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Old Jun 28, 2008 | 09:08 PM
  #1  
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From: Blue Hill Township
Don't you dare!

Ugh, I am rewiring my open car trailer today. When the trailer was wired at the factory they used a TON of the 3M scotch lock connectors on the thing. What makes anybody think that scotch locks or any non weatherproof crimp connectors are good for wiring a trailer? There were wires pinched between the deck and the supports and it looked like CRAP! I pulled all new wire to everything and am soldering all connections. I have to get new marker lights on the side as they are broken but I am having trouble finding stud mount lights. I also see that one of my tail lights has a broken lens. Its always something.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2008 | 12:37 AM
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Check the truck stops or walmart.
They have pretty good selections of lights and accesories.

I need to do this too.
My trailer currently ain't got no lights at all!
 
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Old Jul 4, 2008 | 10:33 PM
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Electrical hell. I'm trying to make a harness for my tractor, and I'm in your shoes today. I need 3 12V lamps to replace the old 6V ones, plus flashers, and a red tail light. The old harness was homemades in the 80s and is made of 3 colors of wire.... and is spliced randomly in the middle of conduits made from electrical tape. I spent and hour today trying to decipher the switches on the dash and trace the random jumpers that are everywhere. This shouldn't be so hard, it's a freakin 1949 engine here, but between the 6V to 12V conversion, all the wiring for the lights missing since the conversion, and adding 3 news systems (flashers, 12V plug, and brake light) it's just an insane mess.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2008 | 10:43 PM
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From: Drummonds, TN USA
Start over from scratch, plan your own wires, and consider using LED lights - which are expensive, but last forever. The lack of need to replace them makes it worth doing.

They'll be working when the frame rusts out...

LED lights can be had at truck stops, or go directly to BARJAN.

http://www.barjan.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=93

It's a hella lot cheaper than through a road rip-off place. Prices are double at truck stops. The only things I buy at truck stops are C/B stuff, coffee, and die cast models.

Shucks, a sausage sandwich at a truck stop costs almost as much as the WHOLE PIG!



*NOTE to TRUCKERS: If you see a WALMART along the way - you can get a HUMONGOUS sub sandwich in the deli for five bucks! It will last all the way through five states.....
 
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Old Jul 4, 2008 | 11:14 PM
  #5  
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Everything is almost done. The wire is run and dressed. I just have to finish soldering up the brake wires and then connect everything from the 7 pin to the new wire. Time is the problem though.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2008 | 11:19 PM
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From: Drummonds, TN USA
Funny - every time I see your username I think of a kit that I got to raise schrimp in an aquarium when I was about twelve years old.

They were called: "SEA MONKEYS" as I remember...


(No offence intended, it was just a random thought)
 
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Old Jul 5, 2008 | 12:24 AM
  #7  
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Yeah, I need to add in some more lights on mine. I currently only have the rear stop/turns, but I'm supposed to have two markers on each side and a three-light bar in the center rear. As it is, I operate under trip permits anyways, so no too worried about compliance, but I really want to get it inspected and registered one day-
 
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Old Jul 5, 2008 | 01:32 AM
  #8  
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From: VA
I got my own rewire job coming up...picked up an '96 Pace American "Shadow" enclosed car hauler a while back for $4900. It's in reasonably good shape, but needs to have all the lights redone. I'm thinking that just pulling the inside paneling down and running new wire is the easiest way. Will be adding all led lights to it too. I figure that between the wire and the lights I can get it done for about $300.00.
It's one of those projects that I've been putting off and now I have a little time I'm going to get it done.Besides, I need it to use for my own mobile shop and having permanent tags on it draws the attention of the po-pos....
 
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Old Jul 5, 2008 | 12:53 PM
  #9  
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From: Drummonds, TN USA
If it's going to be a mobile shop, you might consider running lightweight conduit outside the interior panels. One set for 12 volt, and one for 115 volt. I'd run it along the tops of the sidewalls front to back on each side.

Just a thought.
 
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