Replaced the wrong %*&#@ part!
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 882
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From: Wichita
Replaced the wrong %*&#@ part!
My power steering has been getting progressively noisier so I decided to fix it yesterday. I just assumed since the fluid level was correct that the pump was going out. With the pulley removal kit I managed to replaced the pump in about 3 hours. After everything was back together, I started it up to bleed the system. The noise is louder than it was before!! 
It looks like the real problem is in the steering rack. I put a dowel (shade tree listening device) to the pump and to the rack and sure enough, the rack is causing all of the racket. It's possible that the new pump is stronger than the old one thereby amplifying the problem now.
Moral of the story - save some skin, don't assume the problem. Do some troubleshooting first!
Question for you all - can you use ramps to replace the steering rack or does the van need to be on jack stands? Ramps are so much safer.
It looks like the real problem is in the steering rack. I put a dowel (shade tree listening device) to the pump and to the rack and sure enough, the rack is causing all of the racket. It's possible that the new pump is stronger than the old one thereby amplifying the problem now.
Moral of the story - save some skin, don't assume the problem. Do some troubleshooting first!
Question for you all - can you use ramps to replace the steering rack or does the van need to be on jack stands? Ramps are so much safer.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,818
Likes: 3
Rather unusual to have noisy rack, its almost always a pump problem., so its understandable how that would mislead you. Bummer about the wasted effort.
Rack replacement depends on the model. Can't do an AWD from ramps as all the front suspension components have to come off. Standard models are much easier to replace.
Rack replacement depends on the model. Can't do an AWD from ramps as all the front suspension components have to come off. Standard models are much easier to replace.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 5,242
Likes: 0
From: Kiev, Ukraine
VanGo! I replaced my leaking PS pump with Saginaw. Had loud zzzzz, bubbles and foam in reservouar for a week. Then sound dissapeared. To bleed PS fully is ruther impossible. Air comes away for some hours ore days....
What PS pump pressure you had before change? Had you PS pump leaks?
Usually I measure PS pump pressure on idling engine, at 1000 rpm with cold and hot PS fluid.
Sometimes STP PS repare fluid helps to stop zzzz sound for a year ore may be more.
What PS pump pressure you had before change? Had you PS pump leaks?
Usually I measure PS pump pressure on idling engine, at 1000 rpm with cold and hot PS fluid.
Sometimes STP PS repare fluid helps to stop zzzz sound for a year ore may be more.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 882
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From: Wichita
That's hopeful news. Maybe it will settle down in a few days. I didn't have any leaks, just that groaning sound.
I filled the reservoir with synthetic P/S fluid but it is already "contaminated" with fluid from the rest of the system. I plan to remove and replace the reservoir fluid until it is clear again.
I filled the reservoir with synthetic P/S fluid but it is already "contaminated" with fluid from the rest of the system. I plan to remove and replace the reservoir fluid until it is clear again.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,014
Likes: 206
From: SoCal
I noticed that my PS pump ran quieter when I used type-F ATF in it, instead of the recommended Mercon. I did this for only a short time before I found my mistake. I don't know if this is really bad for the components.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
Vango,
Don't blame the rack or the pump yet. Sometime the connection at the pump return line is bad and it's allowing air to be sucked into the pump right at the plastic nipple on the pump housing. Check that and all along the return line for leaks.
If air gets in the return line because of the suction there, no matter how much you try, you'll never be able to purge the rack properly and you'll have a very noisy and jerky rack.
Anyway, just my two cents because that's exactly what happened to me.
------------------------------------
Xlt4wd90,
Type F ATF is correct for Ford P/S pumps. Mercon is the wrong one.
Don't blame the rack or the pump yet. Sometime the connection at the pump return line is bad and it's allowing air to be sucked into the pump right at the plastic nipple on the pump housing. Check that and all along the return line for leaks.
If air gets in the return line because of the suction there, no matter how much you try, you'll never be able to purge the rack properly and you'll have a very noisy and jerky rack.
Anyway, just my two cents because that's exactly what happened to me.
------------------------------------
Xlt4wd90,
Type F ATF is correct for Ford P/S pumps. Mercon is the wrong one.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Wichita
Thanks Copper. The return line just has those cheap spring clamps. I will replace those along with the hose. It was too short to add an inline filter anyway. I want to be sure the filter doesn't get in the way of anything.
Xlt4wd90 -
"Fill the power steering pump reservoir with Motorcraft Type F automatic transmission, or power steering fluid that meets ESW-M2C33-F specifications."
Xlt4wd90 -
"Fill the power steering pump reservoir with Motorcraft Type F automatic transmission, or power steering fluid that meets ESW-M2C33-F specifications."
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
the guys got you on the right path vango
air in lines, PSF cooler, rack and pinion from pump changeout.
takes some time to work out of system.
Ford had a special vacuum system the dealers applied to the fill hole to put negative pressure on the PSF while running in the shop.
