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Don't really know how to diagnose this slight problem I am having. When I start her up in the morning and put it in drive, everything works the way it is supposed to. Engine idles according to park and drive positions, but the problem occures after she warms up and I get a slight dip in rpms (about 500 rpm) when I come to a stop and then it creeps back up to around 650 rpm. Truck feels a bit more under load as well when I'm at the lights but shifting through the gears feels normal when I accelerate. Had the fluid changed last year and it still looks very clean without any burnt smell to it.
Could this be a software issue or mechanical like the torque converter? Possible vacuum leak somewhere?
I'll be waiting for you experts to help me troubleshoot this problem.
Edit: Forgot to mention reverse gear is not effected, everyting is normal there hot and cold.
Just did the IAC a couple of days ago....looked clean to begin with but since it was out I scrubbed it out anyways. No change to the situation but thanks.
Did you check the EGR valve while you were cleaning? Might be leaking(not seating). While it's in open loop everything is richer to compensate for engine temperature. Nothing feels like a misfire does it? You didn't include mileage so what are the condition of the vacuum hoses? Reverse I believe has a different set of parameters for engine running when engaged. Are your tunes at fault in your opinion?
Last edited by kaboom10; Jun 20, 2008 at 02:12 PM.
Reason: forgot to mention something.
I am definately thinking it might be a tuner software creating some parameter issues. EGR was inspected while I had the intake off to clean the IAC...look good. When I went to the dealer to pick up a six pack of oil filters I was chatting with a service tech who took my truck for a spin around the block....complimented me on how smooth the truck ran . I have about 80K and the vacuum lines are still very flexible and in good shape.
I'm also thinking me my efan mod might be mucking with the learning strategies of the PCM. Later on I'm going to return my truck to stock tune and disconnect the battery for about an hour to clear anything kept in memory....not getting codes at all but it's worth a try.
I could be on the wrong track for all I know. Just wondering if anyone else out there had a simular problem?
Last edited by xtrford; Jun 20, 2008 at 03:44 PM.
Reason: forgot to mention something else
You don't sound to far fetched to me on your ideas. Try the stock tune to verify your ideas. The electric fan control is one of the parameters in my ECU. It never had one. When elec. fans come on it loads the alternator for additional output and there needs to be additional rpm added to the idle to compensate. Idle control can be gotten with the IAC and spark control. Just like kicking on the A/C.
I tempted the fates and started mucking with my tuner's edit options, set the idle higher by increments of 25 rpm and it still does a slight dip. Might try fiddling with spark advance and such to see if anything can be tweeked there, but I will post my results when I go back to stock and go from there.
The amounts that can be changed with a hand held tuner are safe. They aren't gonna let you put in a ton of spark to hurt your engine. The tuners are generally for modifying a cam change or intake/exhaust change. I bought the PRP package from SCT to be able to go in and custom tune my truck.
Well, found out (finally) what my low surge idle was and it was mostly stupidity on my part. In never checked my fluid levels after my engine came to normal operating temps because I assumed the Ford dealership did the flush job properly half a year ago.....I was almost 2 quarts low. I was also developing a slight slip from stop to go was the weather was really hot outside....just assumed my tranny was starting to go. My idle drop is gone and so is the slipping...I'm hoping nothing was damaged during that last six months of driving.
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