So, I have this new master cyl, firewall mounted.

every set of instructions say to bench bleed them first. got that..
how do you get the leaky master back in the car without dripping corrosive brake fluid on your paint finish?

Sam

 

They really don't drip out of the outlet ports, but of course you'd want a rag under it while you set it in place. Nothing usually comes out unless you put pressure on the piston. Most kits come with little plastic plugs that screw into the ports anyway.

 

I did what Ross stated when i installed mine. You should be fine.

 

Sam, when I change a firewall mounted master cylinder, I install it dry and leave the lines disconnected. Service the reservoirs and let it sit with a pan under it. Go have a cool one and let the fluid drip out of the fittings into the pan for about an hour. (make sure the reservoirs don't empty) Hook up the lines and you are good to go. If it is a new system you will have to bleed the lines at the brakes, but if you are just installing a new master cylinder, no bleeding is required. Works great for me.

Gil

 

that sounds like a nice idea!..

sam

 

As long as the MC is level the drip trick works great. I do them that way all the time but I do a just in case blead at the MC, I get a helper and leave the lines slightly loose (1/2 turn or less) and have the helper push the pedal down SLOW one time and hold it, tighten the fittings and do it again till there is no more air. I keep a rag handy as well as a hose/squirt bottle of water to rinse any dripped fluid off. If you change to DOT 5 it won't take paint off but you have to flush all of the old fluid out of the system before you put the D5 in.

 

All give good advice. I use copious amounts of tin-foil to shield stuff also just as insurance. I do this for welding slag as well.

Haw ! I should say I "used" since in recent years I haven't had a vehicle that wouldn't benefit from some brake fluid cleaning off my nasty metal........