how to make big hp
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New User
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how to make big hp
Hey there am the new guy .so I have a 1990 ford f350 I have had form day one and I have been saving money to buy a new truck but when I went to go look at new ones I just couldn’t do it. So now I have about 32.000$ to spend on my truck what I need to know is just about everything you can do to this motor to make big power. thanks
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,255
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From: Sweet Home, OR
My kinda' guy! Don't take that how it sounds! LOL!
I'd much rather have an old truck the way I want it than a stock new truck. No question about it.
If you want to make absolute *****-to-the-wall MEGA power swap in a Cummins out of a Dodge from '94-'98.5. It will have the Bosch P7100 Injection pump and if you're a manual trans. guy, it'll have the NV4500 too. That's A LOT harder to do than building your motor and putting it back in.
If your goals are more realistic I would get a 6.9L from '86 or '87, head stud it, 7.3L valves and rockers, 7.3L Turbo rods, pistons and pins and if you don't TURBO it you're crazy. I don't know which one to use solely for POWER but somebody will chime in.
I'm not sure if going with 7.3L heads is better or worse but I GAURANTEE you Dave S. will be on here to tell you every nut and bolt to put in it. His motor has milled pistons to reduce the compression ratio to run more boost from the turbo. You wont get 4-digit hp and trq. #s from these motors like you can a Cummins but that much power is USELESS in the real world.
I'm a HUGE Cummins fan but when my 369K motor gives up I'm building a 6.9L just like I described above.
One thing to check out is if you can install an older model year motor in you truck where you live. Some states and localities demand that you use a same year or newer motor in your vehicle. If that's the case SLEEVE your 7.3L before you build it.
I'd much rather have an old truck the way I want it than a stock new truck. No question about it.
If you want to make absolute *****-to-the-wall MEGA power swap in a Cummins out of a Dodge from '94-'98.5. It will have the Bosch P7100 Injection pump and if you're a manual trans. guy, it'll have the NV4500 too. That's A LOT harder to do than building your motor and putting it back in.
If your goals are more realistic I would get a 6.9L from '86 or '87, head stud it, 7.3L valves and rockers, 7.3L Turbo rods, pistons and pins and if you don't TURBO it you're crazy. I don't know which one to use solely for POWER but somebody will chime in.
I'm not sure if going with 7.3L heads is better or worse but I GAURANTEE you Dave S. will be on here to tell you every nut and bolt to put in it. His motor has milled pistons to reduce the compression ratio to run more boost from the turbo. You wont get 4-digit hp and trq. #s from these motors like you can a Cummins but that much power is USELESS in the real world.
I'm a HUGE Cummins fan but when my 369K motor gives up I'm building a 6.9L just like I described above.
One thing to check out is if you can install an older model year motor in you truck where you live. Some states and localities demand that you use a same year or newer motor in your vehicle. If that's the case SLEEVE your 7.3L before you build it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
The conrods, wrist pins and pistons from a factory turbo IDI 7.3L will not swap over to a 6.9.
But I do agree that the 6.9 with many of the top end parts of a 7.3 will make the best motor.
What tranny do you have? if its auto, it will need internal upgrades to survive what a built up 6.9 can pump out.
But I do agree that the 6.9 with many of the top end parts of a 7.3 will make the best motor.
What tranny do you have? if its auto, it will need internal upgrades to survive what a built up 6.9 can pump out.
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Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
My kinda' guy! Don't take that how it sounds! LOL!
I'd much rather have an old truck the way I want it than a stock new truck. No question about it.
If you want to make absolute *****-to-the-wall MEGA power swap in a Cummins out of a Dodge from '94-'98.5. It will have the Bosch P7100 Injection pump and if you're a manual trans. guy, it'll have the NV4500 too. That's A LOT harder to do than building your motor and putting it back in.
If your goals are more realistic I would get a 6.9L from '86 or '87, head stud it, 7.3L valves and rockers, 7.3L Turbo rods, pistons and pins and if you don't TURBO it you're crazy. I don't know which one to use solely for POWER but somebody will chime in.
I'm not sure if going with 7.3L heads is better or worse but I GAURANTEE you Dave S. will be on here to tell you every nut and bolt to put in it. His motor has milled pistons to reduce the compression ratio to run more boost from the turbo. You wont get 4-digit hp and trq. #s from these motors like you can a Cummins but that much power is USELESS in the real world.
I'm a HUGE Cummins fan but when my 369K motor gives up I'm building a 6.9L just like I described above.
One thing to check out is if you can install an older model year motor in you truck where you live. Some states and localities demand that you use a same year or newer motor in your vehicle. If that's the case SLEEVE your 7.3L before you build it.
I'd much rather have an old truck the way I want it than a stock new truck. No question about it.
If you want to make absolute *****-to-the-wall MEGA power swap in a Cummins out of a Dodge from '94-'98.5. It will have the Bosch P7100 Injection pump and if you're a manual trans. guy, it'll have the NV4500 too. That's A LOT harder to do than building your motor and putting it back in.
