engine sputering with white smoke?
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Central Coast CA
engine sputering with white smoke?
my truck will sputter when idling and put out white smoke sometimes, but when i give it throttle it goes away, i replaced the fuel and air filter, but before i did it would do that and idle fine then sputer and die. i think it might be air intusion, or maybe the injectors or timing? any help is apreciated because i am stumped.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: portsmouth n.h.
sounds like a head gasket
i believe that white smoke means coolant is entering the combustion chamber, via the headgasket, is your oil milky?, check it out, and check the level of coolant in the radiator
i believe that white smoke means coolant is entering the combustion chamber, via the headgasket, is your oil milky?, check it out, and check the level of coolant in the radiator
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
White smoke could be coolant in the combustion chamber or it could be unburnt fuel.
May even be excess oil through the CDR.
What does he white smoke smell like?
Sweet is coolant
Fuel smell is unburnt fuel.
May even be excess oil through the CDR.
What does he white smoke smell like?
Sweet is coolant
Fuel smell is unburnt fuel.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,242
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From: Joliet, Illinois
If the head gasket were letting coolant in the chamber, it would also be letting combustion gases in to the coolant, building huge coolant pressures in a cold engine real fast.
There is also the possibility the number 8 cylinder is pin-holed as they tend to do with a lack of proper coolant additives and maintenance.
And they have a test to see if there are combustion gases mixing into the coolant.
I would just get an injector seal/O ring kit and replace all the seals and O rings in the injector lines from the pump to the injectors (as I would think this is the most likely to be the issue) before you start tearing the heads off.
There is also the possibility the number 8 cylinder is pin-holed as they tend to do with a lack of proper coolant additives and maintenance.
And they have a test to see if there are combustion gases mixing into the coolant.
I would just get an injector seal/O ring kit and replace all the seals and O rings in the injector lines from the pump to the injectors (as I would think this is the most likely to be the issue) before you start tearing the heads off.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
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Has the IP been replaced lately, or shortly before the problem began occurring? Retarded injection timing can make some white smoke, especially when the engine is fairly cold, and it does go away when you give it throttle too.
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Central Coast CA
thanks guys for the help, im pretty shure it isnt cavitaition or a blow head gasket because the white smoke is only temporary until i give it throttle or just let it sit there and chug away. where can i buy a seal/O ring kit online?
oh and when i am driving under no load, just cruzing it will rev a little like it is running out of fuel and then go back to normal. thats what makes me think this might be air intrusion.
oh and when i am driving under no load, just cruzing it will rev a little like it is running out of fuel and then go back to normal. thats what makes me think this might be air intrusion.
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Central Coast CA
oh, and the white smoke is unburnt fuel,
the ip has never been replaced. and it does this no matter the temp.
i had a friend who told me that the "sock" in the tank is clogged or something and the pump is sucking on it creating a vacuum in the fuel system. which makes sense because it doesn't do the rev up or jump under heavy acceleration.
the ip has never been replaced. and it does this no matter the temp.
i had a friend who told me that the "sock" in the tank is clogged or something and the pump is sucking on it creating a vacuum in the fuel system. which makes sense because it doesn't do the rev up or jump under heavy acceleration.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
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If you're certain tis unburnt fuel, try advancing the pump a bit - scribe a mark on both the pump mounting flange and the gear housing mounting flange, then loosen the three nuts that hold the pump to the housing (they take 9/16 wrench, have fun wit the one near the thermostat), and looking at the engine from in the front of the truck turn the pimp CCW (so from inside the cab that'd be clockwise position), then tighten down the nuts. You do this with the engine OFF!!! I'd suggest you try a small advance at first, 1/16" distance between the marks you scribed is about 4 degrees at the crankshaft, so shoot for that maybe. I advanced my pump about 8 degrees (so about 1/8" at the flange marks) from where it was when I got the truck, but tis a replacement pump so who knows how it was set in the beginning, probably pretty retarded as truck used to smoke real goo when idling cold, now tis all peaches.
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Central Coast CA
If you're certain tis unburnt fuel, try advancing the pump a bit - scribe a mark on both the pump mounting flange and the gear housing mounting flange, then loosen the three nuts that hold the pump to the housing (they take 9/16 wrench, have fun wit the one near the thermostat), and looking at the engine from in the front of the truck turn the pimp CCW (so from inside the cab that'd be clockwise position), then tighten down the nuts. You do this with the engine OFF!!! I'd suggest you try a small advance at first, 1/16" distance between the marks you scribed is about 4 degrees at the crankshaft, so shoot for that maybe. I advanced my pump about 8 degrees (so about 1/8" at the flange marks) from where it was when I got the truck, but tis a replacement pump so who knows how it was set in the beginning, probably pretty retarded as truck used to smoke real goo when idling cold, now tis all peaches.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,242
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From: Joliet, Illinois
There is a sharper angled wrench that makes the one "P.I.T.A." nuts of the injection pump easier to work on.
And there should be a notch, or line, in the pump and the mounting surface that you line up for "FACTORY CORRECT" timing.
And there should be a notch, or line, in the pump and the mounting surface that you line up for "FACTORY CORRECT" timing.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2007
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the fuel tank has no sock in it in only a pickup screen
which are prone to disentigrate with age and your truck is due for it to happen
the problem will show up when under a half tank of fuel is present and the sending unit ingests air
as far as the timing being able to drift this is pretty much a non issue due to all components are gear driven and would require a serious amount of wear in the timing gear train , of which i have never seen
which are prone to disentigrate with age and your truck is due for it to happen
the problem will show up when under a half tank of fuel is present and the sending unit ingests air
as far as the timing being able to drift this is pretty much a non issue due to all components are gear driven and would require a serious amount of wear in the timing gear train , of which i have never seen
