I finally got my shocks and stabilizer in ( ground to AK.), 5 weeks. I had a rattling outer mount and some seepage from the steering stabilizer, so I figured it to be time. The rig just turned 70,000, so We got shocks as well.
I went with skyjacker. Besides being able to look them up on line and a couple places here carrying them, I,m not sure why? Twin tube, velocity sensing, urethane bushings, yada yada.
Today I went to work putting the stabilizer on. The body of a twin tube you expect to be larger. So I measured clearances as if the manufacturer had not. I was working with part#7099 said to be OEM replacement. Extension and compression, diameter, all seamed fine. The washer under the shaft mounting eyelet ( for mounting the small end of a boot) seemed abit large, and did hit the linkage bracket so I ground the side I would be placing against the bracket, enough to accommodate the boot thickness. Then I clear coated (w/pearl) the shock.
After drying for an hour or so, I went for the install. I lubed the poly bushings, installed the bolt collars( metal bushing inserts) and put her up there. All went well till I tryed to tighten the shaft eyelet to spec (60 lb). The stock configuration didn't use a washer under the nut so I didn't use the really loose on the bolt one that comes with the kit (includes three ?).With all tightened and the boot on, I had the wife turn the steering lock to lock. Under compression the boot smashed between the bracket u-bolt and the shock body and between the bracket and shock body. Cut it up real good. I then rounded the back of the bracket hoping to gain enough clearance for the boot. Again lock to lock, Cut the heck out of the boot, only this time I noticed multiple cuts in the top of the boot as well( or again also ),Yikes. So I cut the boot off. Then checked clearance without it. The shock body hits the bracket and u-bolt, dead solid. Even after grinding round the back of the linkage bracket round, it gets into it about 1/16th. The shock body diameter is about 1/4"to large to duck under the u-bolt. It gets into it about 1/8th" and still needs 1/8" more travel room for full compression.
Sorry, for the winded story, but I figured someone should let anyone leaning that way know about the possible defect in what is billed as an OEM replacement. From what You Know? Should I even try the shocks? Front N8023s and rear N8060s
Maybe with the after market steering linkage bracket the stabilizer works (with boot ?). Anyone know? Oh - yes I checked the placement of my stock bracket. Thanks for the read. Don

 

After all that, I did remove the unit, and won't be using it. Without a grand fix. I also noted the shaft eyelet steel bushing had twisted under the OE nut as it was tightened. One of the split sides had went into the bracket hole and the other crushed. So for a third time I tried with a new inner collar from my shock kits/ propperly snug around the bolt flange washer, and still had the same clearance problems.
Thanks again.

 

I had to do some grinding to my '01's stock stabilizer mounts to get a Rancho to fit - Not sure if it was billed as an OEM replacement or not, I used it after getting advice here on FTE.

The boot was cut to shreds pretty quickly too...

I figure I'll go to a dual setup sooner or later...

Sorry, don't have an answer, I just know your pain

 

Thanks for the chat back. I'm fixn to give skyjacker a call. It may not help but , Ya know.

 

It wouldn't be the first time a manufacturer listed the wrong part number.

 

I am sorry to hear about your difficulties. Have you tried to return the product yet? I would demand a refund asap! I installed a rough country dual in line steering stabilizer on my truck. Overall I am very pleased with it and it cost less than $100. The only complaint I have about it, is the U-bolt that wraps around the axle for the bracket. It is too short. I needs to be about 1/2" longer on both sides for a more secure fit.

