Here goes... I just finished swapping out the blown 7.3 from my 1998 e-350 limo coach. I installed a junk yard 1997 f-250 engine. Everything is in and now I can't get it to run. I know very little about Ford diesels, actually diesels all together cause I've only owned Dodge diesels and never had to work on them.

I can't find anyone that seemed to be having the same problems on here. Two obvious problems are the wait to start light doesn't come on. Also the initinal check engine light does't come on. I was able to get the wait to start light on by jumping the GPR. I had two different guys with some experence with 7.3 come over and try figuring out what the problem is and they came up with these theories: 1.Clearly the injectors are not being engauged 2.It seems that power is not getting to the computor or possibily also the fuse box under the dash.

I can clearly see that I have an electrical problem. I just don't know where to start to eliminate things and get to the source of the problem. I don't know weither it was something I did wrong on the install or it has something to do with to year difference and F-250 to E-350 conversion. The only difference I came into was the wire harness from the origional engine had 2 extra wires that went to a pigtail on the GPR. Where the F-250 only had the 4 wires on the GPR.

Any help?????????????????????????????????????
Please...

 

Jeremy, I don't know a whole lot about an engine swap as you describe but there are a few guys on this forum that do. I know that the E-van is a similar but different animal in many ways.

Did you get anything else from the donor truck that you got the engine from like the computer? also check the fuses under the hood, on the F-series trucks fuse #22 is a real stopper so you might check that

As far as the GPR goes, when you turn on the ignition you should have power
on both large terminals and then as the GP"s shut down only one terminals will have power.

hopefully MadVan will come on and be of great help as he drives an E-Van. I agree with you I think that your problem is solely electrical.

Good luck

Rog

 

I thought the vans ran ran a GPR controller instead of a reg GPR ...

May need to use the one from the van motor...

 

Your 98 is electric or mech fuel system? (late changed)
Did you transfer all the wiring from the 98 to the 97? Your 98 is a splitshot motor and the 97 is a singleshot (4 gpr wires). The 2 extrawires are for the Gp monitor system. Your 98 should of had a shunt bar on the GPR.
First mission is to see why the WTS lamp is not on.
Get the meter out and test fuses, relays, fuse links as a starter.
Then move onto keyed power to PCM,IDM
The sign of no WTS lamp is a 12v control ckt out, bad ground or bad PCM.

Then you can move on to trying to start.
Fill the HPOP. It should start but will run like crap until you change the injectors or have a chip burned to run the singles.

Come on Rog Test yourself! Iam shure you can find what is up.

Bill

 

testing testing how do you respond to replys?

 

You can use the "QUOTE" button from the post you want to respond to.
Then enter your answer.
Then click "SUBMIT REPLY"

 

NOW IT WORKS... I got signed out for some reason.

Where is the PCM and the IDM located? Where can I get a fuse layout and a wiring diagram?

I am almost positive it is mech fuel system. (I am getting fuel to the filter for sure) I have to completely strip the original engine to come close to getting it out. I then reassembled the 97 with all the original parts including the wire harness that does have to extra pigtail on the GPR. I have to honest though, I did have it wired wrong at first. When I attempted to attach the battety I seen it arked a little so I figured out the correct way and took care of it right away. I don't know if that blew a fuse link or wire to anything, but I cleaned and checked all the fuses and relays under the hood. I am able to get the WTS light to come on if I jump the GPR. If it helps I was told that I am not getting power to half of the fuses under the dash. What fuse links do I test. What is the sign of no check light coming on?

I'm confused why I am having an electrical problem. The engine went down cause of a bad water pump and a retarded driver. The f-250 engine ran perfect before it was pulled from a junkyard. I was just thinking does the 97 have any differences in the injectors or the cilps on the valve cover gaskets cause that is the only thing that makes that engine a 97 f-250.

Thanks again all ford fans! I dont know if it is karma or what, but I am taking the "Rather be cumming than stroking" sticker off my Dodge before leaving the driveway. Right after I clean off the eggs I got delivered by some thought full hood.

 

As Madvan said the '98 has splits shot injectors and the '97 has singles. It will run but to run properly the PCM has to match the injectors. I know a single shot PCM will run splits but not sure if a split shot PCM will run a single shot as in your case.

Not sure on the fusable links I have not heard of any but I would go into it with a test light and go to town. You may need a diagran to help you with this.

 

There's a 5 or 6 fusable links connected to the starter solenoid. IIRC it's located on the RH front corner of engine compartment, near the battery. You might need to remove the battery to get to them.

 

How do I tell if the injectors are different? I have the original injectors visable.

 

what is IIRC?

 

I pluged a scaner in and it read connecting error. Doesn't that mean that the PCM is not getting power or is not working?

 

There's no way to tell by looking unless you take them apart. What is the PCM code on the van? electric or mechanical fuel pump?

 

What scanner did you use? Most of the cheap ones that the parts places sell will not work with A Ford diesel.

 

If I Remember Correctly=IIRC