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well it seems i have fixed my oil dipstick leak with the IH dipstick repair kit, however, my truck is still leaking. i pulled the inspection cover from b/t the tranny and oil pan and it looks like oil is coming from the rear main seal. i guess i am just going to pull the motor out and replace the rear main as well as the pan gasket.
with all that being said, would you guys recommend doing any maintenance work on it while i have it pulled like replace any of the seals or components? i have been wanting to do some cleaning on the frame and around the tranny for a while so cleaning everything is at the top of my list. it's just SO much easier to work on something when it is out of the truck and on a stand rather than laying on your back and trying to reach up through exchaust and wires and stuff
BTW... the motor has 250,000 miles on her ticker.
thanks in advance!
EDIT... one other quickie question (i think) i have an engine stand but its only rated for 1250lbs. I have read MANY different 'opinions' on the weight of the PSD ranging from 900lbs to 2300lbs. you guys who have pulled the motor... what did you do? make your own stand? sit it on a tire? any suggestions? wondering if i could beef up the stand i have!?
Your engine stand will be fine. I think the long block wieghs around 900 and the drop in motor would be a little heavier but the 1250 is just fine.
You might want to have a new pan on hand. That sealant is tough stuff and the chances of bending the oil pan to remove it are very good. Also just a note that if you really don't want to pull the motor you can do the rear main with the trans out. But if you want to do the pan as well then your on the right track.
As far as other stuff while your there. I would pull a rear main cap and check the bearings with Plasti-gauge just to see what wear there may be. Chances are there won't be an issue but it would be nice to know. Also make sure all the piston cooling jets are in place and the bolts are tight. They have been known to fall out.
If you have ever entertained head studs now would be the time as well. Also if you have an auto a good TC would be an easy install. Ah forget it. Pull the engine and drop about $20K worth of hardware into it! then you will be good to go. LOL
Oh yeah check the up-pipe closely as well. maybe even treat them to new donut gaskets anyway just cause it will be so easy. And of course clean the engine really well too!
thanks Tim, thats exactly what i was wanting to hear. i will pull all the accessories off while still on the hoist so i am hoping the weight wont be too much! i havent really thought about headstuds esp since i'm not running any big horsepower, but if they arent too bad cost wise i may go ahead since its out. thanks for reminding me about the exhaust donuts... i will be sure to get new ones! i would like to buy a turbo pedastal that has the EBPV valve eliminated so i should have everything apart anyways.
funny thing is i am doing this exact process to my 72 bronco. my rear main has been leaking so while i have the front axle out i figured i'd change the rear main. to make a long story short i have the 302 block heads, and crank at the machine shop getting cleaned and machined. i figure while it's out i might as well. funny how this process works!
You may also want to check the turbo end play. It's a lot easier to get off when the engines out. Maybe drill and tap the exhaust manifold for a temp probe.
So did you have to raise the cab off the frame to get the engine out? I've done it without, but it was tight.
Just pokin fun.
He's displayin that big ole 2007 dodge in the sig, not the ford. =)
Diesel blood at heart anyways.
So, just because i have a temporary setback due to gas instead of diesel doesn't mean a thing.
I mean, i just drive the grocery getter for the time bien.
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