 

I called Skyjacker and asked a few questions. First I asked about The aftermarket (they provide ) Drop bracket that mounts to the drag link. In there instruction page they show the stabilizer kit(#7099W) using the stock bracket as an OEM replacement. Then further down the sheet they show Kit #7199W with a Bracket . I asked the customer service gent. if he could tell me if there bracket, made any concessions to accommodate the stabilizer. Such as dimensional changes. He didn't know, But went to find out for me(good hearted fella). When he came back he said the shock mounting hole was dropped 1/4-1/2" on theirs. In the instructional illustrations its shown to mount to the back of the drag link, unlike stock that mounts to the front and has a kilter ed dimple to achieve eyelet alignment ( why did Ford do this ?).Maybe a strengthening issue? Don't know, but the rear mount seams strait across at any rate.
The part #7199-B (there bracket) and U-bolts 516x114x134U(bolt dimensions) all come with kit #7199w, Arg! , I'll be needing.
All tho. If I drill a hole just below the stock location and MIG a large flange washer on the front and a 1/4" spacer (Multi washers or machined steel stock) to the back of the hole to move the eyelet down and back abit I might be able to avoid the shipping and parts cost. Time is money though. Would that much welding harden the drop bracket to much?

 

Really sorry to be so longwinded but , In the lock to lock check I ran the shock body into the U-bolt and bracket 3 or 5 times. The bracket( before I ground it round) just nicked the shock body edge, but the U-bolt pushed the shock down about 1/8th" and kept it there threw about an 1/8th" at the end of compression. If its not leaking now from seal side loading, should the shock be fine?

 

First of all, I hope this saga doesn't render anyone sleepy eyed. But , I went to installing my skyjacker front shocks today (prt# 8023) . All went well but for one glitch. The top urethane bushings are about 1/4" to wide. The kit for each shock comes with a bushing and internal metal collar for each eyelet. My 04 utilizes no upper collar, the bushing fits over the stock upper mount without any need for a collar, so the 1/4" extra bushing didn't become real obvious till I snugged up the stock retaining nut w/captured washer. I split the second upper bushing as I snugged it up, but the first didn't split in 6 or so places, until it sat for a few moments while I installed the second shock.
So I removed both shocks, and removed the top eyelet bushings (now junk). I had two bushings from the stabilizer (not installed), so I ground 1/8" off both sides of them, and put them in the upper eyelets. Second install went great for the uppers (only slight compression of bushings) ,But beware, the lower inner metal collars seam to crush under full 75Lb of recommended torque. I stopped around 60lb or so. The lower mounting ears on the spring pack shouldn't be brought together till they crush the bushing. Yikes!

 

Turns out my stock drag-link bracket u-bolts, had been tightened beyond the strength rating of the brackets plate steel. Forming a slight V. The V of the bracket is what drove the new shock body high enough to hit the U-bolt under full compression. Still don't know about the contact with bracket but the original does have a twist to it. I went with the skyjacker bracket and it to bent slightly with about 18lb applied to the u-bolt nuts. Because it mounts behind the drag-link with u-bolts to the front, away from the shock contact point, the angle change caused no complication. There mount utilizing a (spacer base) stud also creates room for the bellows of the boot.
I had to grind (then sand smooth) all the bushings that went on stud mounts, so as not to split anymore, but all seem snug now. The stabilizer boot had to have five or so bellows pulled over the shock body so as not to require more space for full compression, between the shock body and eyelet. I zip tide it at the body edge to keep the bellows from pulling off. It might stay on the eyelet end at full extension now , but -30 or so, might be asking a bit. Just wanted to clear up earlier misgivings.

 

Seems like an awful lot of work to put in a stabilizer! I don't even have one. Btw, you are better off without the boot, as it'll just trap dirty water and will promote rust on the shock body.

 

Yep, It was all that. But the Steering feel is so nice and stable. Real stable compared to the old unit(no longer effected by ruts and small potholes). I found myself precariously steering with a thumb on the open highway, and I do not do that! As for the boot, you may be correct. But my rig sees so much slush, just chock full of road sand(small gravel) that I just had to. I'll keep an eye on it though. I put a new set of drain/breather holes in it just under the shaft seal and opened the formed but not punched set next to the eyelet. At full compression its fully collapsed besides the space around the shaft, so I don't know.If the drain holes plug it will eject the boot from the eyelet end for sure though. As for shock body rust, we don't see much failure from that alone. But I triple clear coated the shocks and after letting them dry several days, applied clear film to the front facing sides to protect from stone chips. I have a old set of Pro Comps with the stickers facing the front and the area under them is the only frontal surface not totally rusted. Best wishes.