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So, after a few short stop errands around the city, the starter begins to drag. Last errand, no more start. Turn key---click. Turn key---click.
My thoughts:
Dragging starter on hot day leading to broken down = starter hooped.
"click sound" seems to indicate that it's not a relay, etc.
Oh, and to top it off, the extra load of that damn starter finally fried my failing battery.
One of those days.
Any opinions before I just go out and buy a new starter and battery?
Definitely starter? Or are there other possibilities?
Any tips/tricks on starter change or is it pretty much straight forward on an Aerostar. (there must be one part that is straight forward on an Aerostar??)
Relay may click but w/o closing circuit. Try to check it with avometer. Turn it on voltage mearsure and measure voltage on 8mm lugs of relay. When Relay (key) is off you should see 12-14V, when it is on 0 v should be. If you see no change try to short it with wrench ore screwdriver. Be sure lever is on park.
"Quote" Any tips/tricks on starter change or is it pretty much straight forward on an Aerostar. (there must be one part that is straight forward on an Aerostar??)
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Whether 3.0 or 4.0 as your getting under the van I'd check to make sure you have no loose connection on the wiring as it bolts up to your starter (solenoid).
On my 4.0 extended the bolts kept backing out until I noticed it. The starter came out of the cavity just enough to bind it into making me think it went bad. I installed lock washers. Problem solved.
Chances are you have a bad starter. After you've pulled it go ahead and have them check the polarity on it in for example Auto Zone (its free).
Lastly, your battery is probably still good. I'd jump it after you've figured out the starter issue and then just let it run for awhile. A battery will normally recover unless you've knocked it down 3 or 4 times. Get a trickle charger for issues such as this too.--Good Luck Boz
can also be weak output failing alternator.
alternator fails to charge battery fully.
low voltage battery causes slow cranking and starting
adds extra load and overheats starter
get the starter tested when you bet it pulled
alternator and battery tested after it starts.
most auto parts stores are set up to do the tests. call ahead
Remove starter, disassemble starter, grease shaft (it will be dry causing the drag), reassemble and install. If it still doesn't work, remove and have it tested at your local shop.
Tired and cranky last night after a bad day. I forgot to include some info.
195 3.0L
Attempted to boost vehicle. No go. No change.
Last night I shorted the relay/solenoid to see if the starter would spin. No change. Just one single click. Then after a few attempts, nothing at all from starter.
Battery has been knocked down 4-5 times, so is pretty much garbage at this point.
Alternator output appeared fine prior to problem, as indicated by gauge.
I'm thinking definitely replace starter and battery at this point.
one comment.... bushings/shoes/brushes... time to take starter apart ore replace. I did repare my starter for 3 times and finnally replaced with new. Rebuilt starters are available on market too. Cheappest are Cardone... not the best, but work...
I would reach under and rap the starter with a Hammer a couple of times. Then try starting it. Sometimes the starter will hit a flat spot or lock itself. A rap with a hammer will get it to start. You might have to try it more than once.
There is also a connection Ford quit using because it would get corroded. When you put on an aftermaket you cut out the connection. At least that was the situation with my 92 4.0... BTW I have had bad luck with Duralast lately. On my Caddy I had to replace alternator twice and starter 3 times before I got good parts...
hey bax, how long did it take you to change the starter out on your car? mine finally bit the dust tonight and will only have about 3 hours to change it
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