If your goals are more realistic I would get a 6.9L from '86 or '87, head stud it, 7.3L valves and rockers, 7.3L Turbo rods, pistons and pins and if you don't TURBO it you're crazy. I don't know which one to use solely for POWER but somebody will chime in.
I'm not sure if going with 7.3L heads is better or worse but I GAURANTEE you Dave S. will be on here to tell you every nut and bolt to put in it. His motor has milled pistons to reduce the compression ratio to run more boost from the turbo. You wont get 4-digit hp and trq. #s from these motors like you can a Cummins but that much power is USELESS in the real world.
I'm a HUGE Cummins fan but when my 369K motor gives up I'm building a 6.9L just like I described above.
One thing to check out is if you can install an older model year motor in you truck where you live. Some states and localities demand that you use a same year or newer motor in your vehicle. If that's the case SLEEVE your 7.3L before you build it.
what do you think about this (Ford Diesel IDI)
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,255
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From: Sweet Home, OR
The conrods, wrist pins and pistons from a factory turbo IDI 7.3L will not swap over to a 6.9.
But I do agree that the 6.9 with many of the top end parts of a 7.3 will make the best motor.
What tranny do you have? if its auto, it will need internal upgrades to survive what a built up 6.9 can pump out.
But I do agree that the 6.9 with many of the top end parts of a 7.3 will make the best motor.
What tranny do you have? if its auto, it will need internal upgrades to survive what a built up 6.9 can pump out.
I don't think the 7.3 turbo rods are that much better than the NA version anyway. But are they any better than the 6.9L's? If they don't swap it doesen't really matter but I'd like to know.
I'm a manual trans. nut so I'd go woth the ZF-5spd. for sure.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,255
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From: Sweet Home, OR
As far as the reman motor goes: PERSONALLY if I'm building a "custom" motor I want to be hands-on and build it the way I want it, especially a high-power one.
I would find a GOOD machine shop, not necessarily a "race" shop. REALLY do your homework and get somebody good and reliable and have them do your machine work. If you don't want to build it yourself they might do it for you. That would be opimal, that way the machine shop can't blame the mechanic/assembler and vise-versa.
My Dad owns a machine shop and has been doing motors for close to 40 years so I don't know what the "retail" cost would be, as I've never had to pay it, but I'll bet you could build/have built a motor for around the same price as the reman is and have it built your way too. Make sure you factor in shipping if necessary on the reman as that won't be cheap.
Another thing is: I would worry about the 7.3L reman unless it's been sleeved. You could put it in and 5K later find out your cylinder walls had electrolysis/pitting/cavitation and you have to start over again. I don't know what their warranty is but I'd be hesitant.
I don't know how you could rebuild a 7.3L well without sleeving it because if you bored it out you would have WAY too thin of cylinder walls.
I have a hard time going to the trouble of building/rebuilding a motor without starting with nice straight, round, cross-hatched cylinders, in fact I never have.
My Dad even insists on sleeving 6.9Ls if he's warrantying his work, might or might not be excessively paranoid I don't know.
I would find a GOOD machine shop, not necessarily a "race" shop. REALLY do your homework and get somebody good and reliable and have them do your machine work. If you don't want to build it yourself they might do it for you. That would be opimal, that way the machine shop can't blame the mechanic/assembler and vise-versa.
My Dad owns a machine shop and has been doing motors for close to 40 years so I don't know what the "retail" cost would be, as I've never had to pay it, but I'll bet you could build/have built a motor for around the same price as the reman is and have it built your way too. Make sure you factor in shipping if necessary on the reman as that won't be cheap.
Another thing is: I would worry about the 7.3L reman unless it's been sleeved. You could put it in and 5K later find out your cylinder walls had electrolysis/pitting/cavitation and you have to start over again. I don't know what their warranty is but I'd be hesitant.
I don't know how you could rebuild a 7.3L well without sleeving it because if you bored it out you would have WAY too thin of cylinder walls.
I have a hard time going to the trouble of building/rebuilding a motor without starting with nice straight, round, cross-hatched cylinders, in fact I never have.
My Dad even insists on sleeving 6.9Ls if he's warrantying his work, might or might not be excessively paranoid I don't know.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 698
Likes: 0
From: Guymon
How much power is BIG HP. What are you wanting to do with it. Do you want to have a competition type truck for pulling sleads and racing? OR are you just trying to get more power out of ol betsy for pulling trailers and keeping up with the newer trucks (left stock that is)?
I already kinda thought what I would do If I could use 20,000 of my finances. I would
Get the Cummins Conversion Kit
Get a good used Cummins from a wrecked truck
Get the modes you want for that engine
Rebuild that transmission with beefed up components
Redo the interier with fresh carpet, seats redone and any broken/worn/faded pices replaced
If needed, a new paint job
Polish the wheels if they are aluminum and cover them with a good set of tires
Now we have a BAD Truck That would look like it just rolled of the showroom floor.
If you want to stay away from the cummins then your options are limited for big hp. For the engine I would buy the banks trubo sidewinder kit just for that truck (or ats if perfered), replace the head bolts with headstuds and fresh head gaskits so I could run more boost pressure. Im not sure How important milling the pistons are so DAVE S will probably be able to tell you but if possible I would have them milled down a little to lower compression. I would also replace that stoke torque converter and still rebuild the tranny.
