to be a resistor wire already there.
Every Ford truck from 1960 and later has one type or another.
1973/79: D7AZ12250A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY-213)
49" long / Color coded Red with Green stripes / #16 gauge wire / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance.
Every Ford truck from 1960 and later has one type or another.
1973/79: D7AZ12250A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY-213)
49" long / Color coded Red with Green stripes / #16 gauge wire / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance.
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Yeah, I got that problem resolved thanks for the advice. Now I need some wiring assistance again. I am running a gauge style instrument panel from the 75 , the 77 truck was set up for idiot lights. I have spliced the wires to their color coordinated counterparts , but when the key is in the on position the needle for the oil gauge pegs and then slowly drops back to the low side, it does the same thing with the truck running as well. Do I have a ground disconnected somewhere or is there something else that I am missing? Thanks for all your help.
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the 77 has a 351 m and the sending unit was already removed when I bought the truck ,it had a sftermarket guage installed. I want to use the dash gauge . I purchased a sending unit from autozone but I wasn't sure which one I needed. There are two different ones listed for this motor. The one I installed looks kike a nut and it screws into the block, it has a wire terminal on the top of it. The other one that is used on this motor is larger and is shaped like an acorn with a wire terminal on top . Which one do I need?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Northern California
The one shaped like an acorn is the one you want.
However, ask for a sending unit for a truck with gauges.
As for the other wiring, you are probably going to have charging issues, and/or ammeter not working issues.
The main harness between gauges, and warning lights are vastly different. Even the same colored wires go to different places between harnesses.
I recommend next time getting the apropriate harness. Save yourself a lot of heartache.
However, ask for a sending unit for a truck with gauges.
As for the other wiring, you are probably going to have charging issues, and/or ammeter not working issues.
The main harness between gauges, and warning lights are vastly different. Even the same colored wires go to different places between harnesses.
I recommend next time getting the apropriate harness. Save yourself a lot of heartache.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
the 77 has a 351 m and the sending unit was already removed when I bought the truck ,it had a sftermarket guage installed. I want to use the dash gauge . I purchased a sending unit from autozone but I wasn't sure which one I needed. There are two different ones listed for this motor. The one I installed looks kike a nut and it screws into the block, it has a wire terminal on the top of it. The other one that is used on this motor is larger and is shaped like an acorn with a wire terminal on top . Which one do I need?
Current Ford & Motorcraft part numbers:
With a light: D4AZ9278A (Motorcraft SW1311): 1/3" the size of t'other one
Original stamped: #6.
MSRP: $12.51 / FTEpartsguy.com price: $6.76
---------------------------------------------
With a gauge: E4ZZ9278A (Motorcraft SW1547B): Large dome shaped.
Original stamped: #8.
MSRP: $33.29 / FTEpartsguy.com price: $17.98
E4ZZ-9278-A replaced: C9ZZ-9278-A / C7ZZ-9278-A & two additional #'s I can't recall.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,326
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From: Middle TN
You must swap the the wiring harness coming off the alternator. It's about two foot long and is important for correct operation of the alt gage. Gages and idiot lights have a different harness at the alternator. Easy to swap takes about 30 min.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
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From: Austin, TX
In reference to your first post - there should be no wire running to the EGR valve. It is completely vacuum-operated. There are some early systems with vacuum solenoids that cut vacuum to the valve based on speedometer speed and ambient temperature (not very common) but even then, no wiring goes to the valve on these early systems.