I think I just found my new engine. Its a 514, using a scj 4 bolt main block and heads, the heads are ported and polished with oversize valves, 12.5 to 1 trw pop ups, he forgot the cam measurements but the lift is somewhere in the low .650 range, orginally built for a pulling truck, guy got hard up for monEy, drag racer bought it, never used it, and now hes selling it after 4 years of sitting on a stand. I think Im gonna take out the loan and build my truck like Ive always wanted it while Im still young.

 

You will have to run some pretty high octane fuel in that thing and it wont be very streetable at all.

damn good start for a mud truck though. Probably makes about 700-750hp

 

with just .650 lift it's probably a solid flat tappet cam, would be suprised if it's over 650hp actually, probably more in the 600hp range. As to over sized valves and porting and polishing in the SCJ heads... I would want to see flow bench results to see if it was done right.
how is it turned into a 514? offset ground factory crank, or aftermarket cast crank? I would be suprised if it was a forged unit with the age of it (back then forged cranks were over $2000 custom units) and what rods are on it? If alum and it has been used in a pulling truck I would replace them, if Hbeam or billet rods you should be good to go. If it's a cast crank try to keep the hp below 750 and you should be fine, if you run 800+ you need to take it out and have it inspected every year, but the good news is the forged cranks are getting pretty cheap anymore.
The TRW slugs are pretty heavy but work ok, just keep the rpms below 7k with them woudl be my recommendation.
As long as the price is good you should have a decent find there, the SCJ heads are great for classes that require factory iron heads, and a 4 bolt block is basically overkill for any power level you most likely will reach with those heads every and definitely overkill for any power level you will get with a flat tappet cam so you have a solid base to work with there.

 

Good find. How much was he asking for it? Hell of motor for your truck...

 

DO IT thatd be bad **** in your truck, but x2 on what kris said about it being not very streetable, sure would make a nasty motor for a mud truck though

 

This sounds like the motor the guy is selling over on the 460 site. Read some of the other comments about it. For what he's asking, and not knowing too much about the motor, it may be risky. Not saying that it's a bad deal, but I have seen better deals where the seller know exactly what they are selling so you'll know what you will get! Just a little food for thought.....

 

Kjett your right I had forgotten about that one over on chilly's site. all I can tell you is run. I knew it was familar but not why. the guy doesn't even know what heads are on it. Over on the other site he claims it has PI heads, yet here you claim he says CJ heads and from what i understand he doesn't even know IF it's actually a 514 or not and hasn't even taken the pan off to verify it has 4 bolt mains (and took him over a month to come up with pictures for it) and the claim is "marine" rods which is meaning he doesn't even have a clue what that means (IF they put something in other then SCJ rods it was a step down and "marine" rods is meaningless drivel used to sell parts to unsuspecting buyers) and IF it was actually a 514 the only way he could have factory ford rods in it would be to use a motorsport crank, but the FRPP engines were NOT 4 bolt mains. Basically wwwwaaayyyyy to many unknowns and story changes for me to even think of considering that engine. and for $6000 add a couple thousand and buy a FRPP crate motor with KNOWN new parts (new ones even are using motorsport blocks with revised oiling systems) and have alum SCJ heads with good forged pistons and with a cam switch to a comp XR292R cam can see 700hp.

 

check out CarsByCarl.com for crate engines. Hes a damn good guy and pretty reasonable.

 

Why not just build your own?

I'm doing a 545 right now. Lots of good stuff out there and it can be done without spending tons of money.

 

Where did you get your stroker kit from?

 

thats carsbycarl seems to have some good products, seems to be well priced too, id check out that place, they have the stroker kits too

 

Never mind then about the 514. I had no idea, this guy seemed to have all the answers, never mentioned not knowing anything bout the engine. So since you guys tend to trust him, im gonna go with a crate from carsbycarl. Im gonna get the street brusier, 545 ci,525 hp., 680 lb. ft at 3000 RPM.
So lets hear it guys, Im doing this right, Im taking out a loan for $10,000, the engine is gonna end up being prob $6500 for headers and a carb and dist. What should i do about my trans, its a c6, and i want a full manual reverse valve body and a good rebuild. Axles? really just wanna chromo shaft the 44, gear them for 4.56 drop a full spool in the back,and be done with it.Tires are gonna be the boggers mentioned in another post.Anything else i should do? Im building my baby while Im still young and have a steady income. This is my dream truck and i want it done right. So tell me what i should do.

 

You could save ALOT by building the motor yourself if your able. I cant imagine what that motor would be like....goosebumps....haha. Also cant see the d44 lasting to long with that kind of power. Your defintily going in the right direction, I just think an axle upgrade is a must.

 

Jesse it depends on what your doing with it whether a D44 will last behind an engine like that or not, in a straight line mud drag truck it will no problem.

As to buying an engine from Carl he is a good guy and by all accounts as honest as you will find anywhere plus in talking to him he knows his stuff (I may not always agree with him but hey no two people will agree 100% of the time)

 

Id do it my self but Im deployed and want it done before i come home in Christmas. I can't build while Im in Japan.