UVC/outer connectors are commonly intermittent. They are fine at first start up but within seconds loose contact and starts missing. Some times it will recover sometimes not. I would say its 50/50 whether they are intermittent or complete failure.

 

Well I tried the ford dash unlock link I posted earlier on my 95 7.3 turbo and it doesn't work;it only gives the calibration I guess for tire size and speedo set. My CEL still comes on and the truck runs like S____T until it goes out and the V's build. I'm going to pull batteries and alternator and have them load tested today; batteries are a month old (Interstate) but alternator is the original OEM on truck.Will post updates.

 

I would bet you that if you do what the link above says you will find your problems. I will nearly guarantee it.

 

Willbd

Check out my blog!
then pull each plug to the valve cover and check for oil in the connection.
If you find oil than that's the connection thats burnt one.

Let us know what you find.

 

Finally got the code; had a friend come by with a Cornwell scanner and it pulled - P0341 / CMP sensor circuit performance. I'll pick one up at Ford today and install this weekend. I also will install a new Positive battery cable unit that I got several days ago for this reason: while truck is running I have 14.5V at main cable post and at aux. battery post but only 12V at main battery post; it's not making a clean contact with battery post as that battery was load tested and it is OK ( 1 month old Interstate). I will advise when install is complete and problem solved.

 

Well got the CMP sensor and new positive battery cable unit installed and problem is sorta fixed. I have constant voltage running (14.5-15) at battery terminal and post (FIXED) and the CEL finally disappeared after 20 minutes of driving but the rough idle off and engine just shutting down is still present. Pulled it in the garage this morning and started pulling UVCH plugs and checking readings according to Tim's post. The very first one I pulled (cyl 1,3) smelled burnt and readings were OL on pin 1. I went on and checked all the others and they checked OK so I pulled valve cover and their was my PROBLEM LOOKING RIGHT AT ME; burnt at pin 1 for glow plug #3. I'll be replacing both harnesses, 4 glow plugs and 1 valve cover gasket this week and again, FTE has saved me again.

 

Post back when done and let us know how the beast runs ... good job on troubleshooting.

 

Well I got my new parts installed today; glow plugs, harnesses and v/c gskt and I still have the same problem. Truck will idle fine in the yard, for about 10 minutes then it will go rough and shut down. I can refire and CEL is on and if I don't touch pedal when volts build after delay, engine will shut down but if I throttle it and volts build it will run rough for a second then CEL will go out and it will idle fine. I can rev it through the RPM band and engine sounds OK but after awhile it will shut down. On the road it runs fine then it goes rough and wants to shut down but playing with the pedal smooths it out but it does return to rough.
When I scanned for codes last week it gave ( cam sensor performance) in which I replaced the sensor. What would performance mean if sensor was not bad? The sensor I installed had the silver brkt but the one I removed had the gold brkt; is there a difference?
My P/stroke is not my daily driver anymore so it's no rush to repair but I've got to figure this problem out.

 

Did you check both valve cover gaskets?

 

[QUOTE=stroker393;6321165]Well got the CMP sensor and new positive battery cable unit installed and problem is sorta fixed. I have constant voltage running (14.5-15) at battery terminal and post (FIXED) and the CEL finally disappeared after 20 minutes of driving but the rough idle off and engine just shutting down is still present. Pulled it in the garage this morning and started pulling UVCH plugs and checking readings according to Tim's post. The very first one I pulled (cyl 1,3) smelled burnt and readings were OL on pin 1. I went on and checked all the others and they checked OK so I pulled valve cover and their was my PROBLEM LOOKING RIGHT AT ME; burnt at pin 1 for glow plug #3. I'll be replacing both harnesses, 4 glow plugs and 1 valve cover gasket this week and again, FTE has saved me again.

I checked all 4 top plugs on valve covers before starting repairs; one burnt pin on plug (cyl 1,3) - all others checked OK with ohm meter. It seems to run rougher now on the road than before. This has got my stumped.

 

Did some more searching this morning to try and find my problem; checked wiring harness fom v/c's to glow plug relay. I found no burnt areas but the GPR was cracked in the back where you couldn't see it and the 12v terminal stud in the unit was loose (could move back and forth). After pulling the GPR off I found that it was toast; that stud just pulled right out. Would this be the solution fix to all my problems or just another repair toward the main issue? When I get the new one installed and wiring rewrapped I'll post with results.

 

Installed GPR this morning, fired right up with no CEL, drove it 20 minutes at highway speeds and then home. Idled in d/way for 5 minutes and then STALLED; I still have the problem. I removed fuel filter and cleaned screen,replaced top and fired it up. Truck is running worse than ever now after doing this so I decided to remove fuel filter again and check. When I opened the drain lever no fuel came out of drain hose but as loosened the filter top it finally drained. I reinstalled filter,fired it up,CEL came on but after running rough a second it goes out and idle is back to OK. I really fill like I have a fuel delivery problem or do I. I've replaced:

cam sensor
rt side v/c gskt
4 glow plugs
2 harnesses under v/c
alternator
positive battery cable unit
GP relay

all parts were bad but truck is still not normal and it's got me puzzled. Someone give me some ideas on where to look and figure this out - I haven't given up yet.