R-134a retrofit steps
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Elder User
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R-134a retrofit steps
The R-12 A/C system on my '91 has been dormant for two years now, having leaked at the evorator core. I unplugged the compressor clutch so it wouldn't cycle needlessly, and suffered through two long hot Texas summertimes.
I am gearing up to retrofit the thing with 134a.
I have bought an 134a O-ring and ester oil kit.
I plan on buying a new drier/accumulator and fixed orifice removal/installation tool, and cleaning all that manually.
I am going to take it to a garage prior to installing any of the new stuff, and have them evacuate the system as completely as possible. After that, I'll flush the system myself and then install new components.
How do I know how much ester oil to introduce?
Ford's service manual talks about "...measuring residual oil in compressor..." and so forth. C'mon, get real.
After this, I think I'll take it back to the same shop and have them recharge the thing.
Any of you veterans have any ideas for me?
Eddie
I am gearing up to retrofit the thing with 134a.
I have bought an 134a O-ring and ester oil kit.
I plan on buying a new drier/accumulator and fixed orifice removal/installation tool, and cleaning all that manually.
I am going to take it to a garage prior to installing any of the new stuff, and have them evacuate the system as completely as possible. After that, I'll flush the system myself and then install new components.
How do I know how much ester oil to introduce?
Ford's service manual talks about "...measuring residual oil in compressor..." and so forth. C'mon, get real.
After this, I think I'll take it back to the same shop and have them recharge the thing.
Any of you veterans have any ideas for me?
Eddie
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Joined: Feb 2000
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R-134a retrofit steps
One suggestion is to check with the AC shop that evacuates your system and have them check their AC Association book on how to retrofit your particular Ford since many Fords require that the compressor be replaced with one that has the proper R134A compatible seals. Using your old R12 compressor may turn out to be penny wise but pound foolish if it's seals fail after a short time.
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From: Wichita USA
R-134a retrofit steps
If your old compressor is a FX10 it will not with stand the added pressures of 134a. Replacements are FX15. The orfice tube is a part of the high side line. The line is not espensive. Flush with AC flush solvent only. As for oil in the system a general rule of thumb is 2oz in the compressor suction side, 1oz for condensor, 3oz for evaporater,1oz for accumulator
all poured into the accumulator. Imo Ford pag oil is better than Ester.
all poured into the accumulator. Imo Ford pag oil is better than Ester.
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 1999
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R-134a retrofit steps
Thanx for the suggestions, fellas. I played hooky for part of the day today and found a smaller, though clean and busy shop, whose A/C guy seemed like he had a clue. I will certainly present him with your ideas tomorrow when I leave my truck with him.
I told him I already have all replacement "O"-rings (new) and he said sealing a Ford system with new "o"-rings was the only way to go, and to make sure I brought them with me. He mentioned leak testing with R-22...is that valid? He said he uses R-22 'cause a), it's heavier and easier to leak test, and b), it's cheap.
I have my doubts about the compressor anyway, and it won't surprise me a bit if it's toast; the original compressor blew up (literally) while on vacation in Michigan, and while I'm sure the shop that replaced it used an OK reconditioned unit, I also don't think they were very familiar with A/C work. Why? A/C quit working 3 days later, almost back to Texas, 110-degrees, whiny kid and even whinier wife, three people crammed in a regular cab,$900.00 VISA bill to that shop, poor me, yada yada yada...
Ed
I told him I already have all replacement "O"-rings (new) and he said sealing a Ford system with new "o"-rings was the only way to go, and to make sure I brought them with me. He mentioned leak testing with R-22...is that valid? He said he uses R-22 'cause a), it's heavier and easier to leak test, and b), it's cheap.
I have my doubts about the compressor anyway, and it won't surprise me a bit if it's toast; the original compressor blew up (literally) while on vacation in Michigan, and while I'm sure the shop that replaced it used an OK reconditioned unit, I also don't think they were very familiar with A/C work. Why? A/C quit working 3 days later, almost back to Texas, 110-degrees, whiny kid and even whinier wife, three people crammed in a regular cab,$900.00 VISA bill to that shop, poor me, yada yada yada...
Ed
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