Have been having trouble starting ,will turn over but not start .Had code 344 so I changed cam sensor it wouldnt start then found a corroded wire fixed that and then it started ,drove it 3 miles then it died and wouldnt restart so towed home and ran codes again.344 340 603.I did the 3 tests on the wires that was in a repair manual all were suppose to read 5 volts but the light blue wire to dark green wire reads 12.4 which I assume is full battery power .Does anyone know whats wrong?

 

You have come to the right place for a fix and Welcome to FTE.
We probably need more info:
1- found corroded wire...where and to what does it go
2- what 3 tests did you perform
3- What reads 5 volts
4- Where are the wires you are talking about, light blue/dark green etc.
5- What other work has been done on the vehicle, Modifications, recent repairs, etc.

Post up some more info and we will be glad to help you.

 

joepf, welcome to FTE

What were the wires?

What wires did you test.

P0340 See below
P0344 = Long crank time with no start (Common)
P0603 = Battery was disconnected (Common)

No start at times; Intermittent stalling while driving during warm-up or when hot, usually restarts; Power "hitch" at cruise or under load; Possible DTC#'s P0340, P0341, P0344:

Cam Position (CMP) sensor.
The CMP sensor provides the PCM with cylinder ID and engine RPM. Sometimes hard to detect, even with a scan tool while monitoring the RPM signal. If the PCM does not receive a clear CMP signal, it won't signal the Injector Driver Module (IDM) to energize the injector solenoids.

If this symptom occurs, or if you find one or more of the above codes, check the wiring to the CMP for continuity--BOB pin 90 to CMP pin B; BOB pin 65 to CMP pin A; BOB pin 49 to CMP pin C. NOTE: A code P0344 may be set any time the engine is cranked for an excessive period of time.

Early CMP sensors were @ 1.152" in length, and with the different materials--plastic sensor, aluminum timing cover, steel tone ring) the air gap would change drastically during engine warm-up. There were TSB's published for shimming the sensors 0.010" to cure these problems as well as the drastic repair of replacing the camshaft--something a Navistar tech assist rep recommended not doing even if excessive end play was verified.

There have been two updates to the CMP. One to decrease the length to 1.142", and also to improve the internal circuitry for less "noise". The CMP designed for engines built after serial number 375549 have gold-plated terminals and cannot be substituted with those designed for previous engines.

94-96 CMP: F6TZ-12K073-A; original Navistar part suffix C-96, C-97; replaced by C-98; replaced by C-99

97 CMP: F7TZ-12K073-A; early suffix C-91; replaced by late suffex C-92; both replaced by C-93.

The suffex is stamped on the connector end of the CMP and can be used to identify the level of the part installed. Replace any CMP's with a suffex of C-96, 97, 91 if these symptoms are experienced. Lube the o-ring and connector with silicone dielectric grease when installing.

Thanks to dieselmann for the above description.

 

Neal, you are too fast for me. I need to learn how to Copy & Paste quicker

 

answers
#1
there was 2 wires that went to the positive on battery they had fusible links.I repaired area after the links.one went to the IDM and I dont know where the other on went. The IDM had no power to it before I fixed wire.
#2-3-4
The 3 tests were for cam sensor
test said to back probe light blue wire with neg lead and dark green wire with positve lead while turning camshaft damper bolt slowly with socket and breaker bar.results were 12.4 volts and book said should fluctuate from 0 to 5 volts.
The next test was brown wire/white stripe with pos lead and neg on good ground ,that showed 5 volts, which book said it should be.
Last test was brown wire /white stripe with pos lead and light blue wire with neg lead.results were 5 volts so that showed ok also.
#5
Only thing that has been done recently is had oil changed 1 week earlier at a Mobil 1 place.

 

Stupid simple question; di dyou check the oil?
Sorry had to ask.

 

Does the tach move while cranking? If not the CPS or wiring/connector is bad.
The CPS can be bad right out of the box or within a very short time.
The best way to check the CPS is with a good scanner.

 

Does the wait to start light come on when the key is turned to 'on'?
Check all the fuses under the hood? Especially #9 & #22

 

Those test are the correct ones. When you checked the Lt-Blue with negitive lead and Dk-Green with positive lead was the CPS still connected? The book is correct, it should of read 0 - 5 volts as you rotated the crank. The CPS has to be connected to see the 0 - 5 volts. The other two tests can be done with with CPS unplugged.

Lt-Blue wire is gnd wire to computer.
Dk-Green wire is CPS output to computer.
Brn-Wht wire is vref or +5 volts.

 

Oil is full. It doesnt have a tach . I will read book with scanner to see if it does a cps test.The wait light does come on and then shut off when ready. When I did the test of lt blue to drk green it was unplugged how do you do it when its plugged in?

 

Use a tiny needle to pierce the Dk-Green wire (CPS output) and hook positive lead to it and use battery or frame ground on negitive lead then redo test.

 

put a new cps sensor ,one bought from ford( the ones from checkers and auto zone didnt work) and now it runs .the power from the lt blue to drk green now reads 7 vlts will it run ok like that?

 

also ran codes again and now shows P1111 and p1219 ? the other codes from earlier are gone.