Driver window motor inop. Planning on replacing. FSM talks around the
subject and Haynes indicates that the 4 rivets holding the motor need
to be drilled out. I am ok with all this, however, are there any additional
steps to take? Concerned about regulator and how it is attached to the
motor gear. Will the motor allow for R&R or will the regulator need to come
out too? If it does, what should I watch out for to make sure the glass
won't free fall or what do I need to do to disengage the window from the
regulator. Looking for some cautionary guidance prior to "Tearing into it".
Regards

 

Good write up here, for starters:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...n-93-f150.html

I've done both sides of my truck. The discussions here pretty much cover it.

When the window was stuck up I taped it to the frame to keep it from falling.

 

Boz,
Thanks for the lead. Just don't want to get in over my head without
proper prep..

Regards,

 

It's easy, I've done both of my doors:

1. Disconnect battery ground cable

2. remove door trim panel

3. disconnect the window motor wiring harness

4. There are 2 dimples in the door panel, opposite the 2 concealed motor retaining bolts. Using a 1/2 in. drill bit, drill out these dimples to gain access to the motor bolts. Be careful to avoid damage to the wires.

5. Remove the 3 motor mounting bolts.

6. Push the motor towards the outside of the door to disengage it from the gears. You'll have to support the glass once the motor is disengaged. Lay and old towel over the top of the door (so you won’t damage the paint) then run duct tape over the top of the door and down both sides of the glass.

7. Remove the motor from the door.

8. Installation is the reverse of removal. To avoid rusting in the drilled area, prime and paint the exposed metal, or cover the holes with waterproof body tape. Torque the motor mounting bolts to 50-85 inch lbs. Make sure that the motor works properly before installing the trim panel.

9. Check switch for proper up/down operation BEFORE you put the inside door panel back on because sometimes a new/rebuilt motor will have the wires reversed on them.

 

CC,
Thanks for the note, I will proceed with the instructions in mind.
My beggest fear was the window support and motor to regulator
interface.

Regards,

 

On mine, the duct tape on both sides of the glass took care of the window support problem. The interface between the motor gear and the regulator is really simple because they are fairly large gear teeth and they mesh easily with just a little wiggle of the motor assembly.

 

CC & All,
I do appreciate the notes on what to do. I finished the task yesterday
and everything works well. Biggest fear was not being able to get clear
guidance out of FSM and Haynes as to how to remove the motor. The
"Dimple" drill out advise was a godsend! When I looked at the situation and
realized what was said about the drilling, it all made sense. R&R of the motor
was smooth, gently let the window slide to the bottom of its run with gravity
and did the swapout. I didn't tear into the motor, simply bought a tube of
white lithium grease and a remanufactured motor for all under $50 and the
job is done....
For the first timer on these motors, the one thing I learned was that you
must be able to access the motor mounting bolts (3). The manuals didn't do
justice as to how important and simple that task is. For that, I am not
pleased with Haynes or the FSM... Anyway, I am happy that the window
moves as it should and with a one year warranty, yee-haw, I can go to the
bank, postal drop box, fast food and anywhere I need to and "Not" have to
open the damn door to do business. Great help from all of you that have
learned this motor swap skill. Thank you again.

 

Bumpity bump.

Just giving a two thumbs up to this thread...I found it by searching and it helped. By describing the access to the motor mounting screws I was able to get the thing out quickly. I discovered the motor worked fine, and somehow the window regulator had flexed enough to jam the whole affair. I freed it, lubed it, lubed the window channels with McLube Sail-Kote (the BEST dry lube around) and it works like new. Took about an hour.

Knock on wood.

 

For future reference in case anyone else needs a visual.



You can see where the two holes were drilled out. The third bolt can be accessed by simply trimming or bending the metal back slightly as in the pic.