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As I was driving yesterday I had the ABS light come on, after I turned the truck off and let it sit for 2hrs I had to move it and when I staterd it back up the ABS light was not on.
1.Can I test the diagnostics for the ABS myself?
2. Is there a common problem that someone else know about?
3. I did an all thread search and could only find info on ABS on the rear wheels only.
what were the driving conditions? headlights on, a/c on?
low voltage can cause the abs light to come on.
also a sensor may be failing when hot
there should be a code stored even though the light is off now
iI read in a prior post that it takes a different or more expensive code reader to read the 4W ABS codes. Is this a fact or will any code reader work. Thanks.
Edit: Headlights off, AC off, level road, 50mph, Temp was around 83 Deg F.
No, I checked the fluid, it is just below the max level. I went on to the Auto Zone website and they talk about using the programmer to do a brake bleed after you have done a conventional brake bleed. Did you ever here of this?
If you get a chance, please look at this and let me know what you think.
I hadn't heard of this HCU bleed with a scanner tool. However it seems to only be needed if you replace that unit or completely dry out the master cylinder. Just a guess, but the scanner probably just opens/closes the ABS valves to get any air out.
I did replace the front flexible brake hoses on the front. I did it myself and had a mechanic that works for our company help me bleed the brakes. I had no abs light problems after we did this, this was about 6 months ago. When I had my truck inspected at the dealership last month I had them replace the long brake line that goes from the front to the back. Maybe the mech did not bleed the brakes properly? When we did the front flex line replacement we let my truck sit with the front bleeders open to let the fluid drain down through the system and then when we bled the front brakes he told me NOT to push the brake pedal to the floor. He said this was because the piston would go into an area in the master cylinder that may have never been used and may have some debris that would cause the piston seal to fail. Have you ever heard of this?
AzBlueWolf I understand what you are talking about as far as getting a truck from the auction with no history or logs, but I bought my truck new in 99, so I have all of the vehicle history. How much does it cost to flush and replace all the brake fluid? Is it a very difficult task?
triton_2002, you are correct. I have not done the vacuum leak/air in the brake line test that the Autozone website talks about. I did have a pretty hard stop last week while I was towing the boat. The boat trailer is not required to have brakes.
Update, I had the code read at the today at the Ford dealer $85.00. The ABS light was not on at the time, but they said it had stored a code that said it was the rear sensor. I bought one at Advanced and I am ready to install it. I know that I saw a how to on this on the forums however I cannot find it in a search. If someone knows where it is located could you please put the link on a post. By looking at the part it looks very simple, I was just wondering if there are any things that could cause a problem such as lubricating the O ring. Thanks
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