I cant get my window down!
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,491
Likes: 16
From: Kuna ID
I cant get my window down!
Well I think the electric motor for my driver side window died. I used a test light and I have power through the switch all the way up to the motor, but no motion from the motor. I even swapped the switch and no dice. Is there anyway I can get my window down until the motor I ordered arrives? I would like to haul off some yard debris tomorrow, but I don't have A/C and it's supposed to get near 100*. 
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Take the motor assembly out.
Your window would be down until you put the new motor in or unless you can hold the window up. A trick I've done in the past is to fold up some paper and form a wedge to go between the glass and the weather stripping. Do this on both sides and this should hold it up.
Your window would be down until you put the new motor in or unless you can hold the window up. A trick I've done in the past is to fold up some paper and form a wedge to go between the glass and the weather stripping. Do this on both sides and this should hold it up.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,635
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From: Niceville, FL.
If your motor hasn't been removed previously be aware that you must drill a couple of 1/2" holes in the inner door sheet metal to gain access to the motor mounting screws. There are dimples in the door metal to start the drill. Many times, the problem is in the slip clutch drive mechanism rather than the motor itself. If the motor runs and the window doesn't move it's most likely the drive clutch. If the motor doesn't run it may be the circuit breaker kicking out.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,491
Likes: 16
From: Kuna ID
I swapped circuit breakers as well, but got nothing. The motor makes no noise at all. It's just annoying since it worked fine 3 weeks ago when I drove it last. I forgot to mention that the doors are from a 1990 F-250, but I dont imagine that makes much difference. If I remove the motor to get the window down, will it go all the way down into the bottom of the door or is there some stopping point that will keep it where it would normally sit. I figure I can just put a bar or something inside the door to hold it up after I am done.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Niceville, FL.
I think it goes pretty far down so the to edge of the glass is below the beltline. I cut two short pieces of PVC pipe- one to hold it where the glass was in the normal down position-the other fully up. Usually when the motor itself quits it's the brushes worn out.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
Plastic window motor gear
If the motor runs but nothing happens, the plastic gear has stripped, very common for that to occur.
DOAZ62234A24B .. Plastic Gear / MSRP: $31.60 / ftepartsguy.com price: $22.75
Fits: 1970/90 passenger cars / 1980/90 Bronco's / 1981/90 F100/350's.
The gear kit is also available from autoparts stores, but there are two different types...you want the "late" kit...this one.
The early kit is a different part number and only fits 1965/69 cars.
DOAZ62234A24B .. Plastic Gear / MSRP: $31.60 / ftepartsguy.com price: $22.75
Fits: 1970/90 passenger cars / 1980/90 Bronco's / 1981/90 F100/350's.
The gear kit is also available from autoparts stores, but there are two different types...you want the "late" kit...this one.
The early kit is a different part number and only fits 1965/69 cars.
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Take a hammer and peck the motor They do tend to stick
I had a 92 and did this a couple of times till I got a motor put in
I had a 92 and did this a couple of times till I got a motor put in
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Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,658
Likes: 5
From: Out of here
To remove the motor, you have to drill out 3 1/4 inch rivits, not 1/2 inch holes. The motor is attatched to the window regulator.
Power windows are nice to have, but nothing beats good old manual cranks. You can always roll them up/down and you don't have to worry about switches, wiring, dead battery, etc.
One of the reasons I took my power windows and locks out when I swapped my doors.
Power windows are nice to have, but nothing beats good old manual cranks. You can always roll them up/down and you don't have to worry about switches, wiring, dead battery, etc.
One of the reasons I took my power windows and locks out when I swapped my doors.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Niceville, FL.
1983 Ford Shop Manual quote:" 4. Check inside the door to make sure that electrical wires are not inline with holes to be drilled in the door inner panel. Using a 1/2 inch diameter drill bit drill two holes in the door inner panel at the drill dimples located opposite the two unexposed motor drive retainer screws ... 5. Remove the three motor mount retainer screws using two drilled holes and existing larger hole access to screw heads..."
DRILLING OUT THE RIVETS ALLOWS YOU TO REMOVE THE WHOLE LIFT MECHANISM WHICH IS NOT NECESSARY TO CHANGE OUT THE MOTOR/GEARBOX.
DRILLING OUT THE RIVETS ALLOWS YOU TO REMOVE THE WHOLE LIFT MECHANISM WHICH IS NOT NECESSARY TO CHANGE OUT THE MOTOR/GEARBOX.
FTE Legend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 53,995
Likes: 2,399
From: NY and VA
Been there done that. Easiest is to drill the holes (I use a spot weld cutter). This allows easy access to the 5/16" wrench size bolts. Motor will come right out. I have found that sometimes the brushes will stick in the holder a light sanding helps to free them up. Motor from Crown Vic/Grand Marquis will also work (LF-RR the same except for length of wires) If motor turns and makes a bunch of noises I have found that sometimes the rollers between the plastic gear and the window regulator gear, are shot. Replacements readily avail. from parts stores - just be sure to clean out all debris. Having a few CV/GM and help prepping a few demo cars has enabled me to stockpile enough motors fo quite a few vehicles.