I already kinda thought what I would do If I could use 20,000 of my finances. I would
Get the Cummins Conversion Kit
Get a good used Cummins from a wrecked truck
Get the modes you want for that engine
Rebuild that transmission with beefed up components
Redo the interier with fresh carpet, seats redone and any broken/worn/faded pices replaced
If needed, a new paint job
Polish the wheels if they are aluminum and cover them with a good set of tires
Now we have a BAD Truck That would look like it just rolled of the showroom floor.
If you want to stay away from the cummins then your options are limited for big hp. For the engine I would buy the banks trubo sidewinder kit just for that truck (or ats if perfered), replace the head bolts with headstuds and fresh head gaskits so I could run more boost pressure. Im not sure How important milling the pistons are so DAVE S will probably be able to tell you but if possible I would have them milled down a little to lower compression. I would also replace that stoke torque converter and still rebuild the tranny.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
How much power is BIG HP. What are you wanting to do with it. Do you want to have a competition type truck for pulling sleads and racing? OR are you just trying to get more power out of ol betsy for pulling trailers and keeping up with the newer trucks (left stock that is)?
I already kinda thought what I would do If I could use 20,000 of my finances. I would
Get the Cummins Conversion Kit
Get a good used Cummins from a wrecked truck
Get the modes you want for that engine
Rebuild that transmission with beefed up components
Redo the interier with fresh carpet, seats redone and any broken/worn/faded pices replaced
If needed, a new paint job
Polish the wheels if they are aluminum and cover them with a good set of tires
Now we have a BAD Truck That would look like it just rolled of the showroom floor.
If you want to stay away from the cummins then your options are limited for big hp. For the engine I would buy the banks trubo sidewinder kit just for that truck (or ats if perfered), replace the head bolts with headstuds and fresh head gaskits so I could run more boost pressure. Im not sure How important milling the pistons are so DAVE S will probably be able to tell you but if possible I would have them milled down a little to lower compression. I would also replace that stoke torque converter and still rebuild the tranny.
I already kinda thought what I would do If I could use 20,000 of my finances. I would
Get the Cummins Conversion Kit
Get a good used Cummins from a wrecked truck
Get the modes you want for that engine
Rebuild that transmission with beefed up components
Redo the interier with fresh carpet, seats redone and any broken/worn/faded pices replaced
If needed, a new paint job
Polish the wheels if they are aluminum and cover them with a good set of tires
Now we have a BAD Truck That would look like it just rolled of the showroom floor.
If you want to stay away from the cummins then your options are limited for big hp. For the engine I would buy the banks trubo sidewinder kit just for that truck (or ats if perfered), replace the head bolts with headstuds and fresh head gaskits so I could run more boost pressure. Im not sure How important milling the pistons are so DAVE S will probably be able to tell you but if possible I would have them milled down a little to lower compression. I would also replace that stoke torque converter and still rebuild the tranny.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
How did he get 385 Hp out of an IDI!?
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 698
Likes: 0
From: Guymon
I think he is leaving out critical, need to know information!!! Please share with us!!
Just go over to your friends house, ask a few questions and go from there. How much boost and what internal modes has he done so far. Is he using anything else along with the diesel. Did he do anything to his injection pump and what injector code. How credible was the place that dyno'ed his truck and has he ran it more than once. I think Im only putting out 260 and stock i think is only 175 so another 225 hp would be neet. Also, What rpm is he at when he made the 385 hp on the dyno sheet and do you know his torque was? Sorry about all the questions but now im very interested.
Just go over to your friends house, ask a few questions and go from there. How much boost and what internal modes has he done so far. Is he using anything else along with the diesel. Did he do anything to his injection pump and what injector code. How credible was the place that dyno'ed his truck and has he ran it more than once. I think Im only putting out 260 and stock i think is only 175 so another 225 hp would be neet. Also, What rpm is he at when he made the 385 hp on the dyno sheet and do you know his torque was? Sorry about all the questions but now im very interested.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
I think he is leaving out critical, need to know information!!! Please share with us!!
Just go over to your friends house, ask a few questions and go from there. How much boost and what internal modes has he done so far. Is he using anything else along with the diesel. Did he do anything to his injection pump and what injector code. How credible was the place that dyno'ed his truck and has he ran it more than once. I think Im only putting out 260 and stock i think is only 175 so another 225 hp would be neet. Also, What rpm is he at when he made the 385 hp on the dyno sheet and do you know his torque was? Sorry about all the questions but now im very interested.
Just go over to your friends house, ask a few questions and go from there. How much boost and what internal modes has he done so far. Is he using anything else along with the diesel. Did he do anything to his injection pump and what injector code. How credible was the place that dyno'ed his truck and has he ran it more than once. I think Im only putting out 260 and stock i think is only 175 so another 225 hp would be neet. Also, What rpm is he at when he made the 385 hp on the dyno sheet and do you know his torque was? Sorry about all the questions but now im very interested.
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