back in the fold for a while
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 549
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From: Mississippi
back in the fold for a while
hey, y'all, i'm back for a while. digging was good until trackhoe decided to start running hot and i can't figure it out. i know it's off track, so to speak, but maybe somebody can give me some ideas here. the engine is a 4 cyl diesel of some description, maybe a nissan and it has the radiator sandwiched in between the fan and the hydraulic cooler. everything is clear and both coolers are new, fluids are good. i'm at a loss of where to look and it's making me crazy not being able to work more than 20 to 30 minutes at a time. any ideas????
speedrdr
speedrdr
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Guymon
Is the water pump any good or can you tell if you have good coolant flow. Reason I ask is because I have seen 1 (and only one) where the water pump come apart inside. The vains or fins that are pressed onto the shaft had come loose. I also had another water pump again only 1 where all the pumps fins where wore down and it was just almost a spinning disk. That was on a 1990s Jeep with an inline 6, It had been ran with what appeard to be sand in the cooling system and I think thats what ate the fins away. Just tossing Ideas Out there. I would also definitly check that thermostate like plc posted. Seems to be the easiest and cheapest to start with. Did it just all of the sudden try to over heat or did it gradually take a few days and got worse?
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 549
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From: Mississippi
after we had the rad replaced and the hydraulic cooler it was running beautifully. the pump is working because when you take the cap off, you can see coolant flowing. not sure, but it might just be the thermostat sticking. hadn't thought about that yet. it's not obvious and sometimes i tend to focus on what is seen immediately. will check that out before i smoke the engine. it's kind of odd because when it starts heating up the engine will losse power and i can sit and let it idle for 10 or 20 seconds and it will pick back up. it's almost like the fuel filter is stopping up, but i didn't think that would make a diesel overheat.
speedrdr
speedrdr
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From: KY
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: houma, louisiana
ive been running machines for about 12years now, and ive seen in many acassions that the serpentine belt would slip and cause the fan to not spin as fast as its supposed to and not give you any sign of a problem. change the belt and wah lah fixed. you would think that it would squeal and let you know but not all the time
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
We are having a problem like this with our 304 Cat.
It all started with the oil cooler breaking, covering everything with hydraulic fluid.
About drove us nuts with overheating, the oil was catching dirt blocking the radiator.
Right after that, the starter died, probably from heat.
After several rounds of degreaser, the radiator stayed clean, but the temp is still running high.
I want to change the fan belt, but that is a job with all the guards and location in the machine.
I do believe there is enough oil soaked into the fan belt that it is not spinning the fan like it should.
It all started with the oil cooler breaking, covering everything with hydraulic fluid.
About drove us nuts with overheating, the oil was catching dirt blocking the radiator.
Right after that, the starter died, probably from heat.
After several rounds of degreaser, the radiator stayed clean, but the temp is still running high.
I want to change the fan belt, but that is a job with all the guards and location in the machine.
I do believe there is enough oil soaked into the fan belt that it is not spinning the fan like it should.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 478
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From: houma, louisiana
ive been through those problems a hundred times. those machines run non stop all day long sucking every partical of dust through the radiator that it can grab. the dust will even build up on the very edge of the fan blades and cause it to not put out enough air like it is supposed to. ive even learned that if you wash a radiator on one of those machines, to wash it late in the evening after all the work is done and so it can sit all night and dry. water and dust just doesnt go to good together.
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 679
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From: Vancouver B.C.
most of the time when the machine's I operate overheat it caused by dust/dirt in the rad or if equipped, the screen infront of the rad...a dirty or plugged airfilter can also cause an overheating problem. I operate a cat 385 and we're always blowing out the rad w/compressed air to keep the temps down.Most but not all excavators have a indicator light for a pluged air filter but I've seen a couple plug up to the point that it causes the thing to run hot, might also be a cause of your loss of power. if all of those things check out then the t-stat would be the next thing followed by maybe the water pump...dont think you'd get even 5 mins of run time if it wasn't working though. never seen or heard of the belt slipping and causing overheating but sounds plausible...maybe its time to upgrade to a cat...lol
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
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From: Danville, Pa
Does that fan couple direct the the motor, or is a gear box used? Does it smoke any/easier when getting into it. Does the engine get louder?
I'd definately check the thermostat and hoses first. If they're not it, bunp the throttle down 500 and keep working, does it cool down and keep going? Or still loose power and overheat.
Another thing to consider. What was the condition of fluid and radiator prior to removal?
Hang on a sec, you said it goes oil cooler--> radiator--> fan. Heres one for ya. If the hydraulic pump or some part of the system is malfunctioning, it will cause massive overheating of the oil. A failing pump, clogged filter, relief valve, spool valve, cyl, etc. could all cause this. That heat is then transfered to the coolant, causing the engine to overheat.
Do the hydraulics act/sound any different? Loss of power, travel speed, turntable? Had anything happened to the machine prior? Bad/wrong fuel? Rollover?
I'd definately check the thermostat and hoses first. If they're not it, bunp the throttle down 500 and keep working, does it cool down and keep going? Or still loose power and overheat.
Another thing to consider. What was the condition of fluid and radiator prior to removal?
Hang on a sec, you said it goes oil cooler--> radiator--> fan. Heres one for ya. If the hydraulic pump or some part of the system is malfunctioning, it will cause massive overheating of the oil. A failing pump, clogged filter, relief valve, spool valve, cyl, etc. could all cause this. That heat is then transfered to the coolant, causing the engine to overheat.
Do the hydraulics act/sound any different? Loss of power, travel speed, turntable? Had anything happened to the machine prior? Bad/wrong fuel? Rollover?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
The one I was talking about is a Cat.
When I build retaining walls I use a Cat 304 to set the blocks, 4 at a time with a picker I made.
Lifting 400 pounds with one finger sure beats lifting them by hand one at a time.
Right now we have a bid out on setting 140,000 blocks.
That works out to almost 12 million pounds of Keystone blocks.
When I build retaining walls I use a Cat 304 to set the blocks, 4 at a time with a picker I made.
Lifting 400 pounds with one finger sure beats lifting them by hand one at a time.
Right now we have a bid out on setting 140,000 blocks.
That works out to almost 12 million pounds of Keystone blocks.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,701
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From: KY
Hang on a sec, you said it goes oil cooler--> radiator--> fan. Heres one for ya. If the hydraulic pump or some part of the system is malfunctioning, it will cause massive overheating of the oil. A failing pump, clogged filter, relief valve, spool valve, cyl, etc. could all cause this. That heat is then transfered to the coolant, causing the engine to overheat.
I have seen issues like this come up on closed center hydro systems more often then open centers.