When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
its cake man... anyone can do it. i've done it to several trucks (including 2 of my own) and will be happy to answer more specific questions.
if i were you i would buy 1.5" or 1.75" ram from Burden Sales Surplus Center - Hydraulics, Engines, Electrical and More and then get your lines made from a local hydro shop. i went one step further on a couple of builds and bought the reuasble fittings and hose compatible with them so if i needed to repair something on the trail i could. drilling and tapping ford boxes is so easy i am surprised more people havent tried it! if you can slide the piston out without losing all the ball bearings you can do this pretty easy.
one note on the size of the lines just from exeperience, go with at least 3/8". repsonse time is much faster with large hoses and fittings (although one fitting on the box cannot be larger than 1/4"!)
-cutts-
Whats the reason behind having one on the box not any larger than 1/4''.
I'm getting rid of the AN fittings & hoses & getting regular hydraulic hoses made up. The AN fittings seep a little.
Fish, I'm wondering if going 3/8" would do any good for me cause my ram has 1/4" fittings welded on so it's still necked down at the fittings. Any thoughts ?
it cant hurt anything but your wallet. i think, even with the bottleneck you will see a slight increase in response. your AN fittings shouldnt leak at all... shoot they are used for fuel lines and coolant lines! course i dont know if they have a pressure limit.
Originally Posted by Ford150/428/dud
Whats the reason behind having one on the box not any larger than 1/4''.
there physically isnt the room for a larger fitting. if you dril and tap much more than 1/4" i would be worried that there is not enough meat to hold the fitting in under high pressure situations. here is a pic
i admit i still have alot of reading to do, but it doesnt hurt to ask some questions to some people that are already in the know.
thanks for all the great info here guys. im gonna save all the links to refer to later.
cutts, do you have any pics of how and where you attached the ram to your axletube and tie rod? are you running this on your f350? optimal mounting locations is what i really need some ideas for.
I've got one of mine. You can only see the part that is welded to the axle tube, but all you need is two tabs to sandwich the heim on the ram in between. Clean the axle tube, bolt the tabs onto the ram, weld it up. Mine ended up a little crooked, but just try to get it parallel to the tie rod both vertically and horizontally so you aren't applying any awkward vector forces. If I were to redo one end of mine, I'd raise the tie rod end some
DONT forget to cover up the piston rod thingy part, if you get pits in it, you'll just slowly leak a little fluid and chance bringing contaminants like dirt into the system every time you steer past that point.
One thing that no one has mentioned is that its a good idea to run a cooler. It gives you added fluid to draw from and keeps you cool. I plumbed mine inline with the low pressure side returning from the steering box back to the pump.
Definitely. It is a great mod that not only makes steering easier, but takes a lot of pressure and stress off of you steering box and especially your sector shaft. I had read about too many broken sector shafts and decided that my rebuilt box was worth the extra $200. You can do this mod for $150 easily if you have a good local hydro shop to make your hoses and get your cooler from the junkyard. Before metal went up so much you probably could have done this for right around $100 with good shopping.
I did this when I was 16 (IIRC), and I knew almost nothing at the time. That thread on FSB is so complete and depicts everything very well, making it a no hassle process.
However, you'll get hooked. I can't wait to go full hydro.
However, you'll get hooked. I can't wait to go full hydro.
holy crap... you aint kiddin! it taunts me everytime i go to the shop!
heres barely one side...
and heres barely the other side...
you get the idea.
one note though i see all the time, if you plan to really wheel i strongly suggest mounting the tie rod mount to one side or the other, NOT in the middle. i bent my tie rod twice (even after reinforcement) and have seen first hand wheelin buddies bend their tie rods with the mount welded in the middle!
IMO, if someone has to ask how to do something as simple as a hydro assist then they aren't capable.
As you guys have already pointed out, there are plenty of posts about this topic already. Enough to find every thing you need.
not to stir the pot or rock the boat but i totally and wholeheartedly disagree to the fullest extent. your usage of words is what i don't agree with mainly. TRUE if someone is inquiring about how to do something as 'simple' (which if you look at the specifics isn't exactly coloring between the lines) as hydro assist they need to do a LOT more research and tinkering. However, to say that BECAUSE someone is asking questions about how to perform this simple task they are not physically capable, and therefore they should give up. that's stupid..... stupid and ignorant! if i thought that way i'd still be toying around in my 93 F150 with 6" skyjacker and 33" futura dakotas!
with that said... i (as well as everyone else here) do fully expect those looking to do these mods that they search and search some more as everything has been touched on at least once. then come asking specific questions. however, sometimes you just gotta dive in and get started.
ok, back on topic.
i agree, the sag pump upgrade is a must. the stock plastic pumps will give out when you least expect it!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.