Motor shuts down.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Motor shuts down.
Guy's,
I have a 1986 f250 460 with new/rebuilt engine. I have problem that sound much same as prior post titled "What the Heck?". Truck runs fine until it starts to get hot then shuts down. No stumble like running out of fuel. It cuts off abruptly and it is OFF. It will turn over and lighting works. Seems like ignition module is failing. After waiting for a while I have been able to restart and limp home. Here is the kicker, I am running a new GM style HEI dizzy. Only have a power wire and tach wire to distributor. The plug from stock fender mount ignition module which used to h/u to stock distributor is unplugged. The rest of the wire harness is connected to stock ignition module. Could the old module still be the culpret? Most of the wires and connectors to and from the module are still hooked up. Thanks
I have a 1986 f250 460 with new/rebuilt engine. I have problem that sound much same as prior post titled "What the Heck?". Truck runs fine until it starts to get hot then shuts down. No stumble like running out of fuel. It cuts off abruptly and it is OFF. It will turn over and lighting works. Seems like ignition module is failing. After waiting for a while I have been able to restart and limp home. Here is the kicker, I am running a new GM style HEI dizzy. Only have a power wire and tach wire to distributor. The plug from stock fender mount ignition module which used to h/u to stock distributor is unplugged. The rest of the wire harness is connected to stock ignition module. Could the old module still be the culpret? Most of the wires and connectors to and from the module are still hooked up. Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
From: KFalls
Maybe the HEI unit is drawing too much power and causeing the moduel to overheat? its probably designed to shut down before it totally fries. you should try using an aftermarket ignition box that is designed for high energy sysytems.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,980
Likes: 2,735
From: Virginia
Run a temporary wire from the battery to the distributor, and then go for a test ride. If it's ok, then there is something in the wiring. If it still cuts off, I would suspect not enough heat grease under the module, or a failing module.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,558
Likes: 69
From: New Zealand
I have an almost identical situation with a 351W, except it doesn't seem to be heat related - it can die after just a minute at idle, then usually start again in a few more minutes, & give no more trouble for the day. But it will often try to start upon releasing the key back to the 'run' position. Like yours, complete cut-out; replacement distributor & module, & also has old module partially wired still.
I've put a thread in the Electrical/Wiring forum - "Troublesome ignition" with details & photos of the replacement dist. & box in case anyone has any ideas
I've put a thread in the Electrical/Wiring forum - "Troublesome ignition" with details & photos of the replacement dist. & box in case anyone has any ideas
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,980
Likes: 2,735
From: Virginia
I have an almost identical situation with a 351W, except it doesn't seem to be heat related - it can die after just a minute at idle, then usually start again in a few more minutes, & give no more trouble for the day. But it will often try to start upon releasing the key back to the 'run' position. Like yours, complete cut-out; replacement distributor & module, & also has old module partially wired still.
I've put a thread in the Electrical/Wiring forum - "Troublesome ignition" with details & photos of the replacement dist. & box in case anyone has any ideas
I've put a thread in the Electrical/Wiring forum - "Troublesome ignition" with details & photos of the replacement dist. & box in case anyone has any ideas
My position on your problem right now is; it sounds like you have the incorrect Ford distributor and ignition system in your truck, and I would not spend any more time or money on it, since the truck is not going to run right if you do get it to where it won't cut off.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,330
Likes: 17
From: Dryden, ON, Canada
You can see them because they are in your computer's cache, we cannot because you removed them from your gallery.
Trending Topics
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,558
Likes: 69
From: New Zealand
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Thanks guys,
I replace ignition module and restarted engine. I started to wiggle wire harness around and found when I moved wires going to distributor it would shut off. Dang power wire and tach wire have spade type connections (uninsulated) they were touching intermitantly and shorting out the ignition! Problem solved. Thanks again.
I replace ignition module and restarted engine. I started to wiggle wire harness around and found when I moved wires going to distributor it would shut off. Dang power wire and tach wire have spade type connections (uninsulated) they were touching intermitantly and shorting out the ignition! Problem solved. Thanks again.