Help with no start issue please
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Help with no start issue please
Have a buddy with a 99 that won't start. when I turn the key on all the dash lighst come on but I don't even get a click. If I jump the celinoid at the starter it will fire right up. I replaced the cellinoid on the passenger side fender and still get nothing with the key. I also get nothing if I jump this cellinoid. I tried to wiggle the gear selector to see if the nuetral safety switch has a bad spot but no go. Any fuses I should check be looking at ? what do we check next?
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 13,144
Likes: 11
From: Rochdale MA
I read in one of the threads about a wire in the steering column coming loose or breaking. Pull the plastic housing off the column and look for chaffed wire(s).
Check to see if the fuse that feeds the ignition\throttle control is ok.
Check to see if the fuse that feeds the ignition\throttle control is ok.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 789
Likes: 16
From: West Coast/L.A. Area
At least it's not a major problem. Obvious: Key supposed to send 12V to the solenoid and solenoid closes and sends 12v to starter (or is it 24V with the diesels?). Get a volt/ohmeter and track it down.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 13,144
Likes: 11
From: Rochdale MA
We have only 12V Gary. Our batteries are wired in parallel not series. In a DC series circuit the voltage is additive. In Parallel the voltage remains the same but the amperage (CCA) is greater.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 789
Likes: 16
From: West Coast/L.A. Area
Thanks Jim. I did hear that once but before (I got one) I always thought that the diesels ran 24v to start because of the high compression (17.5/1). I used to run an 8V battery on my '50 Olds with 11.5/1 compression cause it wouldn't turn over on the standard 6V. I guess the 2 batteries are there to give a huge shot of amps to the starter motor.
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Of the next Riffraff East
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,679
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From: Concord NC
Just for kicks, try starting in neutral, the change the tilt on steering column. There are also a couple of fuses under the hood (20 and 21) the are labled for ignition. There is also one under the dash you might check, 27. You need to check and see if you have power to the small wires on the soleniod when you turn the key to start, if so, you have a bad soleniod.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 13,144
Likes: 11
From: Rochdale MA
Thanks Jim. I did hear that once but before (I got one) I always thought that the diesels ran 24v to start because of the high compression (17.5/1). I used to run an 8V battery on my '50 Olds with 11.5/1 compression cause it wouldn't turn over on the standard 6V. I guess the 2 batteries are there to give a huge shot of amps to the starter motor.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 665
Likes: 0
From: Kingsland, GA
Theres two solenoids at work here... One is on the passenger side fenderwell, and you got that one, but the starter motor has a second one that makes the starter engage. If you replaced the fenderwell one, and it still doesn't work, check the small wire on the starter. With the key held in "Start", there should be 12v at this wire AND the big, main wire for the starter. If there is, then the wiring is good and the starter is bad. Opposite if it's not.
You can also pull the starter (which is actually pretty easy) and take it to a shop to have it bench tested as well...
You can also pull the starter (which is actually pretty easy) and take it to a shop to have it bench tested as well...