Ok, admittedly I am no expert on anything. I decided to change my fuel filters for PM purposes. I went step by step and did the key on/off routine, etc. I started the truck and let it idle for a while. It sounded fine for a bit then started idling rough. I cycled the key a couple more times then restarted...same deal. So, the question would be what did I do wrong? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Brad
2003 F-250 4x4 Supercab 6.0L PSD

 

Did you have a hard time getting the on frame filter cover on. Might have it on crooked so gasket isn't sealing or it might not be on tight enough letting air in. It is in a very difficult spot to check.

Did you use a ford filter or a will fit. there have been reports of some problems with will fit filters.

 

I used an OEM filter. I did have to futz around with the frame mounted filter to thread it on right, but I was pretty sure it wasn't cross threaded. The other things that I thought were weird was that the fuel gauge showed empty (has 1/2 tank) and I swore I heard a hissing from the engine compartment or somewhere that I couldn't pinpoint because of the engine noise. It sounded like air rushing out, but I guess that could be air rushing in. I torqued both filter caps to spec. I'm not anxious to pull them both out and start all over again due to the diesel bath I took because of an improperly located drain pan...

Brad
2003 F-250 4x4 Supercab 6.0L PSD

 

I agree it is a nasty job. But if it was running good before the filter change that is where I would look for the problem. One or both gaskets could be not sealing properly. Look around the area where the cap screws on to be sure the O ring didn't come part way off. Use a small mirror to check the back side of casing.

did you drain the filter casing on the frame. Check to be sure the hex nut and O ring is tight.

Sounds like you followed the procedures listed in the 6.0 teck folder.

 

open up both filter housings check o rings

carefully reinstall use a wrench/ratchet to tighten them up
**tight is tight 2 tight is broke

use a light to see the frame mounted filter install - it will help.

 

Make sure the face of the frame mounted filter cap is contacting the filter housing. There should not be a gap between the face of the black cap and housing.

 

I had the same problem before, when I changed my filters, it does not want to run correctly, it was idling very rough and almost dies. I took the filter cap on top of the engine off and it was empty and did not know why, I went under the truck to check the filter on the unit mounted on the frame under the cab to see what is going on. I took the filter off and alot of fuel came out of it, I put it back on and then put the top one back on, still nothing, took the top cap back off and turned the key just for a moment and back off, went back to the engine and looked into the filter housing and saw fuel trying to fill it up, turned the key on and off again, and looked at it and this time, I saw alot of air bubbles coming out of the main feed line and let it set there until it quits, went through the key cycle one more time and then saw no more bubbles again, put the cap back on after the housing is filled with fuel, no more problems since then. I think that when I changed the filters, I was letting air get trapped in it somehow and will not let the pump bring any fuel up to it. That was from my experience so far, I thought you don't have to prime the fuel system after changing filters and I somehow had to prime it.

 

Mine has a gap in it, ever since I bought the truck. I tried to tighten it up, but it is very tight now and will be afraid to break it if I try any more. I tried to put the filter in it different ways to make sure it is seated properly and still ends up with a gap between them, wonder why?

 

Did you lube the O ring with motor oil or vaseline? Do not use diesel fuel, it can cause the O ring to swell.

 

Are you using a torque wrench when you install the filter cap or going by feel? On my rig the thread engagement of the cap with the housing is rough and has a lot of resistance. If went by feel, I'd probably stop before bottoming out the cap onto the housing because the torque required to accomplish this seems excessive (especially when dealing with an aluminum housing and plastic cap). However, by using a torque wrench I just keep cranking until it clicks at the preset torque limit. When I look at the cap/housing gap it's always flush. Can't explain why yours seems to have a gap. But if you're not having leaks or air getting into your fuel supply, then no worries.

 

I used vasoline and put on new o-rings that comes with the filters, and it is still tight with a gap between them. The only thing that I notice that the engine is doing now is that it is running a little smoother now since I changed from NAPA to WIX filters. NAPA filters are supposed to be made by WIX, but the ones that I have been using is not made by WIX.

 

Well, my problem is solved though I couldn't really pinpoint the issue. Both caps were flush and O-rings looked fine. The only thing different is that I swapped out the fuel/water drain plug on the HFCM for some snazzy aftermarket deal that was supposed to "make the process easier". That may have been the cause and it certainly made me get more fuel all over the place vs. the stock plug. Bottom line is..pulled and reinstalled both filters and put original plug back in; runs great now. Thanks for all the input. Oh, and I used diesel not vasoline or oil for lube on the rings. I switched to Bio recently, so I plan on changing them again due to cleansing of sludge purposes before the swelling becomes an issue. Thanks again.

Brad
2003 F-250 4x4 Supercab 6.0L PSD

 

man that could leave you stranded or worse ruin your nozzles..I always change them both and then blead up to the top of the secondary filter w/ the lift pump to ensure no aeration.