Hi Everyone need help trying to solve misfire on number 4 piston. Have replace and double checked wires plugs cap rotor. Is there a way to find out if it is a valve problem or is it maybe the carb 2 barrel. Would like to stay with the 352 but it has several issues. first the misfire on #4 piston. It leaks oil from the rear main seal and If i solve the shaking (misfire) I think it also knocks. It also has low oil pressure.

The truck is driveable but with these issues? It is a 4 speed.
Please help and thank you

 

Sounds like a burned valve, a not uncommon malady in engines of this era/age.

A compression test will tell the tale. A burned valve will register almost no cylinder pressure, and when you repeat the test after squirting oil in there to help seal the rings, you will see little, if any, increase in pressure.

Do you hear a "puffing" sound in the exhaust?

If not a burned valve, it could also be a rounded cam, bent pushrod, collapsed lifter, broken rocker, perhaps a couple of other issues. You have to pull the valve covers and turn the engine over to see if everything is moving correctly & not broken to check this.

If the carb is bad, it will cause a misfire on more than one cylinder.

Rear main leak: You may be able to repair just dropping the pan and rear main IF this engine uses a two piece seal. Otherwise, you have to pull the trans and flywheel. Check the parts folks to see what the stock part is.

Low oil pressure? Define "low". 5-10 psi @ idle, 20-30 running is ok.

Knock? They don't get better... If you pull the pan, you can check the main & rod bearings. If there is no damage or visible wear to the crank & rod, you can replace the bearing shells. This may help the oil pressure some.

BUT, AND A BIG ONE AT THAT: If your engine has all these issues, it pretty much points to an overhaul being in order. If you redo the heads, the refound compression will add stress to the already knocking lower end. If you replace the bearing shells, what if the oil supply to that bearing was compromised--the next failure will probably be a spun bearing, as the new one doesn't have the slop in it that keeps the old one alive...

OR:

You can drive it with all those issues. How far, you'll just have to find out.

If it were me, and this was a hobby truck, I would rebuild it myself to better than stock specs. I think you may be able to buy a long block rebuilt engine for about $1800 or so. I googled and found this on page one:

http://www.powerpro2000.com/lb_ford.htm

You'll mostly, if not entirely, find your replacement will be the 360.

Good luck.

 

Will start with testing everything first. Thank you for all your info. Will post future results.

Thank you again.

 

Will start with testing everything first. Thank you for all your info. Will post future results.

Thank you again.

Quick question? I bought this truck for 700 and I am wondering if I got a good deal. It has many new parts but still needs plenty of work. It did drive pretty good and straight. Shifted great. Has a 4Speed. Would make me feel better if I got a good deal.

 

Just about anything running is going to be $500-1000.

Body good? Tires, brakes?

After you fix the motor, are you going to have a driver?

I can't judge your purchase, only raise an endless stream of questions.

If it's motor only, or if it's more than that, you'll have to see if it matches your plan for the truck.

Check out the FE forums for endless discussions about the engines.

Anyway, see what you have in the motor dept, post and we will bombard you with more suggestions.

Good luck.

 

I want it for work. The transmission has been rebuilt. It has one area with rust maybe 2 inches. The seat needs replacing. Windows and glass are excellent. It has all its trim. I will primer it black. Set some nice none expensive rims and maybe some little extras, but nothing major.
I will start will motor. The spark plug is now getting wet with oil so I guess its the rings.
I will go from there.