I drive a 93 Ranger 3.0 4x4 with just over 150,000 miles. Always has been a good running truck, but the last week it has developed a kind of hesitation/hic-up. Mostly when taking off and just after I shift gears (it is a 5 speed manual). It seems to be worse when cold and gets better when it reaches normal temp, but still will hesitate briefly occasionally. The check engine light has not come on.

It has been about 30 thousand miles since I changed the fuel filter and plugs, wires, cap and rotor so I will probably do that this week.

Any other things I should check out if that doesn't do the trick? I confess to not being much of a mechanic, but I can do minor things if pointed in the right direction.

Thanks to anyone who takes the time to respond to my problem. Love this old Ranger and hope to get another 10 years out of her if I can afford to put gas it it.

 

may be clogged cat....

 

A clogged cat is not likely. Typical clogged cat is low power, which becomes increasingly restricted as vehicles speed or load increases. The engine will run better at low RPM and idle but would run rough. This does not sound like your symptoms at all. However, your symptoms do closely match those of a dirty MAF sensor element. A brief search will give you all the information you need to know about the MAf sensor.

 

I sure hope it's not the cat (I'm assuming you guys mean the catylatic convertor?). That could get expensive.

I have been reading some threads about the MAF sensors. It is definately something I have never messed with, so maybe. I will try to clean it. One thread said you need a special torx bit; is that true?

The truck doesn't seem like it is losing power except the litle hitches when first excelerating, than smooths right out. Than I may get a small blip again after I shift after letting up and than giving it gas again. Almost feels like not getting gas steady. Seems to idle good, for the miles, on it and it doesn't stall.

I also changed the air filter about 3 weeks ago, but the old one didn't look dirty (Fram).

Thanks again Pablo and Bear.

 

Foxhopper,

I don't know if your MAF uses the security torx or not, but mine did on a 98. It is a t-15 torx screwhead with a little post sticking up in the middle of the star-hole which prevents a normal torx bit from entering the hole. I had no experience with this before until I found this type screwhead on my MAF.

If you have security torx, Two solutions:

1) in my case the MAF is held in an inline cast aluminum body that can be unbolted from the air cleaner box and from the intake rubber hose. The MAF sensor is then visible and can be cleaned per instructions you can find in a search on this site.

2) If you have a Dremel with a small metal-cutter wheel, carefully cut a slot thru the center of your security-torx screw heads and remove them with a regular slotted screwdriver. The MAF sensor itself can then be lifted out, and be very careful since the little wires are very exposed to any mechanical trauma.....I cleaned with B12 ChemTool and lightly used a cottonswab to wipe with. Then you can either re-install with the same screws or replace them with normal-head screws of your choice. I read this Dremel idea somewhere on this site, but I have done that trick before on other hobby projects too.

I guess a third solution would be to go to your auto parts and buy a security-torx driver.....wonder why I didn't think of that!


YHS,
rogerw

 

Actually, you can buy a security torx tool at most parts stores, and all major hardware stores.

I like the dremel solution, though if you don't already have a dremel, it costs more than a set of security torx bits.

 

I did a post on something like this a while back...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ss-solved.html

 

Thanks Bazzman, I had already happened to read your thread. Hopefully a cleaning of the MAF will do the trick; cuz I just about fell over when I seen the price of one! Looked like about $160 bucks (60 was core charge).

Long as I got a thread going; what is the popular choice of spark plugs for these 3.0's. Does the board have a preference?

Been raining for 3 days, so I haven't messed with anything, but tomorrow I hope to get on it. Gonna cross my fingers I can figure it out.

Thanks again everyone for letting me pick your brains!

 

If the MAF is the source of your problems, I doubt that cleaning it will work. Mine seemed to be an internal problem, not the sensing wires.
As for the price shock... I went and bit the bullet, no choice, but now my CEL is no longer on and my truck no longer stalls. That wierd miss is also gone.

 

What gets me is that I haven't had a cel light come on....I take that back, about 2 months ago it did come on for about 2 miles and than went back out. This was about a month before I noticed the problem I am having now.

Now ABS light, I do get that on occasion. I just restart the truck and it disappears for another couple monyhs.

 

I had a few minutes before dark to look things over. I pulled the rear spark plugs on both sides and they both looked great and had correct gap. Pulled the PCP valve and it was clean and rattled when shook. I also took a quick look and found the MAF. It does take the safety star tool, so I didn't mess with trying to pull it off.

I did unplug the maf harness while it was running and it seemed to idle down a little. Still idled smooth. The engine was warmed up at the time. It was dark by then, but I decided to take a quick drive around the block to see if anything seemed beter or worse. It seemed to run the same unplugged. CEL light did come on unplugged though. I disconnected my negative cable and called it quits because the skeeters were chewing me up!

Does it still sound like it could be a bad Maf sensor? Tomorrow I plan on replacing the fuel filter and inspecting the cap and rotor.

Problem did seem to get worse today btw. Earlier, on the way home before doing anything I got on it a little more than usual, and it seemed to "skip" a beat when the rpm's got around 6 grand and before I would upshift. My normal driving is usually accelerate slow and save gas, so I don't get on it often.

Sorry if I sound like a *******. Most of this stuff is probably elementary to most of you. I just never learned much about wrenching.

 

Now I really feel stupid...I ment to type 3000 rpm's. Not 6

Anyway, on the way to the parts store tonight, my friggin power steering pump went out. Lines are rusty, as well. Front brake lines are about rotten too, so I'm going to try to replace those. Was so flustered, I just about forgot about the original problem....

 

For the plugs and wires, most have found the original Autolite plugs and wires and other ignition components are the best. When you go the local parts store, ask for Autolite. If they don't have Autolite or Motorcraft, go to another store. They will try to sell you on what they do have, and its not based upon whats right for you vehicle, but rather on what the guy at the counter gets the best commission off of.

There are a few really good site sponsors that sell the genuine Ford parts. I've used RockAuto a lot personally.

 

Bear River, yeah after asking the question I spent a little time searching old posts and noticed that the overall consensus was for Motorcraft and Autolight. After pulling a couple the other night, I see that I had put Autolight in them the last time. The plugs I pulled still looked really good, but I still will probably change them. As far as the wires and Cap, I'm not sure what they are, but I bought what they said were the best they had last time.

Funny thing, before my PS pump blew on the way to the parts store, the truck was running really well, and I couldn't get it to Hic-up. Mind you, I only made it about 6 miles before the pump went and I really took it easy back home. Could unhooking the negative cable the night before have reset the computer and fixed the problem. Or maybe unplugging the MAF and plugging it back? I guess I really won't know until I can get it back on the road, for sure. As always, thanks for the asvice.