Ford systems seem to be the worst to air drain.
also Ford's van design PS pump gets noisy as hell if any air at all in system. also caused hydraulic hammering in system including rack and lines which is what you are hearing
i'd do a running flush and change out the return line pouring fresh ATF/PSF into the reservoir. Start with 2 qts of the cheapest stuff first to flush, run for a week, then 2 qts of a top synthetic for final flush fill. Castrol Import Multi Veh is Mercon/V rated with high level of GrpIV/V syn, also Mobil 1 ATF
air in lines, PSF cooler, rack and pinion from pump changeout.
takes some time to work out of system.
Ford had a special vacuum system the dealers applied to the fill hole to put negative pressure on the PSF while running in the shop.
Ford systems seem to be the worst to air drain.
also Ford's van design PS pump gets noisy as hell if any air at all in system. also caused hydraulic hammering in system including rack and lines which is what you are hearing
i'd do a running flush and change out the return line pouring fresh ATF/PSF into the reservoir. Start with 2 qts of the cheapest stuff first to flush, run for a week, then 2 qts of a top synthetic for final flush fill. Castrol Import Multi Veh is Mercon/V rated with high level of GrpIV/V syn, also Mobil 1 ATF
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Illinois, usa
If you are feeling energetic, it is possible to make a vacuum-pump driven method for quickly evacuating air..I made mine from scratch, with O-ring it held 20hg of vacuum,
started car and let idle for 5-10 minutes, fluid is finally red, instead of frothy pink. I think it is possible to create one by obtaining a cap from junkyard, fitting it with a barbed fitting, glued up, it should hold vacuum. I had the task of creating a pressure brake bleeding device recently after i screwed up my benz's ABS by using the 'ol vacuum pump when I was doing a full fluid exchange--the germans vent the master cylinder to atmosphere, new fluid is called for every 2 years...anyways, i scrounged a new cap for MC at junkyard and drilled it to hold a barbed fitting, which was attached to a small garden sprayer, that was my 'pump'. Worked fine...would work even better with vacuum, as you would need for PS. Don't jump in on a new rack so fast, make sure the air is all out first.
started car and let idle for 5-10 minutes, fluid is finally red, instead of frothy pink. I think it is possible to create one by obtaining a cap from junkyard, fitting it with a barbed fitting, glued up, it should hold vacuum. I had the task of creating a pressure brake bleeding device recently after i screwed up my benz's ABS by using the 'ol vacuum pump when I was doing a full fluid exchange--the germans vent the master cylinder to atmosphere, new fluid is called for every 2 years...anyways, i scrounged a new cap for MC at junkyard and drilled it to hold a barbed fitting, which was attached to a small garden sprayer, that was my 'pump'. Worked fine...would work even better with vacuum, as you would need for PS. Don't jump in on a new rack so fast, make sure the air is all out first.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,776
Likes: 5
From: Lorain County, Ohio
Just a word of caution about applying vacuum th the reservoir. DON'T apply more than about 15" of vacuum. You risk damaging the rack.
I can't say what the damage is, but I ruined 2 new racks on 2 different cars getting heavy handed with the vacuum pump .
10-15" is plenty for bleeding. All you need is a negative pressure.
I have the actual adapter for vacuum bleeding, but you can make one from an old reservoir cap and a tire valve stem. Basically cut off the stick, drill a hole in the recessed area of the cap at the vent hole,and tuck the valve in.
I can't say what the damage is, but I ruined 2 new racks on 2 different cars getting heavy handed with the vacuum pump .
10-15" is plenty for bleeding. All you need is a negative pressure.
I have the actual adapter for vacuum bleeding, but you can make one from an old reservoir cap and a tire valve stem. Basically cut off the stick, drill a hole in the recessed area of the cap at the vent hole,and tuck the valve in.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Wichita
Last night I replaced the return line to add an inline filter and real hose clamps so I introduced more air into the system. It's encouraging to read that I may just have to work the air out to get it working right. It sounds terrible right now.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
I hope we are not assuming that any aero will have quiet power steering. All three of mine make a racket. Has anyone figured out why? Is there a fix? *I know its a design problem so why does the 97 still have it ,you would of thought ford would have changed the pump spec's by then...
Dick
Dick
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Wichita
Hate to bring up an old thread but maybe someone will benefit from it. It has been 1 1/2 weeks since I replaced the power steering pump. It's still louder than the original one that was going bad. Today I took it to my favorite shop for a second opinion. i didn't tell them it was a new pump. They said the pump was bad. He also said the new ones are all somewhat louder than the original because they are cheaply rebuilt.
I bought this Cardone rebuilt pump from Autozone. It has a lifetime warranty and I'm sure I can get another one. Of course my labor is wasted and who knows if the next one will work or for how long. I'm stuck now with getting a warranty replacement. If I had to do it again I would probably spend more and buy an AC Delco or Motorcraft.
I bought this Cardone rebuilt pump from Autozone. It has a lifetime warranty and I'm sure I can get another one. Of course my labor is wasted and who knows if the next one will work or for how long. I'm stuck now with getting a warranty replacement. If I had to do it again I would probably spend more and buy an AC Delco or Motorcraft.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
find a new one if you can
almost impossible to rebuild a vane type power steering pump so that it doesn't howl or make noise.
it costs more to machine the chamber and chromium replate it than new
almost impossible to rebuild a vane type power steering pump so that it doesn't howl or make noise.
it costs more to machine the chamber and chromium replate it than new