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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 06:09 PM
  #1  
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From: Va. Beach, VA
Leaking Oil Up Top?

Oil is pooling up on top of my 2000 F250 7.3L and running down the back of the motor? Looking at the book it seems it's probably coming form the turbo high pressure oil lines somewhere. Where would be the most likely suspect and what can I do in the driveway to fix it? If it's one of those HP lines (I have not taken anything apart yet) is it a remove/replaceable piece/part?
 
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 06:12 PM
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In my research its either the o-rings from the turbo pedistal or from the lines that come out of the HPOP right under the fuel bowl...mines leaking outa the lines but you need a special tool to ge the lines off to replace the o-rings so mines still leaking till I bite the bullet and buy a $60 tool that Ill prolly only use once
 
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 06:22 PM
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I agree, its most likely a leaking HPOP line or the fitting in the HPOP itself. It could be a turbo O-ring too.. Take a flashlight and start searching. You might have to feel around until you find oil on your finger. If you do then start it up and see if its leaking and then address it. I have removed my HPOP lines with two flat blade screwdrivers using a push-pull action and they came right off.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 06:43 PM
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Hmmm, I have cleaned the motor with degreaser...drove it...then noticed a little pooling on top. Initially a big oil spot developed under the truck as it was losing oil quite fast. It's hard for me to spot the leak point with a flashlight laying on top with all the turbo piping etc. in the way. I just did search on here and it sounds like the pedestal seal? would be the "easiest" culprit to fix rather than the HPOP line/s.

Is there a site that shows a step by step remove/replace procedure (pics?) for the turbo to get a better view, and also a site for ordering the replacement kit w/seal?
 
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 07:07 PM
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Did you notice it right behind the fuel filter assy? You may need to tighten the large nut on the back of the HPOP. Mine comes a little loose every now and again, needs some tightening.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Reckless
Hmmm, I have cleaned the motor with degreaser...drove it...then noticed a little pooling on top. Initially a big oil spot developed under the truck as it was losing oil quite fast. It's hard for me to spot the leak point with a flashlight laying on top with all the turbo piping etc. in the way. I just did search on here and it sounds like the pedestal seal? would be the "easiest" culprit to fix rather than the HPOP line/s.

Is there a site that shows a step by step remove/replace procedure (pics?) for the turbo to get a better view, and also a site for ordering the replacement kit w/seal?
Don't be too reckless. The first thing you need to do is find out where the oil is leaking from. The HPO lines go from the HPOP to each head. You can buy a $2 wrench for an air grinder to use on the quick connect fittings if it is an O-ring leak in the line. If the fitting is leaking where it goes into the head, you can sometimes fix this just by tightening it up with an old fashioned wrench. If the plug on the HPOP is leaking, you'll need to invest in some brake cleaner and loc-tite. The pedestal takes 4 o-rings if that's the source, but make sure it's not the EBP rod leaking on the pedestal.

No reason to waste time and install the wrong "fix" only to find you still have an oil leak.

As for your instructions try this 2000 Workshop Manual.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 08:02 PM
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From: Northern Colorado
Originally Posted by That_Guy
In my research its either the o-rings from the turbo pedistal or from the lines that come out of the HPOP right under the fuel bowl...mines leaking outa the lines but you need a special tool to ge the lines off to replace the o-rings so mines still leaking till I bite the bullet and buy a $60 tool that Ill prolly only use once
Chris is correct, no need buying special tools for this job. Here are some pics of the line removal tool made from a wrench that I had laying around from something! Be sure you taper the ends of the wrench opening so it will slip between the locking sleeve and the metal stop on the HPOP line.

 
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 08:49 PM
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From: Brinklow Md
Originally Posted by guzzle92
Chris is correct, no need buying special tools for this job. Here are some pics of the line removal tool made from a wrench that I had laying around from something! Be sure you taper the ends of the wrench opening so it will slip between the locking sleeve and the metal stop on the HPOP line.


damn I need one of those ASAP lol I dont have access to a grinder anymorer though whish I would have know a week earlier lol
 
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 08:51 PM
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Use a file Chris. It may take a bit longer but it will get the job done.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by guzzle92
Chris is correct, no need buying special tools for this job. Here are some pics of the line removal tool made from a wrench that I had laying around from something! Be sure you taper the ends of the wrench opening so it will slip between the locking sleeve and the metal stop on the HPOP line.


Hmmm, now that I have a pic of what it supposed to look like I bet I can fab up a few of those......
 
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 09:25 PM
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by Texas Outlaw
Hmmm, now that I have a pic of what it supposed to look like I bet I can fab up a few of those......
You know, the best thing about guzzle's explanations is he always has pictures included. Don't forget to leave him some reps.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 10:31 PM
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From: Brinklow Md
Originally Posted by megawatt00
Use a file Chris. It may take a bit longer but it will get the job done.
Yea I dont have one of those either, might have to go out and buy a bench grinder for the house in FL
 
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by That_Guy
Yea I dont have one of those either, might have to go out and buy a bench grinder for the house in FL
So how many donuts is a grinding job on one of these tools worth? Of course you'll probably get more help if you offer beer and fried foods in trade, but I'm sure one of us will be willing to help you out Chris.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2008 | 12:36 AM
  #14  
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From: Brinklow Md
Originally Posted by Texas Outlaw
Hmmm, now that I have a pic of what it supposed to look like I bet I can fab up a few of those......
Does this mean your going to start making some for people that need them

Originally Posted by F350-6
So how many donuts is a grinding job on one of these tools worth? Of course you'll probably get more help if you offer beer and fried foods in trade, but I'm sure one of us will be willing to help you out Chris.
Well I can offer any of those 3 things to anyone that wants them, but everyones kinda far away so the beer would be warm and the food would be cold lol

Of course anyone on here is welcome to stop by for some beer and donuts anytime
 
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Old Jul 13, 2008 | 08:55 AM
  #15  
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No I don't plan on being "reckless" (good one...) but I do need to start moving some of that stuff out of my line of view.

With the amount that is coming out, it has splashed both the front and back area of the valley up top. With all the stuff in the way and my deteriorating nearsight, I have not been able to yet determine the general area of the leak. My next move before I start wrenching things apart will be to start it up and climb on top to see if i can a stream or a drip fron the front near the HPOP or n the back near the pedestal/turbo. I just didn't know what the usual suspects were or how this thing was put together.

That wrench looks like one of those that come with a circular saw or some other type handheld power tool. Good idea.....So the HPOP lines are basically QD lines is that correct? They just pop off if you can get to them?

Is the plug referred to as coming loose once in a while the "end plug" with an o-ring?

It's 88 today and I'd rather be out on the boat than messing with this...
 
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