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'91....Slop in Steering

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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 04:41 PM
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'91....Slop in Steering

I've had the Bronco for nine years and have had three different mechanics check out the slop. They all said the tie rods, ball joints, etc. looked good. Have adjusted the steering gear box, with no luck. Have 80,000 miles on Bronco. Anything I can do to eliminate the problem? Thanks....
 
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 06:05 PM
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take it to an alignment shop. they are better equiped to troubleshoot whats going on. stop adjusting the screw on the gear box, doing so will continue to ruin the unit or possibly cause it to bind up while driving making it unable to turn at all.

the steering rag joint might possibly be shot, changing out the steering box for a new unit might be better at this stage as it sounds more like the issue at this time.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 06:57 PM
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Steering slack

I agree with Kem. On mine there is a plastic cover over the rag joint. An ear of the plastic is clipped around a hose on the steering gear box. Slide the cover up the shaft. Turn the key to unlock the wheel. Back to the fender rotate the steering shaft and watch for pittman arm movement to see if slack is in rag joint or gear box. If it is the box I am extremely pleased with my Red Head Steer Gear box. It is a little more but worth it. If you wrastle with one you only want to do it once. 80K is not many miles so be sure it is the gear box.

Test with the wheels straight ahead. More wear is there.
 

Last edited by b4hntn; Jul 11, 2008 at 06:59 PM. Reason: Forgot sometheing
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Old Jul 11, 2008 | 10:39 PM
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Must be the gear box. No slack at all in the rag joint. Get about a 45 degree roatation when moving the pittman arm. How much rotation should I be getting? Seems like a lot the way it is now. Would a mechanic or alignment shop be the best to determine for sure if it is the gear box? If it is the gear box, how difficult is it to swap out and what is the cost of the Red Head Steer Gear Box? Thanks guys, for the help......
 
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 03:36 AM
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Originally Posted by b4hntn
I agree with Kem. On mine there is a plastic cover over the rag joint. An ear of the plastic is clipped around a hose on the steering gear box. Slide the cover up the shaft. Turn the key to unlock the wheel. Back to the fender rotate the steering shaft and watch for pittman arm movement to see if slack is in rag joint or gear box. If it is the box I am extremely pleased with my Red Head Steer Gear box. It is a little more but worth it. If you wrastle with one you only want to do it once. 80K is not many miles so be sure it is the gear box.

Test with the wheels straight ahead. More wear is there.
I have heard some good things about the Red Head. How much play do you have in the steering wheel rim now when you turn the wheel with the column unlocked and standing outside the vehicle-- before the front wheels start moving to the side??
 
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 05:06 AM
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Steering gear box

I had 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 inch play in the steering wheel on the highway. Now it is about an inch or less. I no long chase it and wonder when it will wander. Do not touch the preload adjustment on the new one. It is a little tight to begin with but soon becomes fine.
Red-Head Steering Gears, Seattle WA - Red-Head Steering Gears Home
 
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by b4hntn
I had 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 inch play in the steering wheel on the highway. Now it is about an inch or less. I no long chase it and wonder when it will wander. Do not touch the preload adjustment on the new one. It is a little tight to begin with but soon becomes fine.
Red-Head Steering Gears, Seattle WA - Red-Head Steering Gears Home
One inch or less of play is outstanding in these trucks!! I would think that the red housing sure looks pretty under the hood also!! Was it an easy install??
 
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 10:39 AM
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Yes, I think mine is better than new.

Not easy but can be done at home.
Removing the box is easy. Removing the pitman arm from the steering gear box took heat, pitman arm puller, puller fork, large hammer and getting really mad at it for two days until lots more heat and hammer were applied.

Replacing took a board and a ratchet strap to support it as it is not light. Hint: Removing the clamps holding the cooling tube to the crossmember makes it easier to start the hose fitting straight.

Be sure the three bolts securing it to the frame are tight or it will pop like a bad radius arm bushing. I learned.

Red-Head includes a UPS return label for the core. Just leave it at any package place. Great folks to deal with. Sure beats playing gear box roulette and not knowing if the next one will be any better.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2008 | 02:29 PM
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Changing the Pittman arm is not always that bad, but it is the hardest part of the job. One other thing I would like to mention is if you have a lift, the lift brackets could be loose. It took a long time for me to figure this out. If so, they will exaggerate the play. Also, if your rear leaf springs are loose.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2008 | 02:10 PM
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Thanks for all of the input. I have about 3 1/2" to 4" movement in steering wheel while standing outside watching the wheel. I do not have a lift kit. The rear springs are tight.
I'm not a mechanic...mainly do "hang on" type stuff....alternators, water pump, brakes, rotors, bearings, shocks, etc....Is this out of my league?
 
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Old Jul 16, 2008 | 06:12 PM
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You can probably do it. That said, the only front end work I did myself was the gear box. Lot's more has been done by a front end shop. I would suggest an inspection by them and let them do everything needed except the gear box. Do the geat box first if it has slack so they can center the wheel if needed when they do an alignment if they replace something. If you can't remove the pittman arm get another at the salvage yard or take it somewhere for removal.
 
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