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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 12:36 PM
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Dealer Question

Took my 99 PSD in for a hard start when warm problem. They say I need to replace the IPR, fuel pump and fuel pick up assembly, which means I need to drop the tank. I've never heard of the fuel pick up going bad, does the screen just need to be cleaned or do I really have to pay 450.00 for a new fuel pick up. Anyone ever had this problem.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 12:43 PM
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Can you tell us what tests the dealer did and how they came to these conclusions?

Yes there is a screen in the fuel pick up assembly. Many here have done in tank mods to remove it and just added a filter between the tank and pump. There is a part on the pick up that might need replacing, but from what I understand it's the same part off a 150 that you can make work for your truck. I remember reading about it, but would have to go look for the info.

Did they have poor fuel pressure readings off of a gauge? It seems odd to me that an electrical fuel pump would only cause problems with a warm engine.

How long does it take to start when the engine is warm?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 12:49 PM
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I don't know what tests they ran, but when I try to start it warm, it will crank sometimes for 15 to 20 sec. and sometimes I have to stop cranking and wait about 20 to 30 min to start. So I can somehow remove the screen and add an in-line filter.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 12:52 PM
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Yes by all means! You will still need to drop the tank, but you do NOT need a new sending unit. I think I did all of the mods for around 20$. This is called the hutch mod, or pre pump fuel mods.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 12:57 PM
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Are there any posts on how to do this mod.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 12:59 PM
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Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page

Here ya go! Very simple to do, and shouldnt take long, just remember to try to drive your truck almost empty, that fuel tank can get quite heavy. Another thing, when you remove the BIG ring from around the tank, take the ring and set it in the sun, makes it much easier to reinstall.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 01:00 PM
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this will take car of the screen in the tank...click on my mods and fixes link in my sig...look up hutch and harpoon mod there...
ITP 7.3L Fuel Tank / Pre-Pump Kit
 
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 01:05 PM
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Keep in mind that the in tank mods alone will probably not fix your problem, but it should save you the $450 the dealer wants for the unit.

If the fuel pump really is bad, I think they're around $150 and you'll have to drop another $5 on a fuel line disconnect tool. I don't know the cost of the IPR bu we can walk you through that change too.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 01:11 PM
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I believe the IPR can be had for 180$ from TE. My fuel pump in my truck went out and the long crank did not exist. My problem was higher RPM's. At idle it help 62PSI, when I got on it, it went from 62 to 0. So I had to get a new pump. Yours maybe an IPR, but you might want to check to see how they tested that.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 01:31 PM
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If you're real handy, here's a link to fixing the IPR yourself. Might save you some bucks to play with later:

New Page 0

Pop
 
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 01:49 PM
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Thanks guys for all your help. I'm pretty handy just new to diesel. I replaced the ipr o rings but i didn't open it up, so i guess i can open it up and see if theres any debris. The dealer said stored hard fault for fuel pump, fuel pump internal short, replace fuel pick up and fuel pump. Could the fuel pump be clogged?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 01:54 PM
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I dont think it will become clogged with the stock filters inside the tank. They wont tell you how they came up with faulty IPR?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 01:56 PM
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Sorry for the

Where is the best place to get all the supplies for the "Hutch" mod? I have no Idea where to ge some S.S. tubing, tube bender, and connections... I'm thinking Home Depot or Lowes...

Also, where can I get the Filter and the filter mount? maybe Oreilly's, NAPA or Auto zone If possible, does anyone have part numbers?

I know ITP Diesel has a complete kit. I just think buying everything and doing it yourself would be cheaper. $160 just seems high...

Thanks for the help guys!
 
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 01:58 PM
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The service guy at the dealer said ipr but im looking at the paper and the part listed is the icp sensor. I did my own test for the icp sensor which showed it was ok. I think they just pulled the code which was there from when I disconnected the icp
 
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Old Jul 18, 2008 | 02:05 PM
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Yup, the ICP code was still stored on the pcm.

For the supplies I went to a parts store and used brake line. Didnt have a problem with the year I had it in my tank, and when I removed it, it still looked fine and is still sitting there even though nothing runs through it. Tubing bender I already had, but I think autozoo would loan that out.

For the filter, talk to TennPSD, he was using a simple inline filter last I heard, since you have water separator and a 2 micron filter on top of the motor, the one before the pump is only for anything that might get in your tank.
 
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